Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

cam/head setup for daily driver

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-17-2008, 11:29 PM
  #1  
On The Tree
Thread Starter
 
iwannagofast2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Edwards afb cali
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default cam/head setup for daily driver

just curious what you guys think i should get for a cam and head setup for something im gonna drive everyday and also trying to keep it in somewhat of a budget. please be specific with anwsers im kind of new thanx.
Old 06-18-2008, 01:32 AM
  #2  
11 Second Club
iTrader: (14)
 
kdavis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Encinal/Kingsville, Texas
Posts: 840
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

i am going to do a set of take off ls6 heads, and a 224 or 228 cam.
Old 06-18-2008, 01:58 AM
  #3  
12 Second Club
iTrader: (21)
 
95 Z28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: West Seneca, NY
Posts: 1,406
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

What's your budget?
Old 06-18-2008, 04:13 AM
  #4  
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (26)
 
transwiz's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

What is your budget? You can get a tr224 cam for $400.00.their are lots of used 243 heads with miles on them out there (20-30 K) for around $350.00.That's a good setup for a person on a budget. 243 's are zo6 vette heads.
________________
2000 t/a with lots of mods
Old 06-18-2008, 07:32 AM
  #5  
12 Second Club
iTrader: (116)
 
BIG_MIKE2005's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Skiatook, OK
Posts: 5,222
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Honestly I'm in love with my 224/.581 114 cam & worked over 5.3 heads. The driveability is like stock but the power is there. Even with my A/C on it idles just fine.
Old 06-18-2008, 07:40 AM
  #6  
11 Second Club
iTrader: (27)
 
Z28/2002's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Your girl's back door giving her the long stroke while you're at work
Posts: 6,801
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

I daily drove my MS3/PRC 5.3 combo on the street for almost a year and never had an issue. Hell my mom and my girlfriend drove the car a couple times while I was deployed and they loved it

Last edited by Z28/2002; 06-18-2008 at 10:04 AM.
Old 06-18-2008, 07:49 AM
  #7  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
TXZ28LS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Classified
Posts: 6,164
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

for budget H/C setups its tough to beat patriot's H/C setup as well as TSP setups.
Old 06-18-2008, 08:00 AM
  #8  
On The Tree
 
WheelmanWS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chicagoland Area
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

be very careful when "budgeting" for any kind of work past bolt-ons. Things happen, you discover things when the car is apart, and things don't always go the way you want them to. I went with a very comprehensive heads and cam setup (even got a new clutch/flywheel while motor was out, and a dyno tune).

Make sure you plan accordingly and allow some room for error in your pricing structure. Do things once the right way, and it will be worth the extra money.
Old 06-18-2008, 10:51 AM
  #9  
On The Tree
Thread Starter
 
iwannagofast2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Edwards afb cali
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by WheelmanWS6
be very careful when "budgeting" for any kind of work past bolt-ons. Things happen, you discover things when the car is apart, and things don't always go the way you want them to. I went with a very comprehensive heads and cam setup (even got a new clutch/flywheel while motor was out, and a dyno tune).

Make sure you plan accordingly and allow some room for error in your pricing structure. Do things once the right way, and it will be worth the extra money.
...guys im not saying i have a way low budget im just trying to keep it somewhat cheep like maybe 2g's? maybe less? i want something reliable and lots of power something i can drive to the track ya know? my buddy went through hi-tech but he said he had problems with the cam setup they have so i want to go heads and cam plase any input thanx guys.
Old 06-18-2008, 11:26 AM
  #10  
12 Second Club
iTrader: (116)
 
BIG_MIKE2005's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Skiatook, OK
Posts: 5,222
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Just check with the site sponsors to the right ----->

Several of them offer proven H/C packages & are priced in your range. They can also help you with a combo that serves the exact purpose you want from the car.
Old 06-18-2008, 11:43 AM
  #11  
FormerVendor
iTrader: (3)
 
Shawn @ VA Speed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia Beach,Virginia
Posts: 2,991
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

i have a nice head cam package for 1550.00,with an ls6 intake and headers i generally make around 415-420 in an a4 car and 425-435 in an m6 car.that also comes with pushrods
Old 06-18-2008, 12:37 PM
  #12  
On The Tree
 
WheelmanWS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chicagoland Area
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by iwannagofast2000
...guys im not saying i have a way low budget im just trying to keep it somewhat cheep like maybe 2g's? maybe less? i want something reliable and lots of power something i can drive to the track ya know? my buddy went through hi-tech but he said he had problems with the cam setup they have so i want to go heads and cam plase any input thanx guys.
.... and I'm not accussing you of having a low budget.

Just a little perspective:

I have a Futral F13 (good cam, custom developed) and Patriot Stage II LS6 heads (ported OEM head, not an aftermarket cast like the AFRs)... you could considern that a "cheap" setup in some sense.... however with the proper valvetrain parts, gaskets, supporting clutch/flywheel for the power, dyno tune, labor (unfortunately no access to proper tools, garage, etc.) I spent over $6k.

My setup is by no means "high-end", but it was done right, is extremely reliable, and daily driven.

Are you going to be installing this yourself? are you JUST doing "heads and cam" or are you gonna get the proper valvetrain support, tuning, etc.?

Shawn offered you a good setup for the buck in the post above. But please keep in mind, there are other costs to consider. I'm not criticizing you, I just want you to be aware of what your getting into so you don't end up with your car apart and lacking the funds to finish should something arise.
Old 06-18-2008, 01:52 PM
  #13  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
 
ZMONSTER!'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Fresno, California
Posts: 1,985
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

TSP 224R and PRC 5.3, but Im a little biased...Hey BIG_MIKE2005, what sort of numbers are you making?
Old 06-18-2008, 02:01 PM
  #14  
On The Tree
 
JDM74's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Suffolk, VA
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Shawn @ VA Speed
i have a nice head cam package for 1550.00,with an ls6 intake and headers i generally make around 415-420 in an a4 car and 425-435 in an m6 car.that also comes with pushrods
Let me guess what cam...

On another note, engine modifications are just the beginning of a "heads and cam package" Drive train supporting modifications can equal or surpass the cost of the power mods especially if your car is a manual. It's no fun to have all that power with no way to get it to the road reliably.
Old 06-18-2008, 02:07 PM
  #15  
12 Second Club
iTrader: (116)
 
BIG_MIKE2005's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Skiatook, OK
Posts: 5,222
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by ZMONSTER!
TSP 224R and PRC 5.3, but Im a little biased...Hey BIG_MIKE2005, what sort of numbers are you making?
No dyno number yet, but have some racing results which is giving me a round about idea of what it's making. I'm guessing around 380'ish right now with my stock intake still on & no tune.

I ran a (I believe from body style) 07' vette non-Z06 on the highway from 60-130. I put about 3 full solid cars on him both times & it still had the paper tag in the window.

I'm piecing together a forged 347 right now to huff nitrous. So I'll get it tuned with the Aluminum intake & juice once the motor is ready. I'm looking for around 420hp/400tq on the motor & north of 550hp on the juice. I just haven't got it tunes b/c it has ran perfect since the install & the only code thats poopped is the improper heating of O2 sensor which is typical even after LT's. I'm also averaging 18mpg too currently.
Old 06-18-2008, 02:56 PM
  #16  
On The Tree
Thread Starter
 
iwannagofast2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Edwards afb cali
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by WheelmanWS6
.... and I'm not accussing you of having a low budget.

Just a little perspective:

I have a Futral F13 (good cam, custom developed) and Patriot Stage II LS6 heads (ported OEM head, not an aftermarket cast like the AFRs)... you could considern that a "cheap" setup in some sense.... however with the proper valvetrain parts, gaskets, supporting clutch/flywheel for the power, dyno tune, labor (unfortunately no access to proper tools, garage, etc.) I spent over $6k.

My setup is by no means "high-end", but it was done right, is extremely reliable, and daily driven.

Are you going to be installing this yourself? are you JUST doing "heads and cam" or are you gonna get the proper valvetrain support, tuning, etc.?

Shawn offered you a good setup for the buck in the post above. But please keep in mind, there are other costs to consider. I'm not criticizing you, I just want you to be aware of what your getting into so you don't end up with your car apart and lacking the funds to finish should something arise.

so lets say i have a 2000 a4 and i have full hooker exhaust i have an mti air lid and i want to put a cam and head package in my car what else would i need to make it reliable....im guessing some rear -end work...do something to the tans like you were saying new fly wheel? also i will prolly get a ported TB and ls6 intake help me out guys im just trying to learn a little bit here i realize it will cost money to do this stuff and im willing to spend whatever it cost to do it up right the first time while i have it apart. just curious what else i need to make it a reliable daily driver. thanx for all the input so far.
Old 06-18-2008, 03:00 PM
  #17  
On The Tree
Thread Starter
 
iwannagofast2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Edwards afb cali
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I guess on top of that my origanl question should have just been what is the best bang for your buck head/cam setup for an a4 daily driver? thanx again for all the help guys
Old 06-18-2008, 03:06 PM
  #18  
12 Second Club
iTrader: (116)
 
BIG_MIKE2005's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Skiatook, OK
Posts: 5,222
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

It is not "required" that you mess with the rear, clutch set-up or transmission just for a H/C install. the guy your quoting went above & beyond. Take it from me & countless others who have spent far less.

For a basic H/C swap you will want the following:

H/C package of your choice
water pump gaskets
timing cover gasket
new balancer bolt
LS7 lifters (i suggest this at minimum while you have the heads off)
oil pump (optional but if you want one the Melling is a good choice or a TSP ported)
new stock head bolts or ARP head bolts (the stockers are TTY, so only one use out of them)
hardened chromemoly pushrods (correct length for your application)
LS2 timing chain
New head gaskets
new plugs/wires

And I would highly recommend a aftermarket stall converter to match your H/C combo

You can always come back later & have your trans rebuilt & upgrade to a 12-bolt or 9" rear end set-up. But these things are NOT required for a basic H/C set-up to be up & running. Depending on your H/C selection tuning will be a must & and it is a must to see full potiential from your combo.

You should easily be able to do a full H/C swap for around $2500 & thats for all new parts from a sponsor. you can sometimes save alot of money buying from other members on here. Hopefully this helps you out.

Also note that when I did mine I also replaced my water pump & radiator hoses while I was in there. Just made sense to me since thats cheap stuff to take care of while it's apart.
Old 06-18-2008, 03:20 PM
  #19  
On The Tree
Thread Starter
 
iwannagofast2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Edwards afb cali
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

thank you that helps a lot lol lots of good info thats what ive been waiting for thanx a lot man. if you want you can post on my newbie question in the newbie forum, its a little bit more of a technical question but im pretty sure you know your stuff. thanx again man appreciate it.
Old 06-18-2008, 03:54 PM
  #20  
On The Tree
 
WheelmanWS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chicagoland Area
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Keep in mind, its all in your goals and getting the correct supporting mods. I didn't necessarily NEED a clutch and flywheel, but it was a lot better for my setup. For an A4, your don't NEED a stall, but you probably SHOULD get one. Also, I never said anything about a rear-end. I will need one since i'm going to be racing, and I would suggest one if you are too.

I don't think I would call my setup "above & beyond" or I would have more cubes and some FI on top of that

I just made sure I had the right parts in the right places. Valvetrain work is DEFINITELY worth the money. A stall will help performance and increase the driveability of the cam. Big Mike put down a good list of what your motor does NEED. I would also classify a good tune in the HIGHLY RECOMMENDED/NEED column as well. The rest is all in how much you want to do and want to spend.

Check my car domain page and take a look at the engine mods, minus gaskets, bolts, and plugs, that is everything you should need.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:02 AM.