worried about my engine
#1
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worried about my engine
here is my set up on my 1998 silver Trans Am.
small stealth cam, heads re worked, SLP lid, 3.73 gears, Built 4l60E transmission, pacesetter long tube headers, 3 inch x pipe, dynomax mufflers, EGR block off, Throttle body bypass, K&N filter. The people who did the work wanted to tack on another 2,000 for me to get forged rods and pistons. They said i needed that if i was going to be racing? How would my engine hold up with out doing this stuff.
ps. im a HUGE NEWB when it comes to cars... im just 19 and im just getting into this kind of stuff i love it!!! but please the more help the better.
Thanks,
ImStock
small stealth cam, heads re worked, SLP lid, 3.73 gears, Built 4l60E transmission, pacesetter long tube headers, 3 inch x pipe, dynomax mufflers, EGR block off, Throttle body bypass, K&N filter. The people who did the work wanted to tack on another 2,000 for me to get forged rods and pistons. They said i needed that if i was going to be racing? How would my engine hold up with out doing this stuff.
ps. im a HUGE NEWB when it comes to cars... im just 19 and im just getting into this kind of stuff i love it!!! but please the more help the better.
Thanks,
ImStock
#4
Originally Posted by ImStock
here is my set up on my 1998 silver Trans Am.
small stealth cam, heads re worked, SLP lid, 3.73 gears, Built 4l60E transmission, pacesetter long tube headers, 3 inch x pipe, dynomax mufflers, EGR block off, Throttle body bypass, K&N filter. The people who did the work wanted to tack on another 2,000 for me to get forged rods and pistons. They said i needed that if i was going to be racing? How would my engine hold up with out doing this stuff.
ps. im a HUGE NEWB when it comes to cars... im just 19 and im just getting into this kind of stuff i love it!!! but please the more help the better.
Thanks,
ImStock
small stealth cam, heads re worked, SLP lid, 3.73 gears, Built 4l60E transmission, pacesetter long tube headers, 3 inch x pipe, dynomax mufflers, EGR block off, Throttle body bypass, K&N filter. The people who did the work wanted to tack on another 2,000 for me to get forged rods and pistons. They said i needed that if i was going to be racing? How would my engine hold up with out doing this stuff.
ps. im a HUGE NEWB when it comes to cars... im just 19 and im just getting into this kind of stuff i love it!!! but please the more help the better.
Thanks,
ImStock
#6
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They are just tryin to get further into your pockets. No forged internals are needed unless the at least one of the following applies:
A) Your in need of a rebuild anyway(might as well upgrade)
B) Your gonna go boosted
C) your planning on using a big shot of nitrous
Other than that save your money. I'm gettin ready to do a nice heads/cam swap on my 1999 with 100,500 miles on it & I'm stickin with the stock piston/rods.
A) Your in need of a rebuild anyway(might as well upgrade)
B) Your gonna go boosted
C) your planning on using a big shot of nitrous
Other than that save your money. I'm gettin ready to do a nice heads/cam swap on my 1999 with 100,500 miles on it & I'm stickin with the stock piston/rods.
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Oh, ok thanks a lot guys. It sounded weird to me too. I was like god wtf 2k more and if im going to be racing (which im not) but i do enjoy going fast and driving the car that i paid for... But back on point i thought to myself "damn i don't think every one with these cars has forged internals. Cause thats expensive. Thanks guys the more people who reinforce this and/or give past experiences the better, I will feel about it cause as you guys know these cars arn't cheap once you buy it then start to mod... so im nervous. CAUSE I LOVE IT!
Thanks,
ImStock
Thanks,
ImStock
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#8
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Originally Posted by gtobizman
most people just run the stock pistons and rods till they break, then replace it or get a crate motor depending on the damage. Depends on how much you want to roll the dice.
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If you have a '98, then you have weaker rod bolts. You shouldn't go over like 6400. Somewhere in the 00/01 time frame they started using more stout rod bolts that people generally agree are good to 6800 RPMs.
In my opinion, why pay $2000 now for a rebuild of the exact same thing you had when you can wait until the motor NEEDS a rebuild and apply that $2000 to bigger displacement and a more stout block?
In my opinion, why pay $2000 now for a rebuild of the exact same thing you had when you can wait until the motor NEEDS a rebuild and apply that $2000 to bigger displacement and a more stout block?