SweeTbone

iTrader: (8)

Just pulled my stock heads. I've been using the writeup at LS1howto.com for the swap. I have my trusty ice scraper, but I have a few questions. I stuffed shop rags in all the lifter bores, and in two of the cylinders that the piston was sitting low enough to get a rag in there.

My question is when these old gasket shavings come flaking off, do I have to worry about where pieces go? Obviously the big chunks that rolled I can pull off by hand. I used a shop vac and swept up every shaving I could see, but I didn't suck the coolant out of the block before pulling my heads, and I can see some shavings in the coolant in the block. Is this okay?

Also, I've been reading about the Scotch Brite pad and other chemicals that would work for block prep. Any recommendations? Thanks for any tips.

AutomagicLS1

iTrader: (18)

You really dont need to drain the coolant out of yoru block in the 1st place I mean you could if you want but if you have access to an air compressor they sell a tool at the parts store that is like a air nozzle except it has a plastic tube on it and it sucks the coolant out of the bolt holes with all that crap that gets in there and it will drain into a bucket or whatever. Its like $10 I used it then once it was all dry i just blew compressed air for like 5 mins in each bolt hole with a rag over it to get it dry. Get a gallon of acetone and that **** is lethal on getting that gasket crap off the deck of the block and cleaning it all up worked great for me. After you get her running and know theres no leaks just do a coolant flush

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Get the coolant and the pieces out of the block. Keep the block clean, anything you leave behind has to go through the water pump and could block the small line connecting the heads. A vacuum can be used to empty the block or a miti-vac. Don't use any sharp objects to clean the block when cleaning, don't use oven cleaner (bad for aluminum). I use denature alcohol and scotchbrite. Put some oil in each cylinder so as you turn it over the cylinders are lubricated, this will also catch any particles and as you turn it over you will see the oil film left behind will be dirty. I usually turn the motor over several times, wiping the cylinders as I go to ensure nothing is in the rings. Cleanliness is very important. Don't let anything go in the lifter bores, you will be looking at the potential of spun bearings if you do.

3.4camaro

iTrader: (1)

A bunch of gasket got in my lifter bores, and made the oil nasty mud. It was no big deal, except my oil pressure got lower.

For cleaning the block deck, I used a die grinder with a bit designed for removing gasket from aluminum. It didn't take more than an hour, and I was pretty careful to get all of it.

Just make sure you get your deck clean and nice. You can do a coolant and oil change after initial startup/heat cycle.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Where do you think it goes from there? The LSx feeds lifters and cam then crank, so that crap will end up trying to pass through your crank bearings. Not good, better to keep it out in the first place. This is one of the reasons we see so many spun bearings.

SweeTbone

iTrader: (8)

Okay, I will vacuum out the remaining coolant once I have both gaskets scraped. How is the best approach to vacuum out the block? Also, What would it really take to spin a bearing? I have rags in all the lifter bores, but of course there are some little flakes sitting on the rags. I've been careful not to let any fall down. One or two flakes have fallen into the bore, but onto the block wall and not down into the hole, so I got every piece out. I also have the stock cam still in place.

3.4camaro

iTrader: (1)

It got there from my die grinder, which i used to scrape the old gasket off. I didn't tape off the lifter bores or anything, so the gasket bits probly got in through there.

The gasket is graphite, which is a lubricant. It's not THAT bad for the bearings. I probly ran it for 200 miles before changing the oil. The oil pressure was at 20psi at idle, down from 40 of the initial startup. I'm guessing that the graphite got stopped by the filter, and made a partial clog. Changed the oil, and I'm back up to 40lbs at idle, almost 1000 miles later.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Gasket has more than graphite in it. You need to make sure nothing gets inside the oil gallerys of the motor, and with lifters out they are exposed. Once in the gallery, there is not way out except for through the oil feed in a bearing. Keep things as clean as you can, once you are done take a strong flashlight and look for any scraps that might get into the lifters. As for the block, you can put a small hose on a shop vac and get out the fluid and any pieces in the cooling system. Go over everything when you are done and make sure they are really clean, turn the motor over several times by hand with a little oil around the bore so the piston will leave any particulate at the top as it goes around, you can then wipe off. Once you are done with everything, give the block a thorough cleaning with a clean rag and denatured alcohol to remove any oil residue prior to gasket installation.

Good luck, it will come out OK just take your time and don't rush. The cleaning of the gasket surfaces and the bolt holes is a very critical step.

bowe1632

iTrader: (1)

there was a plastic adhesive i was able to buy to tape off the lifter bores...this is many many times safer than a rag, because as you said, when you remove the rag you are risking any flakes falling in, plus rags in general may have loose particles...try to seal them off completely, it will make you feel better as well.....
bowe

SweeTbone

iTrader: (8)

Okay, well, I'll mask off the lifter bores. Right now, the lifters and trays are out. I only started a little on the passenger side and haven't touched the drivers side. I'll see how the masking off part goes and what I can get with a shop vac. Would it be beneficial to put the old lifters back in during this process? I am upgrading to LS7 lifters anyways. This is the kind info I needed fellas. Thank you. It was the common sense stuff, but for someone reading "just scrap it off with an ice scraper", it has the potential to be disaster.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Everybody has a roll of duct tape. You can use that to cover any holes you don't want debris getting into. Cover the water jacket holes too. The long skinny tube on the end of the shop vac nozzle is a good suggestion. Then blow out the rest with a nozzle from your air compressor. Be sure to tape over the water jacket area before using the vac or air. I like to pull out that big allen on the drivers side of the block. It looks like a giant set screw. It drains most of the block. If you take that drain plug out BEFORE you pull the heads off you don't have coolant going all over the place as the heads are lifted off. Single edge razor blade and scotch brite pad works good for getting small bits of gasket material off. You were already told about the denatured alcohol. A little of it on a scotch brite pad works wonders. Hospital clean is the work here. Both on the deck face and head face. Clean, smooth and shiny. Now you're good to go.