zflewbyu

Does anyone know the length and size of the stock crank pulley bolt? Thanks

slowandrichws6

iTrader: (2)

i dont know how long it is but is a 24mm

massls1guy

iTrader: (9)

M16x2.0x103. What are you doing? There was a recent post about a guy breaking a threaded rod in his crank. So be careful.

If you are installing a damper you could buy one of these for no worries:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fab...tool-pics.html

zflewbyu

yea i read that so when im done doin my cam swap im putting all new bolts in everything so i don't end up running into the same prob

jrpimp00

iTrader: (17)

^^^ Like he said^^^You might want to use threaded rod to pull it back on or the install tool by 618hawk just to be safe. Dont pull it on with the bolt, not even a new one.

04gtoBMXracer

iTrader: (26)

ouch!!! expensive mistake.

zflewbyu

what do you use for the rod setup,just thread a threaded rod into the crank and then get a nut to pull the pulley back on? And i was also reading about people heating the pulley to slide it on how well does that work?

patriotformula

iTrader: (28)

Heating it up has always worked great for me! Especially in the winter when the crank is cold...

I always heat the crank up in the oven to about 350-400 degrees for 20 minutes then put on some fire gloves and run it out to the garage and throw it on the crank... usually slides right on. Not everyone wants to put it in the oven, luckily I have an extra oven hooked up in the oven for this purpose.

Another option is just heating it with a propane torch, just dont get it red hot as that can damage the seal... The lower temperature you can keep it at and still slide it on the crank the better!

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Careful with heat, the harmonic damper uses a rubber compound to provide the damping properties required to protect the internal components. Too much heat could damage the characteristics of this damper.

You use the threaded rod and some nuts and washers to push the damper back onto the crank. Make sure the rod is threaded all the way into the crank, then back it out 1/2 turn.

Not sure why you are shopping for a bolt other than GM or ARP. The preload on this bolt is critical. Using any old bolt could result in problems down the road if the preload is not correct. The preload of this bolt also aids in turning the timing chain so I wouldn't stray too far from what is available (GM or ARP).

eseibel67

iTrader: (10)

The 618hawk tool is a nice piece, and good value for the amount of work it is to make one.

But is this a simpler solution:

Plan to do the install on a cold day so the crank is small as possible.

Warm up the balancer to 250* in the oven (no chance of heat damage to rubber or seal because crank will get hotter than this under normal driving conditions).

Pull balancer on with M16-2.0 that is LONGER than the stock 103mm. Also use 2 washers with lots of grease to reduce rotational friction.

Certainly once the longer bolt has gripped on to 6 full threads of the crankshaft, it can be removed and you can let your new 103mm bolt finish the job.

If anyone has done this, what length bolt would be ideal? I plan on doing my first LS1 cam swap next month.

vsocks1

iTrader: (6)

Not sure why you don't want to buy or make the tool. Also, I would not use the new bolt to "finish the job". The GM bolt is not reusable and I would be concerned about pre-stressing it.

eseibel67

iTrader: (10)

Thanks, vsocks1.

I will make one to ensure full control of the press.