View Poll Results: 427 or 416 or solid roller 416
427
47
78.33%
416
7
11.67%
solid roller 416
6
10.00%
Voters: 60. You may not vote on this poll
Katech 427 or L92 416?
#1
Katech 427 or L92 416?
Ok after talking with many people about it I've narrowed it down to a katech 427 or L92 416. AFR's will sit on top. Wich is the better choice and why. Can I run and AFR on the l92?
Money wise it's about a 1700 dollar difference. IS the 427 worth it over the 416. Its possible the 416 might be a solid roller which would then up the costs to probably excede the 427. Would there be a power gain to justify it?
Money wise it's about a 1700 dollar difference. IS the 427 worth it over the 416. Its possible the 416 might be a solid roller which would then up the costs to probably excede the 427. Would there be a power gain to justify it?
#3
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Ok after talking with many people about it I've narrowed it down to a katech 427 or L92 416. AFR's will sit on top. Wich is the better choice and why. Can I run and AFR on the l92?
Money wise it's about a 1700 dollar difference. IS the 427 worth it over the 416. Its possible the 416 might be a solid roller which would then up the costs to probably excede the 427. Would there be a power gain to justify it?
Money wise it's about a 1700 dollar difference. IS the 427 worth it over the 416. Its possible the 416 might be a solid roller which would then up the costs to probably excede the 427. Would there be a power gain to justify it?
The AFRs will work with either. I have a 416, but unforntunately it had some issues. Cylinder/ring problem - just happened on mine. It is back at SDPC for evaluation. The problems have nothing to do with the combination, just one of those things that happens sometime.
Either engine will make a lot of power and torque.
#5
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Is this for a race car or a street driven car? If it is a car you will drive on the street a lot I would keep it a hydraulic roller.
Setting valves on a street car is a hassle.
I would build what ever motor cost the least and if it is a $1,700 difference you could invest that money into something else, electronics, fuel system or your saving account LOL.
11 cubic inches isn't much for $1,700.00
Also whats the bore and stroke and rod length?
What's the max bore you can go on that block? what's the max stroke you can go on that block? what's the longest rod you can fit with each setup?
Personally I wouldn't run something at max bore or max stroke for a few extra cubic inches or run the block at zero deck, I'd leave the piston in the hole at least .010 for a rebuild.
I would try to keep the rod as long as possible, a lot of stroker combos are really hard on the cylinder walls.
Setting valves on a street car is a hassle.
I would build what ever motor cost the least and if it is a $1,700 difference you could invest that money into something else, electronics, fuel system or your saving account LOL.
11 cubic inches isn't much for $1,700.00
Also whats the bore and stroke and rod length?
What's the max bore you can go on that block? what's the max stroke you can go on that block? what's the longest rod you can fit with each setup?
Personally I wouldn't run something at max bore or max stroke for a few extra cubic inches or run the block at zero deck, I'd leave the piston in the hole at least .010 for a rebuild.
I would try to keep the rod as long as possible, a lot of stroker combos are really hard on the cylinder walls.
#6
The Katech 427 is a 4.125 bore sleeved ls2 4" stroke the 416 is 4.07 bore with the 4" stroke. Both use 6.125 rods. Staying with the 4" to keep the rpm's up. Katech does have 3.819 stroke crank as well. The case is a 4.055 rough finish so I can make any bore to 4.125 I want I guess if I go with a sleeved ls2. The idea of the L92 is to save money on almost equal hp and the same torque. The solid roller is for the want of a nasty nasty cam.
I dont get time to get to the track when it's open. I'm always tinkering on it anyway, dont mind the lash adj or spring swaps assoc with the soild.
Basicaly an all out race motor in a weekend warrior car.
I dont get time to get to the track when it's open. I'm always tinkering on it anyway, dont mind the lash adj or spring swaps assoc with the soild.
Basicaly an all out race motor in a weekend warrior car.
Last edited by 99blancoSS; 12-14-2007 at 11:35 AM.
#7
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i don't have much experience with either motor, but "IF IT WERE ME".....i think i'd do the L92 416 with CNC'd L92 heads. those heads flow outrageous amounts of air for a factory casting. how much power are you looking to make?
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#8
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iTrader: (32)
Is the 416 sleeved by Katech as well, or does it utilize stock GM sleeves? Remember, when those blocks first came out there were some pics on here of some problems with the thickness of the sleeves.
The Katech 427 looks like a real nice piece. Top it off with AFR 225's or TFS 225's or 235's and you'll have a great engine.
How much power are you looking for?
The Katech 427 looks like a real nice piece. Top it off with AFR 225's or TFS 225's or 235's and you'll have a great engine.
How much power are you looking for?
#9
I'd like 540+ 470+ torque through my drivetrain. I want this to be the last. The 347 was out of budget needs or it would have been a 402 at the time. Selling my current combo offests some of the costs. The cheaper way out is the 416 obviously but will I be saying damn it I wish I had gone 427.
#16
The 418 won't have any issues with sleeves. MOST stay put but when they don't, it's a royal pain and takes a complete rebuild to get straightened out. You're only adding .060 in bore diameter which means squat in terms of valve unshrouding. Another thing, .1 stroke difference isn't going to make a bit of difference in being able to rev, stroke it to 427 with some flat tops and CNC'd L-92 heads and you'll be money ahead with very similar performance and you'll have some cash in your pocket for other go-fast goodies. I watched one with a moderate hydraulic roller (230's duration at .050) make 625+ fwhp, that'll hit your target at the rear wheels and still be streetable. Put a nasty one in it and you'll be bumping 550 rwhp.
These engines can handle some big hydraulic rollers and can rev close to 7 grand with the right stuff - you get most of the benefits of a solid roller without having the problems associated with 'em. Does anyone make a solid roller that's proven itself to be street-durable? It's not quite as easy to make lash adjustments on these as the old small blocks and big blocks - everything has to come off and out of the way and every time you pull a valve cover, you take a chance of introducing dirt, etc. into your engine. Is it worth all the trouble and worry and $$$ to pick up 50hp or so? Personally, I don't think so, I'd build the 427 and add a 150 shot with the money you save.
By the way, it won't be your last...once you get used to this, you'll want more. It's part of the disease. Maybe by that time the raised cam LSX block will be out and you can go to 500 cubes
These engines can handle some big hydraulic rollers and can rev close to 7 grand with the right stuff - you get most of the benefits of a solid roller without having the problems associated with 'em. Does anyone make a solid roller that's proven itself to be street-durable? It's not quite as easy to make lash adjustments on these as the old small blocks and big blocks - everything has to come off and out of the way and every time you pull a valve cover, you take a chance of introducing dirt, etc. into your engine. Is it worth all the trouble and worry and $$$ to pick up 50hp or so? Personally, I don't think so, I'd build the 427 and add a 150 shot with the money you save.
By the way, it won't be your last...once you get used to this, you'll want more. It's part of the disease. Maybe by that time the raised cam LSX block will be out and you can go to 500 cubes
Last edited by Busted Knuckles; 12-14-2007 at 05:40 PM.
#17
Arent there issues with the 4.100 stroke though? Havent I read some stuff about pin hieght? Also they dont seem to be putting out what some of the 4.125 bore 427's I've seen do. That was the whole reason for the Katech 427. Reputation. I didnt want a sleeved motor but it's Katech.
And for sake of keeping it neutral I wont mention the other builder, and then there is a 3rd well respected person as well(not EK..lol).
And for sake of keeping it neutral I wont mention the other builder, and then there is a 3rd well respected person as well(not EK..lol).
#19
combing from 4 cyc and 6 cyc engines-i agree that their is no replacement for displacement-
the roar and pulling power-nothing comes close to cubes-
the katech ls2/sleeve 427 is a very nice/trick piece of gear-
the roar and pulling power-nothing comes close to cubes-
the katech ls2/sleeve 427 is a very nice/trick piece of gear-
#20