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OEM GM head bolts.. good enough?

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Old 04-12-2006, 03:38 PM
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Default OEM GM head bolts.. good enough?

Simple question, how well do OEM GM head bolts do in ~400whp applications? I'm putting together a new motor for the Firechicken and I'm not sure that it really warrants the use of something like ARP's for a simple H/C setup, plus I like the idea of OEM equipment on the car where possible.

Your thoughts?
Old 04-12-2006, 03:41 PM
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What kinda CR are u gong to be running.
Old 04-12-2006, 03:44 PM
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I run them. However I am just Cam only. But OEMs have been used time and time again with little to no reprocautions(sp?). Hell, is the new LS7 using ARPs? Not that I have seen. I think that as long as your staying N/A you should be good to go. And make sure you clean out the bolt holes COMPLETELY! But, thats just my .02

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Old 04-12-2006, 03:45 PM
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I say go with arp... You can use them over and over and dont have to worry about the 90* turns and stuff..
Old 04-12-2006, 03:45 PM
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Well, it's a stock LS1 bottom with CnC'd LS6 heads from TSP, they aren't decked so it should be the stock cc volume (62cc I think it is?). So whats that about 10.7-10.8:1?
Old 04-12-2006, 03:51 PM
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Stock head bolts work, but spending the extra 130 bucks or so might be worth it.
I have used ARP quite a few times and have been happy with them, plus you can reuse them.
Old 04-12-2006, 03:55 PM
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I went ARP only because they were on the shelf at East Side Performance and I didn't want to wait for my GM bolts to come in.. that was the only part I needed for the install to be finished. Their stance (ESP's) was the same as mine: I was getting the GM bolts as part of a deal with my heads purchase, but if you're going to pay for new GM bolts, fork over the extra change and go w/ ARP. Less of a PITA to install and the reusability - they'll pay for themselves. They said with my application though (418whp SAE) they'd be plenty, and they had customers run 500whp on oem bolts.
Old 04-12-2006, 03:58 PM
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Well.. that being said. ..where are you guys geting your ARP's?
Old 04-12-2006, 04:27 PM
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If you plan on taking the heads off, go with the ARP's, particularly the studs as theyll make matters much easier for you. If you dont plan on doing heads again anytime soon, stick with the GM bolts. Theyre plenty. They work fine for my setup, and have worked flawlessly on much more advances setups as well.
Old 04-12-2006, 04:49 PM
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Thunder racing/TSP
I might even have a set laying around if your in Naples.
I know it says Miami, but I thought I say you at SFFBA.net the other day and it said naples.
If you need a set fast then let me peak around, otherwise TR/TSP are sponsors and will take good care of you.
Old 04-12-2006, 08:02 PM
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I'm using ARP studs/bolts wherever possible on my stroker re-build. The OEM head bolts aren't really the core problem; it's the fact that the LSx heads have only 4 bolts/cylinder that somewhat compromises clamp strength. OEM TTY bolts were designed to stretch uniformly, to provide as much consistent clamping force as possible, and still be inexpensive to manufacture. I don't really HATE OEM TTY fasteners, but the goofy degree wheel you have to use, and the fact that they are one-time-use-only, kind of turns me off.

In most reasonable heads/cam/intake upgrades, they are perfectly adequate...it's when you start getting into the hairy-chested, forced-induction stuff that you have to be careful. But, here again, it's not really any strength/design shortcoming of the TTY bolt...it's the limiting factor of having just 4 bolts/cylinder that is the real culprit.

And don't forget, just because you're buying VERY strong, steel, aftermarket fasteners, you're STILL torquing them into tapped aluminum holes. A tapped aluminum hole will not take anywhere NEAR the torque you can apply to a tapped/single point chased thread cut into steel, or cast iron. Even the steel main bearing saddles bolt up to tapped, aluminum holes. Well, 4 of 'em do, anyway. The puny side bolts get torqued to just 18 ft/lbs.

The LSx series is truly an outstanding cam-in-block engine design. People make insane amounts of power with these all-aluminum bad-boys all the time...until they see what an LQ series block will support.....
Old 04-12-2006, 08:19 PM
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I went with the OEM bolts on my setup but if the heads are ever off again i'm going with ARP studs. Makes the swap sooo much easier and you don't have to worry about cleaning coolant out of the holes!!! I have the ARP studs on my 360ci SBC Marine engine and they are the **** my friend!
Old 04-12-2006, 08:41 PM
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"....and you don't have to worry about cleaning coolant out of the holes!!!"

Well, the stud does get installed hand-tight, so I suppose you don't have to worry about compressing any liquid remaining in the bottoms of the "blind" head bolt holes. This applies to studs only...so, be careful guys...if you're using head BOLTS, you MUST blow out the blind-tapped head bolt holes until they are dry. Torquing a bolt into a blind-tapped hole that still has liquid in the bottom, WILL crack the block.

I have read that removing heads while the engine is still in the car, is harder to do when studs are used, as opposed to bolts. I'm still trying to figure that one out in my head. You still have to get a wrench on the stud cap, just like you would a bolt. I wonder if it has anything to do with having to use an allen wrench, also?

Does anyone know if this is true, and, if so, why?
Old 04-12-2006, 08:51 PM
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they are probably talking about trying to lift the heads over the studs without removing the studs,i can see where that would be a problem.
Old 04-12-2006, 09:07 PM
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Sounds reasonable to me....thanks.
Old 04-12-2006, 09:59 PM
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Well, the stud does get installed hand-tight, so I suppose you don't have to worry about compressing any liquid remaining in the bottoms of the "blind" head bolt holes. This applies to studs only...so, be careful guys...if you're using head BOLTS, you MUST blow out the blind-tapped head bolt holes until they are dry. Torquing a bolt into a blind-tapped hole that still has liquid in the bottom, WILL crack the block.
Your more than right but I was referring to after the studs were installed and say you needed to pull the heads again....
Old 04-12-2006, 10:40 PM
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I would go with ARP just for the rating on the damn things! You really cant go wrong with them as far as a rockin' fastener is concerned.
Old 04-13-2006, 04:07 PM
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Well.. I guess I'm convinced. I have no intention on lifting these heads again, but it's a cheap insurance in the long run eh? I'll have to head over to a few sponsors and pick some up. Thanks for the input!
Old 04-13-2006, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by JZ'sTA
Thunder racing/TSP
I might even have a set laying around if your in Naples.
I know it says Miami, but I thought I say you at SFFBA.net the other day and it said naples.

Yea I keep forgeting to change that, I'm in Naples actually heh.




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