rod bolts
#2
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You have to loosen the K member. Place a block of wood on a jack and slightly lift the engine at the front of the block just behind the crank. There is a perfect place that will fit a 2x4 perfectly. Take pressure off the motor mounts and undo them. From there u can jack up the engine a little and or lower the cradle a little more. 6 bolts total. Then pull the pan.
#6
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Mine was 3 simple steps:
1) Order rod bolts from Katech
2) Drop car off at Tick Performance in Mount Airy, NC
3) Pick car up with rod bolts installed.
Haven't had any problems.
1) Order rod bolts from Katech
2) Drop car off at Tick Performance in Mount Airy, NC
3) Pick car up with rod bolts installed.
Haven't had any problems.
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#8
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Originally Posted by JoeyAnderson
Mine was 3 simple steps:
1) Order rod bolts from Katech
2) Drop car off at Tick Performance in Mount Airy, NC
3) Pick car up with rod bolts installed.
Haven't had any problems.
1) Order rod bolts from Katech
2) Drop car off at Tick Performance in Mount Airy, NC
3) Pick car up with rod bolts installed.
Haven't had any problems.
#10
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Originally Posted by SLP4CamaroSS
not goign to replace all that stuff man lol
but i mean what do i know
#14
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The Katechs or Lingenfelters are what most are running on this board. I've read with ARP's you can screw something up relatively easy. Because you have to enlarge the rod bolt holes, I think. I would try and find the thread but search isn't working for me.
#15
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ARP says that you need to resize your rods, becuase it can make them out of round
katech says that you remove ferruls and put their rod bolts in and you are good to go..
guys have used arp rod bolts on here without resizing, but i just bought katechs. if i remeber correctly katechs and lingenfelters are the exact same bolt
katech says that you remove ferruls and put their rod bolts in and you are good to go..
guys have used arp rod bolts on here without resizing, but i just bought katechs. if i remeber correctly katechs and lingenfelters are the exact same bolt