Z28U!

iTrader: (1)

I'm planning on deleting my ac soon however I do not see a pulley/bracket got my car (99 ls1 Camaro z28). Wondering if I can just take compressor off totally and install shorter belt and reroute. If so what belt do I need?

stoning_volcom

iTrader: (6)

The ac bolt drive is separate from the accessory drive. So pull the accessory belt then pull ac belt the remove the four 15mm bolts then disconnect the ac lines and remove the compressors bracket and all in one piece

Z28U!

iTrader: (1)

What if I know I'll never use ac belt again; could I cut it and avoid taking accessory belt off? And will this throw a code of any sort or affect driving ability?

bfd811

Its pretty easy just to take the belt off the A/C compressor just by releasing tension off of it via the A/C drive belt tensioner, If your hung up on just cutting it that will work also. Like stated above after you do that you'll need to remove the 15mm bolts that hold the A/C compressor/bracket on, the line that goes forward toward the front of the car to the condenser and the line that goes up and toward the rear of the car and connects to a evaporator core. There also may be some brackets on the lines fastening them to the engine bay and holding them in place.

One thing you need to remember is make sure the A/C system is evacuated or free of any kind of charge. If the A/C on the car is still operational and cold or even slightly cool that means it is charged and the system has Freon in it which at that point you'll need to take it somewhere like an automotive shop so they can hook the A/C charging/evacuating machine to it and have the system evacuated. If not your gonna make a mess and when you crack an A/C line to take it off. Freon and PAG oil is going to come spraying out everywhere making a mess of you and your car, plus that is some nasty stuff. Evacuating Freon into the atmosphere can not only result in a large fine if someone see's you but is also just not a good habit to get into. I'm no environment freak or anything but its just something that is generally frowned upon by most.

Z28U!

iTrader: (1)

Good deal. Thanks for all the info. So no negatives to taking everything out right? Such as codes and driveability.

bfd811

No, no issues as far as codes or drivability, wont affect a thing. Here in NC not having A/C is absolute HELL in the summer. I leave A/C on my cars until their track to street time goes 75%/25% at least. Only real differences your gonna see are your engine bay will look a little bit cleaner and you'll loose about 40 lbs but for me where I live 40lbs just doesn't justify taking it off unless you really, really care about shaving off a 1 tenth of a second maybe less. Also if you ever go to sell you'll more than likely have to have it put back on and charged up or else your selling audience is going to be much smaller. If your dead set on taking it off have at it, just a few things to think about.

Z28U!

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so I snipped the belt. Felt a bit peppier but the engine coolant temperature icon popped up on the dash pod. Any ideas?

bfd811

Hmm check out the coolant temp sensor. Its on a brass color sensor with a black electrical connector on the end that screws into the cylinder head on the drivers side towards the front. It goes in a similar angle as your exhaust mainfold bolts, shouldnt be too hard to spot. I beleive on 99 and up cars its a 2 wire sensor and the Engine's computer has a seperate wire that sends the signal to the dash. What is the engine temp according the guage? What does the light thats coming on look like? Does the check engine light come on?

Z28U!

iTrader: (1)

It's reading normal, at approximately 210 degrees. Check engine light is not on and the signal that is on is the engine coolant temp (made sure by looking in owners manual). I've also realized that the actual coolant level sensor comes on more frequent too now, even though I have more than enough coolant (this is the sensor that is a box shape with an arrow inside with a squiggly line as water).

Z28U!

iTrader: (1)

And when taking out the compressor, condenser etc, do I need to cap everything or just leave it alone. And removing all this won't affect my fans will it?

stoning_volcom

iTrader: (6)

no the light your referring to is the low coolant switch it sits right bellow the fill cap, in the rad. Check and make sure your fluids are topped off. Sometimes random stuff like that happens while removing stuff and your first thought is did i do it? In this case most likely not, just check fluids and have fun

Z28U!

iTrader: (1)

Ok so I did find that the little black plastic piece of the temp sensor located on the block was cracked. I got a new one; replaced it but yet the code on the dash is still up. Unhooked battery cable and restarted after hooking back up and same outcome.

idle

iTrader: (5)

Why is this in the Gen IV? Maybe more answers in Gen III?

bfd811

Capping everything is always a good idea. A small slip on rubber cap will do. The coolant thing is kind of confusing. In the 99-02 LS1's the coolant temp sensor was used both to send the engines temp to the computer to adjust fuel trims and also to the dash to show the reading of how hot/cold on the temp gauge. Could be something faulty with the coolant temp sensor but not likely since the temperature on the gauge is correct and the engine is not running rough or throwing a check engine light. Ill try and look at electrical diagrams if I can remember and see what could make that come on. Could be a bad bulb in the dash??? Not 100% sure. Either way if you gauge is not going haywire and is staying steady and in the correct spot (not too hot/too cold) and your not throwing a check engine light I wouldn't really worry about it.