joe0121

Ok my car is a 99 Corvette coupe I bought from flash99 on this forum about a year ago. .

It has LG long tube pro headers, a 224/228 113 cam, K&N intake dual valve springs, titanium rockers.

Stock clutch which is a POS and sticks, as well as some oil consumption issues. (smoke on startup and while driving and the oil temp goes up) shop who put on the long tubes said it was isolated to three cylinders. Also has 275/40/18 run craps on the rear which needless to say aren't ideal.

At this point I would imagine I have some worn out piston rings, which I assume cannot be repaired without removing the engine.




It seems to me an engine rebuild is in order and as such I don't want to shell out $$$ and get a stock (sans current mods) engine in return.

I have hear the going with shorter connecting rods can give me a 383 stroker. Would the result of this be a lower compression ratio? or could it be tuned to allow in more air and fuel so it is effectively an increase in displacement?

Hopefully I will be getting a re-enlistment bonus from the natl guard. With a budget of say 10K could I get a forged bottom end with new pistons and connecting rods with enough left over for a suitable clutch?

Eventually, I would like to have a forced induction car with north of 600 HP to the wheels but for now I have gotten used to the current power and i'm feeling that itch again.

'02 WS6

iTrader: (73)

w/ 10k I'd look into a TSP or Kactech built motor for FI!

joe0121

Really, is that based on an LS1 block or a new engine? a 402 with a bigger watter pump for here in Arizona would be ideal and hopefully the smog standards stay lax.

Also I need a new clutch I hate the stock clutch I cant make more than one pass and it's done for the night.

Anyone else do a similar build?

joe0121

ttt

98RedZone

iTrader: (1)

Nice looking car!!

Check here for some short or long blocks.You will have plenty left for a clutch setup.

http://www.texas-speed.com/SHOP/cate...?MID=3&catid=3

camaroguy26

iTrader: (21)

sdpc.com also has some good blocks, do a search about 6.0 blocks which are either the LQ9 or LQ4 and for LS2 blocks. Most of your parts can be reused with them but there are some differences. The 6.0 blocks are iron and LS2 blocks are aluminum, but there's advantages/disadvantages to each and a few differences with what parts you can't swap over.

If you'd rather keep the block you have now you can do a 383 stroker, buy a kit and have a shop do the work for you. But the 383 stroker is more on a small budget mind where the bigger blocks will give you more torque and some better piece of mind.

joe0121

Thanks, when I went to look at the car it was love at irst site so to speak.
Thanks for the link both of you, it is interesting you said piece of mind, I take it the 383 stroker has reliability issue due to the block design not lending itself to 383 CID?

I think I would choose aluminum for the weight savings, I dont have plans for 800 RWHP just yet I think 550-ish to the wheel on the N20 would be the goal (on a 150 shot I am there already but like I said piston rings and clutch are suspect.)

Say I went with a forged 402 could I still use my stock heads, how much of a shot could I run with meth injection and not have to rebuild the engine every ten K miles. Is a 100 shot realistic with a forged bottom end on a daily driver with occasional use?

joe0121

Also I would like to keep the stock heads or now and run some N20, for now and latter on go to a blower. So I would need a cam/pistons that would work for say 125 shot of N20 and about 8 Ps1 of boost down the road (700HP on 8PSI) also what about using the spray under boost? And also can I flash the PCM with two tunes, one for the N20 and one for N/A driving so I don't have to drive around on a conservative tune and make N/A only passes, then flip a switch or something and change to the safer n20 tune?

VIPERBLUELX

iTrader: (2)

The clutch sticking is most likely due to dirty brake fluid in the reservoir...not the clutch itself.

joe0121

Clean the clutch fluid almost weekly, never let it get very dirty I have a fluid change kit in my Car, the C5 clutches have a known issue with sticking at high RPM, if fact LUK the clutch manufacturer has been contacted about and and has said it's a known issue and normal operation.

zakk101WS6

TSP All the way! I got a pretty sweet set up for around 7K! Clutch included!! AND it will take a 200 shot ALL DAY LONG! I still have the invoices if you want to glance. TSP are some great guys to deal with also. Great customer service, you wouldn't be disappointed. If you are close to a larger military installation you should have access to an MWR auto shop, thus letting you do the work yourself. Saves a little bit.

You need to decide what you want to do with the car first. Do you want to spray it or do you want an FI car? They are set up completely different as far as compression ratios are concerned.

How the HELL are you getting 10 g's for reenlistment? What's your MOS? They offered me a "shaving kit" and a coffee mug for 6 years.... You can guess what I told em...

joe0121

I'm a engineer, in a road building unit.

I was in the Marines, now im in the AZ Guard so no MWR shop, and with a full time job and school not much time for anything else. So I would be paying someone to do the work.

Also I'd keep the stock heads and spray till more $$$ frees up, than a sts turbo set up and appropriat heads.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

With your budget you have many options!! 10k is more than enough for a long block let alone a short block.

I can call you if you like just pm me your phone number to discuss things.

You can re-use your block, what we would do is clean up the bore say .005 and stick a 4" stroke crank in there to make a 383. It is very reliable !! The only think is you add cost by having to ship your block to us. Not a lot of cost but it does add some. We could rebuild your current block as long as it does not have a spun bearing or anything for about $3350 to make it a 383, in comparision my 408 SB is $4292 for an LQ9 or an LS2 403 for $4725, but then you need to add a LS2 converion kit for 275's w/timing set.

Does labor have to be accounted for as well in the 10k? If so we should stop there and you need to get some shop estimates for labor charges.

We build to suite budget and goals, we try to suggest things that make sense money wise and advise towards a sound combination for durability. I could also help you aquire that STS kit.