wssexorz

iTrader: (5)

Okay i just put in my cam in my trans am ... it was a rough install with a few problems ... this is where i'm at now..

first what i put on the car

TR227/224 .572/.565 114 lsa
GM LS2 Timing Chain
Patriot "Gold" Dual Valve Spring Kit
Comp Cams Hi-Tech One-Piece Chromemoly pushrods, 7.400"
lingenfelter ported ls6 oil pump

was going to put LS6 intake on, but didn't realize i had to buy new coolant lines for it to fit ... where do i get that at?

question 2 ... after putting on oil pump ... while driving my car my oil pressure was about 70-75 ... and 80 is the highest the gauge goes ... is this bad???

question 3 ... the pvc piping that goes from the valve cover to somewhere behind the block on passenger side then goes to somewhere on intake ... like TB or something??? but yeah we couldn't figure that out how that goes b ack in and we are pretty sure its not needed ... is there a bypass kit for this???
where do i get that ... ?

i think that is all i have for now ... thanks in advance ...

wssexorz

iTrader: (5)

that pvc ... I THINK its pvc ... but it goes from the drivers side valve cover to the passneger side

wssexorz

iTrader: (5)

one more question ... there was a random electrical wire on the passenger side .... with electircal tape on it ... was like this when we started install ... what would that be? its a small connecter between fuel rails and valve covers

SSTYCOON

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=wssexorz]Okay i just put in my cam in my trans am ... it was a rough install with a few problems ... this is where i'm at now..


was going to put LS6 intake on, but didn't realize i had to buy new coolant lines for it to fit ... where do i get that at?
you don't need new coolant lines, just grind your so your intake will seat properly. this will work

wssexorz

iTrader: (5)

grind the front of it?

SSTYCOON

iTrader: (2)

the front might clear the coolant lines but you might have to grind there to, i can't remember. grind the baffles(honey combs?) where the coolant lines run, so you'll have the clearance. use a dremel or a angle grinder. it'll work

DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

Look on the bottom of the intake. There are a lot of little raised lines (ridges) that you can grind away with a die grinder (or tool of your choice) to clear the coolant lines. I prefer this method. For motors with possible small cooling problems, I figured having some more flow couldn't hurt, so I stayed with the earlier coolant lines and made the intake work with it.

Is that 70-75psi oil pressure at warm idle, or just firing it up and driving it right away, or what? I doubt its that high at warm idle, that's probably cold idle, or cold driving, right?

As for the PCV, I don't exactly remember how mine was set up on these cars from the factory as I eliminated mine. I will eventually get an LS6 valley cover and run a PCV system in the future I think.

SSTYCOON

iTrader: (2)

For the oil presure, It will be high if your motor is cold, of course... but heres a rule of thumb, you need 10psi for every 1000 rpm. If your oil pressure is always crazy high, you might have broken you oil sending unit or its disconnected. i broke mine on my intake install.

DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

I broke mine as well, but when mine was broken I wasn't getting any oil pressure readings at all. Was just shooting oil out :doh:

wssexorz

iTrader: (5)

ummm the high pressure is at cold and warm .... and i haven't even taken it past 4k rpm yet cuz just got it fired up today ... where is that oil sending unit that i might of broken?

Jake@EPP

Its the black sensor that is standing vertical on the back of the block. The line from the brake booster usually gets caught and breaks these. These are very fragile and it may not look broke but it probably is. Is there any fluctuation in oil pressure while raising rpms?

Phoenix 5.7

iTrader: (7)

PCV connects between valve covers then connects to the intake right behind the TB.
u can either block it off on both valve covers, or connect the 2 valve covers together and just block off the intake.

wssexorz

iTrader: (5)

once again i never really hammered it toooo much .... but it didn't really do any noticibally fluctuting like it use to

wssexorz

iTrader: (5)

blocking off that pvc ... how does that affect anything?

allngn_c5

iTrader: (3)

Good luck on working out the few issues you have. Let us know when she's squared away, again good luck.

wssexorz

iTrader: (5)

how would i know if that sensor has gotten harmed?

SSTYCOON

iTrader: (2)

it'll be just dangling there. if in doubt just replace it, 15-25 dollars, depends where you go. I heard if the oil presure sky rockets it may not be plugged in .. but who knows?

wssexorz

iTrader: (5)

and its behind the block? so if i pull off intake manifold i should be able to see it pretty clearly?

wssexorz

iTrader: (5)

Okay ... i pulled this picture off LS1howto.com ... they have a PCV elimination writeup ....



so the hose that green can just go from valve cover to valve cover ... and the blue and red one what do i do with those???

here is their writeup for ls1 to ls6 pcv

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=18

wssexorz

iTrader: (5)

http://s78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...t=MVI_1641.flv

quick vid i just took of completed project ... here is a picture of my oil pressure and warm ... it is angled but it was runnin about 210



also i did watch it while revving and driving ... as rpms went up ... and oil pressure soard passed 80 psi ...