JJhomer83

I am new to the "new" tech on motors. Just wondering how much money does everyone have in there LS1 motors and what is there 1/4 mile time. I have been reading ALOT. and trying to figure what 10k will get me. So far I am guessing I will hit high 10s with doing most of my own work. If you guys could shed some light that would be great.
hope I posted this in the right place

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Ive seen what it takes to run 10's and you will need more then 10k.

Correction: I have seen some VERY light weight cars with some bearly streetable set running BEARLY 10.9X at Atco raceway(best 1/4 track in the cuntry) in good air. Anything is possible but this guy that I know is a rarity.

teke184

iTrader: (5)

vague question.

guys have run mid 12s with lid, catback, gears and tires.

then there are guys with h/c setups that are still stuck in the low 12s.

is it an auto or m6?

lid - $100
intake - $300
headers - $500
true duals - $400
camshaft - $500
heads - $1000 to $2500
injectors - $300
dyno tune - $500
clutch or torque converter - $500
12 bolt rear (stock wont hold long) - $2500
suspension parts (lca, torque arm, sfc) - $500
rims/tires (slicks) - $500

there are alot of small ticky tacky stuff that will eat up money, but that's the major list.
some will depend on what the car is to begin with. 01/02 will already have the upgraded intake, so unless you go to a FAST, you're fine.
obviously things like trans type will change stuff.

ssfast99

iTrader: (3)

to be honest, it depends on the way you go. you having a 2002 Z28 helps you off the bat. get a good all around cam for $400.00, 243 heads for $1200.00, clutch for $500.00, rear end and tires for $2700.00 and a nitrous kit for $650.00 and a good driver can do 10s all day driving it to the track and back home.

Dragkid1917

iTrader: (2)

you need springs and **** with a new cam, a cam alone is 389 bucks from comp cams... my parts costed me like... 1100, i got the oil pump and double chain deal but even without that just for new springs and some seats and seals it was 720 bucks. And to answer your question i have about $6,000 into my car and i went a 12.04 at 114.7, and my car was also short shifting. (im automatic) so itll be in the 11's when thats fixed. The real problem is not making the power but the step from where im at, to 10's is alot in drivetrain and needing a new rear.

JJhomer83

The 3 tracks I will be running at would be atko englishtown and maple grove all three are fairly close to where i live.

As for upgrades there are 4 thinks I am going to do first in the following order.
Headers - pacesetter longtubes with ory
12 bolt rear with 4.10
stall converter don't know which one need to do more research,
cam again don't know

If anyone could point me in the right direction that would be great.
I still have a lot to learn about this car compared to past cars I have had.

To give you guys an idea on what one of the cars I used to have I have attached a pic of my father driving our old 70 chevelle. It took us about 3 years to do. The other pic is my current car. Together my dad and I have been building cars for as long as I remember. It took a lot of convincing him to try the 02 camaro but it worked. I will post pics of my other project as well soon. We are in the process of rebuilding a 55 2 door chevy post car.

LS1C5Vette

iTrader: (11)

So far, over 4k but I do all my own work

BANDIT8

iTrader: (-2)

Speed In Very Expensive. Might Be Cheaper To Get Addicted To Crack.

JJhomer83

I will be doing my own work as well....

transamfreak01

iTrader: (8)

fast is a very vague term... i think 11 second cars are fast but my buddy w/ his 9 second car thinks 11s are slow. so i meen i would set your mind to thinking "i want to be fast." set a goal for yourself first (a goal that is managable not like i want to run 8s) and then work towards that... when you get to that goal youre going to get used to it and then want to go faster. its a never ending battle unless you have large amounts of money.

with 10k you should be able to hit 10s w/o a problem w/ bolt ons and cam and nitrous but i meen anything can happen.

RedRallyeZ

iTrader: (20)

probably the single most true post ever made on this forum. im in a constant state of broke.

DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

I bought my car for $6300. Including the cost of the car, I've got a bit over $27k into the car I believe. By the end of winter it'll be around $31k and have a forged 347 and safely spraying 200hp next year.

That includes almost every little nut and bolt. That includes all of the safety equipment to make car and driver 99% legal to run down to a 10.00 (don't have a SFI flywheel or scattershield yet). Includes all of the upgraded drivetrain components (trans, d/s, rear), decently high-end suspension components, dyno tune, upgraded alternator/audio, street wheels/tires, fuel system, C5 brakes, nitrous system w/ all goodies, etc.

It also includes replacing a couple parts deciding what I wanted to do in a few areas. Learned a lot building this car, and if I were to do it over again, I could probably knock a few thousand dollars off. Tried not to cut corners on this car though.

Only used parts I can think of off the top of my head were the heads, head bolts, ZR1's and air lid!

LS1GameOVR

ive got right around 3500-4000$ in mine 99 t/a m6, mods are as follows, small cam, underdreive pulley, ls6 intake, headers, loudmouth 1, lid, throttle body, ls7 clutch, some stuff i put on , others i had a buddy, i guess you could get close to 10.00's if you can do the work yourself, i no labor kills alot of people , anyhow with my setup on street tires and stock fanblade rims, ran a 12.4 @110 on a 85* day with a 2.0 60ft, i had it dynoed at 385 horse, and 378 torque

SilverSmoke

IMO, if you want to hit 10's NA, without spray, you will have to fork up the $$$ to the higher end components, like ported FAST 90/90 setup, kooks/QTP/AR LT's, top notch heads, lots fine tuning... etc to squeeze every bit of hp from the car.

Out of curiosity, where would 480-500rwhp put a person with an LS1 M6 on the 1/4"? I'm thinking low 11's?

SSmoken

iTrader: (26)

I have $1700 in parts and run mid 11's.

CamaroSS19

iTrader: (24)

This would be my list

lid - $100- $50
FAST 90/90 $1100-$850
headers - $500 -$300
camshaft - $500 $250
heads - $2500
injectors - $300-$100
dyno tune - $500
YANK torque converter - $800- $550
12 bolt rear (stock wont hold long) - $2500
Drive shaft $400
rims/tires (slicks) - $500
suspension parts (lca, torque arm, sfc) - $500 Not nedded IMO but a good Idea

The second #s were parts I picked up used for that price . I don't think with those mods you can get 10's without an auto anless you are a really good driver

Or for a little more you can get

408 $4500 w/cam /oil pump ect
Killer heads $2500
Yank converter $800
Headers $500
12 bolt $2500
built trans $2500
Drive shaft $400

JJhomer83

Does anyone have any experience with deleting weight from these cars. I know that my car is already a little lighter than the norm b/c of the lack of power options but I was thinking about removing the a/c, heater (does it affect anything), rear seats, radio/speakers, possible plexi door windows, air bag assembly, let me know

King James

iTrader: (13)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-tech/17319-weight-reduction-list.html - There you go

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

It all depends on what your after. Do you want a dependable daily driver that runs 10's or a drag queen?

The drag car is cheaper. Shocks, tires, rear, weight reduction, move battery, n2o is the cheapest power add.



Daily driver is much more expensive. You don’t have the luxury of weight transfer so you really need a proper built heads and cam combo or an expensive power add like s/c or turbo. 10k wont get you into the 10’s in a DD street car but should/could in a dedicated drag car.

Also you can save money on used parts vs new which will help

Hennytime

iTrader: (33)

i really havent spent that much and my car just ran 12.4 and with some more tuning and better conditions its an 11 second car. as far as motor goes ive got a bunch of used stuff from the for sale section here

75-lid
250-mac headers and y pipe
200-hooker cb
200-hotcam
50-new ls6 springs
100-tci stall converter, plus a 175 rebuild from TCI

ported tb-free (me)
free mods- free (me)
free tune- buddy

ive got a bunch of new suspension from umi, just need a kmember and tq arm to complete that setup and m/t 255's on 16's. it doesnt take an arm and a leg to go fast (11's are fast to me at the moment), just understanding how a good combo should work together. of course there are more expensive ways, but if your just trying to learn about how things work and this is a first time, take it easy and learn. im planning to throw some nitrous on the car and try to squeek into the 10's only after i hit 11's. i believe that learning how your car runs is more important that throwing parts on and seeing what itll do once or twice