half-n-half

iTrader: (7)

anyone have any info for me on how i can pull the oil pan and change my rod bolts and rod bearing with the engine in the car?

Please let me know, thanks

Louie

half-n-half

iTrader: (7)

anyone have the info on how to change the bolts and bearing with the engine in the car?

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

I would not recomend changing the bearings with the motor in the car. The block needs to come out and a couple of parts need to be measured to make sure theyre not out of round and what not.

half-n-half

iTrader: (7)

but is it possible to at least check and see what is bad down there?

is it even possible to get the pan out with the engine in the car?

that is mainly what i am askin i guess...if i see that the crank is scored etc i completely realize that i will have to pull it out and make sure that all is well..

Thanks

Louie

NC98Z

iTrader: (1)

Buy you a shortblock. You'll come out ahead.

half-n-half

iTrader: (7)

no info on seeing the bearings or pulling the pan with the engine still in car?

dont you guys change the rod bolts with the engine still in the car?

Let me know

thanks
Louie

BlackBirdSS

Someone must have done this before???

Anyone???

I saw two posts but they were on a LT-1. Does anyone have specific instructions? How many bolts on the K-Member? How many engine mount bolts? Etc...

I am asking b/c I have a 98' Trans Am and I want to remove the pan this weekend...

Thanks

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (13)

There's no easy way to remove the pan on the car. The engine has to be lifted off the k-member and even then it's a bitch to get off and get at the bottom end. It's much easier to just drop the entire k-member/engine and do it the right way.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

+1. You'll have hell otherwise.

95 Z28

iTrader: (21)

I did my rod bolts with the engine in. You have to drop the K and jack up the engine to get the pan to slid out the back. When you're in there, just do the bolts one at a time. I haven't had a problem.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

But he wants to replace the bearings.

Randy WS6

iTrader: (69)

I have removed my oil pan a few times while it was in the car. All you need to do in unbolt the motor mounts 2 bolts, and sway bar 2 bolts ,then unbolt the K-member (3 bolts on each side) pretty easy to do. The k-member will drop about 3"to 6" ,but will not fall out. remove the steering arm from the rack unit. 2 bolts for it. unbolt the exhaust pipes from the manifolds,3 bolts on each side. support the engine from the top or bottom witch is easiest for you. This will give you enough room to drop the pan and pass by the flywheel and rotate the engine were the front counter weight is at the top so when you pull the pan i wont hang between the K-member and counter weight.

00SSLS1

iTrader: (7)

not sure on the bearings but we've done the rod bolts on a buddies car. Dropped the K-member and supported engine from the top

BadBandit69

iTrader: (13)

wow thread resurrected

BlackBirdSS

How do you recommend supporting the motor with a jack? The pan had to slide toward the back of the car when removing it right? So you couldn't put the jack on the transmission right?

Do you need to support the K Frame while unbolting it?

95 Z28

iTrader: (21)

Wow, this is an old thread...I didn't notice before, oh well.

I've had my pan out twice. It's much easier if you use a hoist to get the engine up. When lowering the K, I didn't support it. I really didn't see the need to. The front bolts on each side of the K I only backed out a few turns, so it wasn't going anywhere.

BlackBirdSS

Hey what's wrong with old threads? Lol. I thought everyone on the forum promoted going out and searching before asking the question?

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Good point.

ShortChevy

iTrader: (21)

I thought the general connsense (SP) was you can't do the bearings without machine work because of the cracked rod cap texture...?

john563

iTrader: (17)

I dunno ,but last year I had my rod bolts done with Katechs..My buddy who owns a shop said he could swap out the bearings with clevites too..
He did with the engine still in the car.I've had no problems either..I even swapped out my tr224 for much larger cam and many dyno/wot pulls..
I dont know how long it took,but he said it was a P.I.T.A ,but he did for me for next to nothing as a favor..Normally he would tell customers they are just better off rebuilding instead of going through all that..I was on a 1 wk vacation when he did it so I dont know how long it took

The clevites were the P series I believe which are stock replacements..I'll double check I still have the old boxes they came in with my old bearings in them