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rearend ppl chime in
ok i have read the sticky and searched around also and i know how weak the 10 bolt is but my ? is if i keep my 10 bolt and put like a set of (moser, or mark williams) axles,spoolor a good differential like eaton or detroit, will the 10 bolt still be crapy or will doing that make a strong 10 bolt, i know its a small rearend end and 12 bolt is what i will get but if this would keep the 10 bolt alive i would like to keep it... thanks
Last edited by aksz71; 11-13-2008 at 04:47 AM.
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so 1,000 for the 9" with axles, then still gotta get a center section which will be around 1200 then still gotta do the brakes on top of that!! a damn rearend is going to cost as much as i got in the bottom end of my sbc.
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after replacing 3 ring and pinions and 1 diff...I finnally spent the money on a 9" from Bob@EPP. Now was I trying to make my rear strong...No, I just simply didnt have the money to get the 9", but when I did, I didnt hesitate for one second. So here is the best advice...If you have to rely on the car, treat it like a baby, if its a toy..have fun and break it, let it sit and fix it later. Some people have luck with their 10bolt, but the majority of us dont! So dont listen to people saying it will hold, because it could break with stock power..or hold with 600hp, kinda weird huh?
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after replacing 3 ring and pinions and 1 diff...I finnally spent the money on a 9" from Bob@EPP. Now was I trying to make my rear strong...No, I just simply didnt have the money to get the 9", but when I did, I didnt hesitate for one second. So here is the best advice...If you have to rely on the car, treat it like a baby, if its a toy..have fun and break it, let it sit and fix it later. Some people have luck with their 10bolt, but the majority of us dont! So dont listen to people saying it will hold, because it could break with stock power..or hold with 600hp, kinda weird huh?
#13
after replacing 3 ring and pinions and 1 diff...I finnally spent the money on a 9" from Bob@EPP. Now was I trying to make my rear strong...No, I just simply didnt have the money to get the 9", but when I did, I didnt hesitate for one second. So here is the best advice...If you have to rely on the car, treat it like a baby, if its a toy..have fun and break it, let it sit and fix it later. Some people have luck with their 10bolt, but the majority of us dont! So dont listen to people saying it will hold, because it could break with stock power..or hold with 600hp, kinda weird huh?
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A 8.5 inch 10 bolt has about an 1/8 difference in the ring gear then a 12 bolt, and both if properly built can easily hold about 600hp with slicks.
I believe 4th gen F-bodys have the 8.2 inch 10 bolt which can get close to 500hp. So I would skip this one.
8.5 inch 10 bolts are very very common from 70's trucks and most cars.
9 inchs very very good and they work better with gears higher then 4.56
Dana or S-60 the biggest of all the gears, and in stock for by far the strongest. I ran a 1973 dana in my F-250 with about 650 horse on the bottle, and I only changed the fluid. Plus it was my tow vehicle for a couple of years so it got abused both ways.
I believe 4th gen F-bodys have the 8.2 inch 10 bolt which can get close to 500hp. So I would skip this one.
8.5 inch 10 bolts are very very common from 70's trucks and most cars.
9 inchs very very good and they work better with gears higher then 4.56
Dana or S-60 the biggest of all the gears, and in stock for by far the strongest. I ran a 1973 dana in my F-250 with about 650 horse on the bottle, and I only changed the fluid. Plus it was my tow vehicle for a couple of years so it got abused both ways.
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If your not planning on sticky tire or big hp. YOu can try building up your 10bolt I have done a couple for under 500 each and I am planning another one fully loaded with aftermarket gear, diff, and axles for under $800 soon, but Im only running 350rwhp