MxWickedZ28

i was just wondering what method would have to be used when replacing the rod bolts and bearings ath the same time. The reason i'm asking is because i've read when replacing just the bolts to do one at a time to prevent the cap from streching, but what if your replacing bearings and bolts? Would you check clearances with plastigage, then remove bolts, switch bearings, then pop the new bolts in and recheck clearances?

quick346

iTrader: (4)

I would give advice but for fear of being flamed i will just say follow what arp say's.

on this site advice mean's controversy. but arp will send direction's with the bolt's

MxWickedZ28

i understand with the bolts but i'm more unclear with the bearings on r&r

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

From what I understand just replacing the the bolts without resizing the the rods can possibly be a problem. I would highly recommend a search in here. In a nutshell, from what I recall on here the ARP's are heavier and can cause issues. Katech bolts are about the same weight as stock and are OK. The issue wasn't just the weight though. I just can't find Katech's anywhere as they are on backorder (want to do them too with H/C swap coming up soon so I can spin more). This is not from personal experince so I may be wrong and I hope one of the real smart guys on here chimes in to settle it for both of us. Subscribing.
Good luck!

MxWickedZ28

i read about that also, being that the arps need to be resized....but i havent read of anyone actually doing it, are does arp simply state that for legal reasons (???) and like stated before if anyone outhere has done the bolts and bearings to chime in for a lil info

brett walker

iTrader: (6)

def need to resize the rods when changing bolts. can cause streching of the caps and spin the bearings.

ArKay99

iTrader: (1)

I did the ARP Pro's in my C5 about 8k miles ago, made great power with my h/c setup, and quite often pushed hard on the go pedal, and many trips to 6900rpm's. Never a problem. HOWEVER... in August I dropped a thick washer into my #7 hole and didn't realize it and when I started the motor I crushed the piston, destroyed the sleeve, and cracked the block. I had a thread about this. When I was tearing the motor down I pulled the rod bolts. Most of them were still tightened to the 45ft/lbs. figure I put them in at. There were at least 3 on 3 different rods that were not tight. Maybe 15ft/lbs... So, dropping the washer into the cylinder was probably a blessing in diguise. At least it happened in my garage. The mains looked fine though, so what ever distortion was present wasn't enough to significantly wear the bearings.
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I would suggest that if you are going to change the rod bolts and go with ARP's put them in with a stretch gauge and make absolutely sure that the caps DON'T MOVE when you have a bolt out and if they do, be absolutley sure you have it placed back perfectly within the fissure.
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One last thing to check is after you have finished installing all the bolts. Go through them all again and verify they are all at the final torque setting.
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This doesn't state anything about the bearings though and I don't have any experience there. I just wanted it to be known what I found in my case regarding the rod bolts.

MxWickedZ28

ttt......

THE CHOP SHOP

iTrader: (7)

I read a post about a week ago about someone who did the arps and ended up having a knock after everything was done. I would really stay away from the arps just because they add more clamping force and can distort the rods. If you have the motor apart and can have the big end resized then cool do it. I have heard good things about the Katechs and I would only go with them if it was me doing it in the car. I think if you changed the bearings you would have the same problem as if you did not. The only difference would be is the new bearing would buy you sometime.

quick346

iTrader: (4)

How do you resize a cracked cap rod???

Please do tell

KCS

iTrader: (20)

There are a few ways that I am aware of, the first is to assemble the cap and rods with the new bolts tightened to whatever stretch/torque value then hone .002" on the rod resizer. There are bearings for the rod honed .002" for a .010" undersized crank, and I think there are still bearings available for factory size, but I dunno where to get em.

Search would've found that for you because I know this isn't the first time I've expained that.

quick346

iTrader: (4)

ok i have never seen that option for the rod bearing's. very cool though

Thanks for the info