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Few questions swaping motor in a 98t/a with 02 vett ls1.

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Old 02-09-2009, 01:13 AM
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Default Few questions swaping motor in a 98t/a with 02 vett ls1.

ok so ive had a spare long block sitting around my garage for about 1 year . and i recently picked up a 98 trans am ..

other that oil pan is there anything different from the 2 blocks? can i just pull all sensors and accs from the t/a ls1 and bolt em up to the vette block ?

any differences in the 2 ?

just curios dnt want to pull everything apart and have to do it 2x ..
and i knw most pull the engines from the bottom but how hard is it to pull it from the top .. thanks for the info ..
Old 02-09-2009, 03:31 AM
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Just swap sensor from motor to motor and drop it in... Oil pan and I think accesories brackets are the only differences...
Old 02-09-2009, 09:41 AM
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Blocks are identical.

Drop it out the bottom...trust me.
Old 02-09-2009, 10:12 AM
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You'll either need a retune or a PCM and wiring harness out of an '01/'02 fbody (or re-pin your harness). Different cams in those cars and timing was much lower. We're talking 18* of timing in the mid-range WOT vs. the 28~29* mid-range WOT that you're running now with your '98.
Old 02-09-2009, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
You'll either need a retune or a PCM and wiring harness out of an '01/'02 fbody (or re-pin your harness). Different cams in those cars and timing was much lower. We're talking 18* of timing in the mid-range WOT vs. the 28~29* mid-range WOT that you're running now with your '98.
I dropped an '01 5.3 in my '99 SS and didn't touch the tune at all. The car runs great. While it's best to retune the car, but I think that the LS1 PCM is capable of recalibrating for the new cam.
Old 02-09-2009, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
I dropped an '01 5.3 in my '99 SS and didn't touch the tune at all. The car runs great. While it's best to retune the car, but I think that the LS1 PCM is capable of recalibrating for the new cam.
The only real learning the PCM does is with idle airflow and part throttle fueling (and to some minor extent, WOT fueling). The car doesn't recal or learn timing in the same fashion. The knock sensors will pull timing only after knock has been detected. From that point on, it will be in a constant state of trying to achieve max timing only to be held back by reoccuring knock.

I apologize for feeling it's not appropriate to recommend that it's OK to run 10* more timing so his engine is constantly detonating at anything over 40~50% throttle. Next time, I'll ask what everyone else has done on a whim and see how their stuff has held up over time.

Last edited by SSpdDmon; 02-09-2009 at 01:04 PM.
Old 02-09-2009, 01:23 PM
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i was planinng on installing a cam and new head gaskets and rod bolts ..as well as long tubes a cai ls6 manifold and ported tb and a high rpm stall

so im might as well tune it after ward ..

what heads should i put in the block ? the stock t/a heads or the 853 from the vette?
is there a write up on how to pull the motor from the bottom ? im doing it on my drive ways so this might tbe a bitch .. thanx
Old 02-09-2009, 01:35 PM
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The vette should have 241 heads. I'd use those over the 853's.
Old 02-09-2009, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by randomnine7
i was planinng on installing a cam and new head gaskets and rod bolts ..as well as long tubes a cai ls6 manifold and ported tb and a high rpm stall

so im might as well tune it after ward ..

what heads should i put in the block ? the stock t/a heads or the 853 from the vette?
is there a write up on how to pull the motor from the bottom ? im doing it on my drive ways so this might tbe a bitch .. thanx
Your '98 TA should have 806 castings with perimeter bolt valve covers. I would use the 853's (you sure they are 853's and not 241's?) from the vette long block. That would require center bolt valve covers, and the '99+ coil packs and brackets.

The differences between 853's and 241's is in the finishing process, they are identical castings but the 241's have a slightly better finish, but performance differences are negligible.

I may be mistaken, but I was under the impression that if you swapped rod bolts for some, lets say some ARP rod bolts, that you had to recondition the rods.
Old 02-09-2009, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
Your '98 TA should have 806 castings with perimeter bolt valve covers. I would use the 853's (you sure they are 853's and not 241's?) from the vette long block. That would require center bolt valve covers, and the '99+ coil packs and brackets.

The differences between 853's and 241's is in the finishing process, they are identical castings but the 241's have a slightly better finish, but performance differences are negligible.

I may be mistaken, but I was under the impression that if you swapped rod bolts for some, lets say some ARP rod bolts, that you had to recondition the rods.
The rod bolt swap is a big controversy on here but the safest way to go is use Katechs and do the swap one bolt at a time so the caps never get loose and nothing moves. Katechs are almost identical in size and weight of the stockers where ARP are actually much larger.
Old 02-10-2009, 01:14 AM
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yeah i was planing on using the katech bolts since i wasent trying to have any machine work done and it turns out the block is aearly 00 so it does have 853 casting heads .. i might just get them milled and a mild port on them or may buy a ls6 heads .

anyone have any info on pulling the engine out from the bottom or a website with pics and details ?
Old 02-10-2009, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by randomnine7
yeah i was planing on using the katech bolts since i wasent trying to have any machine work done and it turns out the block is aearly 00 so it does have 853 casting heads .. i might just get them milled and a mild port on them or may buy a ls6 heads .

anyone have any info on pulling the engine out from the bottom or a website with pics and details ?
Here is one, it's for a '94, but the procedure is almost identical for a LS1.
http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html

If you want a nice book that has step by step instructions with pictures on how to drop out a LS1, go to AutoZone and buy How to Build High-Performance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8's. Most big AZ's will have it next to the engine manual rack. It's a great book! Read it cover to cover, you'll learn a lot.
Old 02-10-2009, 06:48 PM
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yeah i actually seen it a few days ago and was thinking of buying it ,, i will nnow




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