gen3performance

iTrader: (9)

Sorry to bother you guys with another main bolt thread but hear me out.

I have my LSX blocked 427 all assembled in my truck but not completely hooked up. Now I have changed my mind on the factory main bolts and want to run ARP studs since I may end up spraying. Taking the engine out is not a problem.


My question is
1. Do I just screw the studs in and go.

2. Possibly loosen rockers, push the pistons down toward the heads, and try to get the crank out to check roundness with studs.

3. Forget about the studs.

I do know i should have had the block line honed with the studs in the first place, but I am trying to get away from bare blocking this thing. Also, the LSX probably has the stoutest lower end of all LS series blocks.

JPH

iTrader: (2)

1. Yes and No.
2. Whose crank and why?
3. IMO yes! The studs won't make the motor blow up, faulty tune or bad part will!

novaflash2002

iTrader: (51)

from what it looks like you have already spent some money in this, so why not go all the way and put the arp studs, or bolts in. its insurance

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

I would have put arp's in there to begain with. But I see no reason to beleive the stock studs/bolts will fail either. They were new right?

novaflash2002

iTrader: (51)

you would think that, but you see now that you are questioning that idea. i would put arp in for cheap insurance.

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

I am glad the other guys understood you, as I sure dont. Are you asking about MAIN studs? HEAD studs? or BOTH?

If you are talking about HEAD studs, then yes, all you have to do is pop th old bolts out and put the studs in. If you are talking about MAIN studs, it is in your best interest to have teh block line honed.

And YES, I would use ARP studs, and would never ever in a million years think about using factory fasteners when doing a performance build.

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

But stock fasteners will

Corey @ Clayton Racing

Switching to studs CAN change the roundness of the mains, it might not, but it can. When we line hone motors they are done with the fastners that are going to be used and at the torque setting they will be used at.

Robin L

I don't know how much you might spray.

If it's less than 300 leave it alone.

If you install the ARP studs I would take it down to bare and line hone with the new studs.

Robin

gen3performance

iTrader: (9)

Sorry for the confusion. Let me elaborate. I am talking about the main bolts only.

Option 1. Screw em in and look the other way.

Option 2. Take the main caps off and try and get the crankshaft out of the engine without taking the heads off. I would attempt this by loosening the rocker arms and pushing the rods and pistons towards the heads. Hopefully I could get the crankshaft out at that point. If it works I would tighten the caps with the studs and check the roundness. If roundness is good, I'm set. If not, then I'm bareblocking it again.

Option 3. Just use the stock bolts that came with the LSX block that are in the engine now.

I am guessing the engine will be 600 to 700 hp NA. With spray I would assume 750 to 850 hp.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

I wouldn't use stock main cap bolts on a 850hp build, and I wouldn't just screw them in and go. IMO, it would be easier to take the motor out and align hone it with the studs installed. I wouldn't recommend re-assembling the engine while it's still in the car.

DAVESS02

iTrader: (30)

My machinist and most in the know around here are adamant about a line hone with studs. Pulling it down and doing it right will be a lot cheaper then spun bearings.

pmj341

I Agree with doing it right, remove the engine and line hone it after you install the studs.
It's all about Peace of MIND!!!!

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

There, I fixed it for ya.....
Option 2 is what I would do

gen3performance

iTrader: (9)

Huh...that makes it alot easier to decide. All right guys thanks for the help!