New Motor Installed, Tach Doesn't Work, and Motor won't Rev
09-13-2006, 08:32 PM
#1
New Motor Installed, Tach Doesn't Work, and Motor won't Rev Just got the new motor in and it started up okay. But first, the tachometer doesn't work, bad sensor, wiring? I was VERY careful with all of the sensors when putting them back in. Also, the engine won't rev past what I guess to be about 1000rpm. Not sure if its a tuning or mechanical issue. Seems like it might be running to rich. Any ideas? Thanks.
09-13-2006, 10:21 PM
#4
Well I checked the crank position sensor and it looks good, the wiring looks good as well.
I will check the cam position sensor tomarrow, that requires removing the intake, but I'm 95% sure I plugged it in. Is it possible that the engine not revving and the tach not working are related? I wonder if the car is in gimp mode because of a bad sensor somewhere.
I will check the cam position sensor tomarrow, that requires removing the intake, but I'm 95% sure I plugged it in. Is it possible that the engine not revving and the tach not working are related? I wonder if the car is in gimp mode because of a bad sensor somewhere.
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09-14-2006, 01:01 PM
#10
Out of curiosity I checked to see if the cam triggers are centered over the camshaft position sensor hole and they are. I've heard that that might be a problem.
If I recall, when I took the stock block out of the car, I left most of the sensors on it when I washed it. I used a hose to wash the block and I remember that I got a straight shot of water right at the cam sensor on accident, and thinking I hope I didn't mess it up. Is it possible that water got inside and fried it? Thanks!
If I recall, when I took the stock block out of the car, I left most of the sensors on it when I washed it. I used a hose to wash the block and I remember that I got a straight shot of water right at the cam sensor on accident, and thinking I hope I didn't mess it up. Is it possible that water got inside and fried it? Thanks!
09-14-2006, 02:49 PM
#11
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Did the cam sensor wires somehow get switched? This will cause the tach not to work as well....
Get a Tech 2 (GM scan tool) and do a gauge sweep to make sure the gauge is good. Usually the whole cluster will go out, if one or two gauges are out it usually is a wiring issue.
Keep us posted.
Get a Tech 2 (GM scan tool) and do a gauge sweep to make sure the gauge is good. Usually the whole cluster will go out, if one or two gauges are out it usually is a wiring issue.
Keep us posted.
09-14-2006, 03:16 PM
#12
Well I got a new cam sensor and will install it soon. I don't see anyway the wiring could have gotten switched. The only wiring I did was lengthening the MAP sensor wiring to the front of the intake. Yes I lengthened the MAP sensor and not the cam position sensor. IIRC, the MAP sensor is a grey connector while the cam position connector is black. Both are three wire, but they are not interchangeable.
09-14-2006, 05:07 PM
#14
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have you tried to rev it by hand? ie grabbing the throttle body and opening the blade?
is it possible you got the big metal piece on wrong on the crankshaft.. it would give it a bad reading if you had it on wrong.. know what im saying? i have no real idea what it could be though.
is it possible you got the big metal piece on wrong on the crankshaft.. it would give it a bad reading if you had it on wrong.. know what im saying? i have no real idea what it could be though.
09-14-2006, 05:55 PM
#15
Throttle body works fine, I can open it up all the way and it still won't rev any higher. I'm also thinking the reluctor wheel might be off. Seeing that Eagle made the crank, it wouldn't suprise me the least. The problem is, there's no easy way to check that. There isn't enough room to look through the hole at the wheel.
09-14-2006, 07:56 PM
#16
Well I got a scan tool from Autozone and got three codes...
P0107 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Circuit Low Input
P0336 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0405 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit Low
The MAP code is probably due to the fact that I had to extend the wires to the front of the manifold, I probably screwed up this process, or there might be too much resistance in the crimps I made.
The crankshaft position code has me VERY worried. I'm not sure how to interpret this code. I'm guessing the reluctor wheel is off a little bit and perhaps a crank position re-learn needs to be done. Any ideas?
The EGR code is obvious, I got rid of it
P0107 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Circuit Low Input
P0336 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0405 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit Low
The MAP code is probably due to the fact that I had to extend the wires to the front of the manifold, I probably screwed up this process, or there might be too much resistance in the crimps I made.
The crankshaft position code has me VERY worried. I'm not sure how to interpret this code. I'm guessing the reluctor wheel is off a little bit and perhaps a crank position re-learn needs to be done. Any ideas?
The EGR code is obvious, I got rid of it
09-14-2006, 09:02 PM
#18
Louis, I inspected my MAP wiring and one of the crimps has come loose. I cut the crimps off and soldered them instead. I then plugged it back in and cleared all the codes. I started it back up and runs exactly the same, like ****, instead this time there was no MAP trouble code, but the crankshaft position code had come back. The car wreaks of gas when it's running, smokes a lot too.
