600 rwhp motor build
07-24-2007, 10:23 PM
#1
600 rwhp motor build I am looking to build a engine that will be street driven and taken down the track puts out 600 rwhp n/a and will take a 100 to 150 wet shot of n2o. I was looking at l92 and ls7 short blocks. What is a good shop and what heads to use thanks sean
07-24-2007, 10:39 PM
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i am in the process of doing the same- my mates organised heads from etp or wheel to wheel-one of the other and i think the short is getting done by erick-quote me if i am wrong-hk enterprise's or something-
i am only new on this site-but the problem is who you will choose as there is over 5-10 engine builders+head people on this website from what i have seen-
he told me the above guys are killer and stick to their word's and their work is 2nd to none-
hope that helps-
i am only new on this site-but the problem is who you will choose as there is over 5-10 engine builders+head people on this website from what i have seen-
he told me the above guys are killer and stick to their word's and their work is 2nd to none-
hope that helps-
07-24-2007, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by stmz28
I am looking to build a engine that will be street driven and taken down the track puts out 600 rwhp n/a and will take a 100 to 150 wet shot of n2o. I was looking at l92 and ls7 short blocks. What is a good shop and what heads to use thanks sean
.
07-24-2007, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by njc.corp
i am in the process of doing the same- my mates organised heads from etp or wheel to wheel-one of the other and i think the short is getting done by erick-quote me if i am wrong-hk enterprise's or something-
i am only new on this site-but the problem is who you will choose as there is over 5-10 engine builders+head people on this website from what i have seen-
he told me the above guys are killer and stick to their word's and their work is 2nd to none-
hope that helps-
i am only new on this site-but the problem is who you will choose as there is over 5-10 engine builders+head people on this website from what i have seen-
he told me the above guys are killer and stick to their word's and their work is 2nd to none-
hope that helps-
.
07-25-2007, 07:48 AM
#6
Originally Posted by stmz28
I am looking to build a engine that will be street driven and taken down the track puts out 600 rwhp n/a and will take a 100 to 150 wet shot of n2o. I was looking at l92 and ls7 short blocks. What is a good shop and what heads to use thanks sean
1) Intercooled checkbook/credit card/ or both
2) Displacement
3)Good heads, no check thatm great heads
4)Patience, and perseverence
Honestly my suggestion would be to base it off of a lsx block and go from there. The iron block will make a few more HP everything else being equal and probably be a little cheaper in the long run.
IF you plan on having the engine built for you, find a builder with a good rep. that you trust, tell him what you want and let him come up with a good solid recipe for what you need. IF you let one person take the baby from start to finish, they will have control over everything.
An engine is a combination of parts, not just one or two. The whole thing works together to do what you need.
07-25-2007, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Stang's Bane
What you need for 600 RWHP are in order
1) Intercooled checkbook/credit card/ or both
2) Displacement
3)Good heads, no check thatm great heads
4)Patience, and perseverence
Honestly my suggestion would be to base it off of a lsx block and go from there. The iron block will make a few more HP everything else being equal and probably be a little cheaper in the long run.
IF you plan on having the engine built for you, find a builder with a good rep. that you trust, tell him what you want and let him come up with a good solid recipe for what you need. IF you let one person take the baby from start to finish, they will have control over everything.
An engine is a combination of parts, not just one or two. The whole thing works together to do what you need.
1) Intercooled checkbook/credit card/ or both
2) Displacement
3)Good heads, no check thatm great heads
4)Patience, and perseverence
Honestly my suggestion would be to base it off of a lsx block and go from there. The iron block will make a few more HP everything else being equal and probably be a little cheaper in the long run.
IF you plan on having the engine built for you, find a builder with a good rep. that you trust, tell him what you want and let him come up with a good solid recipe for what you need. IF you let one person take the baby from start to finish, they will have control over everything.
An engine is a combination of parts, not just one or two. The whole thing works together to do what you need.
i thought the lsx block was for xtreme hp
whats the price difference on a l92 block-ls2 cast iron and lsx block?
by all means i am not making fun of anyone-just wanting to know others thoughts as i stated i am in his same shoes-block wise that is-
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07-25-2007, 08:28 AM
#8
You can make the power on a alloy block too. However it is a little easier on a iron block. If the 2 engines are spec'd equal, the iron block motor will make a few more HP.
True, for these power levels, an aluminum block will more than make up for the pwer difference with weight, but the iron block has much more future flexibility and is a little cheaper than a new Darton sleeved block.
True, for these power levels, an aluminum block will more than make up for the pwer difference with weight, but the iron block has much more future flexibility and is a little cheaper than a new Darton sleeved block.
07-25-2007, 07:15 PM
#10
Plan on near 12:1 compression and a big cam to surpass 600rwhp n/a.
That Vengeance setup on the 440 is wild for pump gas.
Beyond 700rwhp the LS1 block seems to lose ring seal with street driven machines after a few thousand hard miles I've noticed on here. Blowby begins and power drops. They take the motor apart... hone, install new rings, and it is good to go for a few more thousand hard street miles. Stock cranks are fine for these setups.
LS2 block is a better design with stronger overall block. Plenty of people are running 1000rwhp forced induction setups with no major issues. Most run stock LS1 cranks (364ci) and forged rods/pistons and the factory LS6 intake/TB with out of the box aftermarket 225cc heads to achieve this power level. There was some data showing that after about 60-80 passes at the 1000rwhp level the upper portion of the piston sleeve can develop stress cracks. This is in a harsh racing environment with tons of abuse. I think Mike Brown posted the pics. But for a $900 block.... that is still very impressive.
Beyond 1000rwhp and you are in the realm of needing an aftermarket block for better reliability. The LS2 would work for a while... There really aren't that many people pushing them that hard and collecting data from any resulting blowups. I don't really think there is any hard evidence that the stock LS1 crank is a weak point at 1200rwhp....
Why not just build a 402 and try to reach 525rwhp and then spray a multistage shot? It will be a bunch cheaper then most other setups. Going beyond 402/416 will start costing some serious coin.
That Vengeance setup on the 440 is wild for pump gas.
Beyond 700rwhp the LS1 block seems to lose ring seal with street driven machines after a few thousand hard miles I've noticed on here. Blowby begins and power drops. They take the motor apart... hone, install new rings, and it is good to go for a few more thousand hard street miles. Stock cranks are fine for these setups.
LS2 block is a better design with stronger overall block. Plenty of people are running 1000rwhp forced induction setups with no major issues. Most run stock LS1 cranks (364ci) and forged rods/pistons and the factory LS6 intake/TB with out of the box aftermarket 225cc heads to achieve this power level. There was some data showing that after about 60-80 passes at the 1000rwhp level the upper portion of the piston sleeve can develop stress cracks. This is in a harsh racing environment with tons of abuse. I think Mike Brown posted the pics. But for a $900 block.... that is still very impressive.
Beyond 1000rwhp and you are in the realm of needing an aftermarket block for better reliability. The LS2 would work for a while... There really aren't that many people pushing them that hard and collecting data from any resulting blowups. I don't really think there is any hard evidence that the stock LS1 crank is a weak point at 1200rwhp....
Why not just build a 402 and try to reach 525rwhp and then spray a multistage shot? It will be a bunch cheaper then most other setups. Going beyond 402/416 will start costing some serious coin.
