4l80 pressure problem/soft shift problem
04-03-2009, 08:27 AM
#1
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Shawnee KS
Posts: 498
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
4l80 pressure problem/soft shift problem I have a 96 4l80 that I installed a couple months back, I rebuilt it myself before it went in as the forwards/direct were TOAST when I got the core, and the other frictions looked well heated. Rebuilt it with a off the shelf kit and reybestos frictions/new steels. Also installed Trinity's MVB conversion and transbreak, and an Edge Racing 3500 stall that was supposed to let me use the stock flex plate on the 5.3.
Everything worked GREAT for 500-600 miles, hard shifts at WOT, firm at part throttle if you kept the RPMs lower then 2000, no delay, car pulled hard and worked well.
Went out one day to beat on the car a little, and noticed a delay on a WOT 2-3 shift, enough time to move the lever, lookedd down at the lever, then the shift, same firmness as before.
Do a burn out, turn around and go back to where I started, shifted to reverse to back up, and back to 1st, drove 15ft and the front seal in the pump pushed out. Got a tow, droped the trans, found out that the pilot on the converter was not engauging into the back of the crank(too short), so the converter was slightly offcenter. The bushing in the pump was grooved, and the hub had to be replaced on the converter. The converter was sent back to have a longer pilot welded on, and get the hub replaced.
After a 5 week turn around, I got the converter back, I had already repalced the bushing/seal in the pump while waiting, put the car back together, and now I had a 2-3 second delay from when you move the lever from park to reverse, once it grabbed, it was firm, for a while, after 20-30 miles it would barily grab reverse.
Forward gears, 1/2shift was delayed now, 1-2 seconds, and was a soft shift, WOT 1/2 it would try to grab second, but wouldnt, I could left, have it grab the gear, and roll back into the throttle. 2-3 was quick, but not nearly as firm as before. After noticing the problem, and making my way home the pump started to whine and the tranny started feeling worse, slipping/slow/soft engaugement, had just enough to make it home.
Dropped the trans out, found OD burned up, the rest of the clutches loosing material in the center, and the steels had blue spots.
I replaced the steels, added a 6th clutch to the direct, and have alto reds in the direct/forward/intermidate, the wider high energy 1-2 band, high energy frictions in the overrun, od, and the rear band. I again used stock frictions. Installed a new filter/seal to case, new VB gaskets, and checked to make sure the valves in the VB were freely moving.
Re installed the transmission, it works, but still a delayed 1-2 shift, and it is soft as well as the other shifts, wont complete a shift at WOT, so back to the house, and got to put a pressure gauge on it.
Fluid warmed, pressure would read 100 it idle, 200 off idle, and the same pressure when in gear, but when you change a gear, like Park to First, the gauge would drop to 0 and slowly build back up as the gear engauged. I decided to take the car around the block to see what the pressure does while it was shifting, pressure was now at 150 and would drop to 75 or so on each shift. After it was back in the driveway the pressure fell to 75 PSI, and will not go above that at all. Select first, and pressure will just sit at 0 for 2-3 seconds before it grabs the gear. Reverse grabs quicker now, but pressure is still at a constant 75, after it drops selecting the gear.
Trinity's kit had me remove 2 check ***** for firmer 1-2 2-3 shifts (3 total in the trans now), and install a spacer below the PR spring in the pump, I did the spacer when I rebuilt it the 2nd time.
Could the converter problem have damaged the pump, causing a low line pressure issue, causing the slow/soft shifts? I am going to try and find a new pump locally today and get it in there, as the VB seems to work as freely as it did when I first built the trans. Also the shifter is selecting the gear cleanly, and is not hanging up between two gears.
Everything worked GREAT for 500-600 miles, hard shifts at WOT, firm at part throttle if you kept the RPMs lower then 2000, no delay, car pulled hard and worked well.
Went out one day to beat on the car a little, and noticed a delay on a WOT 2-3 shift, enough time to move the lever, lookedd down at the lever, then the shift, same firmness as before.
Do a burn out, turn around and go back to where I started, shifted to reverse to back up, and back to 1st, drove 15ft and the front seal in the pump pushed out. Got a tow, droped the trans, found out that the pilot on the converter was not engauging into the back of the crank(too short), so the converter was slightly offcenter. The bushing in the pump was grooved, and the hub had to be replaced on the converter. The converter was sent back to have a longer pilot welded on, and get the hub replaced.
After a 5 week turn around, I got the converter back, I had already repalced the bushing/seal in the pump while waiting, put the car back together, and now I had a 2-3 second delay from when you move the lever from park to reverse, once it grabbed, it was firm, for a while, after 20-30 miles it would barily grab reverse.
Forward gears, 1/2shift was delayed now, 1-2 seconds, and was a soft shift, WOT 1/2 it would try to grab second, but wouldnt, I could left, have it grab the gear, and roll back into the throttle. 2-3 was quick, but not nearly as firm as before. After noticing the problem, and making my way home the pump started to whine and the tranny started feeling worse, slipping/slow/soft engaugement, had just enough to make it home.
Dropped the trans out, found OD burned up, the rest of the clutches loosing material in the center, and the steels had blue spots.
I replaced the steels, added a 6th clutch to the direct, and have alto reds in the direct/forward/intermidate, the wider high energy 1-2 band, high energy frictions in the overrun, od, and the rear band. I again used stock frictions. Installed a new filter/seal to case, new VB gaskets, and checked to make sure the valves in the VB were freely moving.
Re installed the transmission, it works, but still a delayed 1-2 shift, and it is soft as well as the other shifts, wont complete a shift at WOT, so back to the house, and got to put a pressure gauge on it.
Fluid warmed, pressure would read 100 it idle, 200 off idle, and the same pressure when in gear, but when you change a gear, like Park to First, the gauge would drop to 0 and slowly build back up as the gear engauged. I decided to take the car around the block to see what the pressure does while it was shifting, pressure was now at 150 and would drop to 75 or so on each shift. After it was back in the driveway the pressure fell to 75 PSI, and will not go above that at all. Select first, and pressure will just sit at 0 for 2-3 seconds before it grabs the gear. Reverse grabs quicker now, but pressure is still at a constant 75, after it drops selecting the gear.
Trinity's kit had me remove 2 check ***** for firmer 1-2 2-3 shifts (3 total in the trans now), and install a spacer below the PR spring in the pump, I did the spacer when I rebuilt it the 2nd time.
Could the converter problem have damaged the pump, causing a low line pressure issue, causing the slow/soft shifts? I am going to try and find a new pump locally today and get it in there, as the VB seems to work as freely as it did when I first built the trans. Also the shifter is selecting the gear cleanly, and is not hanging up between two gears.
04-05-2009, 03:45 AM
#3
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Shawnee KS
Posts: 498
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yep its still in the car, what readings would you like? After it engauges the gear, or is in nutral/reverse/park for a few seconds the pressure is ~75. I am currently trying to find a good pump to put in, looks like the cheapest is to order one online.
04-17-2009, 08:24 PM
#5
I had severe pressure issues with the Trinity manual VB kit with transbrake.
No matter what I did we had some pressure spiking issues with reverse that caused reverse to engage and disengage.
I believe it is a design flaw with the way the torque signal circuit is used but I spent more than enough time trying to figure it out.
Another vendors transbrake fixed the reverse pressure problems.
You are actually the first person I've heard of that actually got the setup to function at all. Do you have the brake also or just the MVB?
Myself and two other professional builders had issues with the brake setup as well as a tech member.
No matter what I did we had some pressure spiking issues with reverse that caused reverse to engage and disengage.
I believe it is a design flaw with the way the torque signal circuit is used but I spent more than enough time trying to figure it out.
Another vendors transbrake fixed the reverse pressure problems.
You are actually the first person I've heard of that actually got the setup to function at all. Do you have the brake also or just the MVB?
Myself and two other professional builders had issues with the brake setup as well as a tech member.
04-18-2009, 12:48 AM
#6
Closed ex-Sponsor Account
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Az
Posts: 434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had severe pressure issues with the Trinity manual VB kit with transbrake.
No matter what I did we had some pressure spiking issues with reverse that caused reverse to engage and disengage.
I believe it is a design flaw with the way the torque signal circuit is used but I spent more than enough time trying to figure it out.
Another vendors transbrake fixed the reverse pressure problems.
You are actually the first person I've heard of that actually got the setup to function at all. Do you have the brake also or just the MVB?
Myself and two other professional builders had issues with the brake setup as well as a tech member.
No matter what I did we had some pressure spiking issues with reverse that caused reverse to engage and disengage.
I believe it is a design flaw with the way the torque signal circuit is used but I spent more than enough time trying to figure it out.
Another vendors transbrake fixed the reverse pressure problems.
You are actually the first person I've heard of that actually got the setup to function at all. Do you have the brake also or just the MVB?
Myself and two other professional builders had issues with the brake setup as well as a tech member.
04-18-2009, 02:49 AM
#7
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Shawnee KS
Posts: 498
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just to clear things up, I did not update this thread yet, but IT WORKS! I wanted to be easy on it, and then beat on it pretty good to make sure every thing looked good. ~500-600 miles now.
I'm guessing my converter issue from the get go damaged the pump. I went back through it, and replaced every bushing, every teflon seal, every lip seal, and put a new pump in that had the updated spring. Also replaced the valvebody gaskets, and made sure the 2 holes that have to be added where clean and would not hinder flow.
First fire up, pressure was good, 175ish in all gears, but reverse would hit low 200s. After it warmed up, I think the gauge failed, as pressures were reading 35 in all gears and 75 in reverse. I decided to drive the car, at first, same problem, delays going into reverse, no WOT 1-2 and very soft 1-2. After 10 miles the trans started to work like it should.
40-50 WOT 1-2-3 gear passes, its still good, fluid looks new.
I still have yet to try the trans break, it is installed, just have not wired a button up yet.
I'm guessing my converter issue from the get go damaged the pump. I went back through it, and replaced every bushing, every teflon seal, every lip seal, and put a new pump in that had the updated spring. Also replaced the valvebody gaskets, and made sure the 2 holes that have to be added where clean and would not hinder flow.
First fire up, pressure was good, 175ish in all gears, but reverse would hit low 200s. After it warmed up, I think the gauge failed, as pressures were reading 35 in all gears and 75 in reverse. I decided to drive the car, at first, same problem, delays going into reverse, no WOT 1-2 and very soft 1-2. After 10 miles the trans started to work like it should.
40-50 WOT 1-2-3 gear passes, its still good, fluid looks new.
I still have yet to try the trans break, it is installed, just have not wired a button up yet.
Trending Topics
04-18-2009, 07:20 AM
#8
[QUOTE=MaxxMitchell;11450971]
First fire up, pressure was good, 175ish in all gears, but reverse would hit low 200s. After it warmed up, I think the gauge failed, as pressures were reading 35 in all gears and 75 in reverse. I decided to drive the car, at first, same problem, delays going into reverse, no WOT 1-2 and very soft 1-2. After 10 miles the trans started to work like it should.
[QUOTE]
The warmed up trans pressure issues sound pretty familiar.
I'm glad you got it to work and hope it continues to work well for you.
First fire up, pressure was good, 175ish in all gears, but reverse would hit low 200s. After it warmed up, I think the gauge failed, as pressures were reading 35 in all gears and 75 in reverse. I decided to drive the car, at first, same problem, delays going into reverse, no WOT 1-2 and very soft 1-2. After 10 miles the trans started to work like it should.
[QUOTE]
The warmed up trans pressure issues sound pretty familiar.
I'm glad you got it to work and hope it continues to work well for you.
04-18-2009, 07:44 AM
#9
Jim,
I'll play...
I work offshore for 3 weeks at time (50% of the time) on ROV's. A little bit of an explanation.
I work on a vehicle that is entirely hydraulic, controlled by electronics and the stuff has to work at up to 10,000 feet deep.
Yes it actually has to work, more than I can say for your transbrake setup.
I don't think the other two guys who have had issues with it want to get involved but one is a sponsor here who builds them day in and day out for a living, and the other builder I spoke to that had issues also builds nothing but performance units for a living.
I've been building transmissions for about 15 yrs now as well as being an ASE master certified tech, master engine machinist, L1, not to mention several years of college education.
I spent over a yr building nothing but performance GM automatics out of my shop, which I run 100% of the time now even when I'm not here.
The offshore job keeps the family covered with medical insurance, the shop pays the bills and keeps 3 people employed full time.
I quit building full time and left for a year to go work in Iraq (twice) because being a mercenary pays better than building transmissions and is more exciting most days.
Here's a question for you,
why do you run your business through Randy's as a front?
By the way what's the address to ship your junk back to you, do you want the VB since you owe me one?
There are about half a dozen Tech guys who are my customers. I've done a few 4L80s and TH400s.
I don't mess with too many 4L60Es so for the most part this isn't my demographic so I'm not as well known here but I have a known reputation for my builds on other sites as well as among several performance trans rebuilders. Some I do warranty work for locally to save shipping.
Call BTE and ask them about the fucked up converter they sold me ( and wouldn't fix) several years ago. Get an estimate on the lost sales for that one....
IMO,
If 3 professional builders can't get your stuff to work, something is wrong, and chances are it's not ALL 3 of the builders.
Did you change something between the time the above customer bought his and you sold the rest?
Because there is definitely an issue with the reverse pressure, slow to engage cold or warm, pressures going up and down, and reverse going in and out.
A CKPerformance brake fixed the pressure issue. The trans is on the bench to see what got injured with your setup before I turn it loose again.
When I bought your transbrake you were fine with me posting pics and giving feedback here. Now you seem to not want it since the feedback involves bad news.
Do you want me to reiterate the mismachined parts, the VB you sent that I had to fix, the fact yo don't want to refund shipping on a failed product, etc.
I really don't care if I eat the cost, I make enough that $500-600 isn't going to break the bank, but if I eat it, the number of forums I get on and post feedback increases exponentially.
Last edited by jakeshoe; 04-18-2009 at 07:51 AM.
04-18-2009, 09:17 AM
#10
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Shawnee KS
Posts: 498
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So what is failing/happening when others are using the transbreak with the FMVB set up? I would like to use it, but not if the car is going to move when engauging, or burn something up.
I'm glad what I have now is working, I just want it to stay that way.
I'm glad what I have now is working, I just want it to stay that way.
04-19-2009, 11:16 PM
#12
Closed ex-Sponsor Account
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Az
Posts: 434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jim,
I'll play...
I work offshore for 3 weeks at time (50% of the time) on ROV's. A little bit of an explanation.
I work on a vehicle that is entirely hydraulic, controlled by electronics and the stuff has to work at up to 10,000 feet deep.
Yes it actually has to work, more than I can say for your transbrake setup.
I don't think the other two guys who have had issues with it want to get involved but one is a sponsor here who builds them day in and day out for a living, and the other builder I spoke to that had issues also builds nothing but performance units for a living.
I've been building transmissions for about 15 yrs now as well as being an ASE master certified tech, master engine machinist, L1, not to mention several years of college education.
I spent over a yr building nothing but performance GM automatics out of my shop, which I run 100% of the time now even when I'm not here.
The offshore job keeps the family covered with medical insurance, the shop pays the bills and keeps 3 people employed full time.
I quit building full time and left for a year to go work in Iraq (twice) because being a mercenary pays better than building transmissions and is more exciting most days.
Here's a question for you,
why do you run your business through Randy's as a front?
By the way what's the address to ship your junk back to you, do you want the VB since you owe me one?
Randy's is a partner who is getting into this business, and to be honest it is do to a divorce that this is run through him.
There are about half a dozen Tech guys who are my customers. I've done a few 4L80s and TH400s.
I don't mess with too many 4L60Es so for the most part this isn't my demographic so I'm not as well known here but I have a known reputation for my builds on other sites as well as among several performance trans rebuilders. Some I do warranty work for locally to save shipping.
Call BTE and ask them about the fucked up converter they sold me ( and wouldn't fix) several years ago. Get an estimate on the lost sales for that one....
IMO,
If 3 professional builders can't get your stuff to work, something is wrong, and chances are it's not ALL 3 of the builders.
Did you change something between the time the above customer bought his and you sold the rest?
Nothing has changed.
Because there is definitely an issue with the reverse pressure, slow to engage cold or warm, pressures going up and down, and reverse going in and out.
A CKPerformance brake fixed the pressure issue. The trans is on the bench to see what got injured with your setup before I turn it loose again.
CK performance is running one of my Transbrakes with no problems. Also Kris is the one making the parts.
When I bought your transbrake you were fine with me posting pics and giving feedback here. Now you seem to not want it since the feedback involves bad news.
Do you want me to reiterate the mismachined parts, the VB you sent that I had to fix, the fact yo don't want to refund shipping on a failed product, etc.
I really don't care if I eat the cost, I make enough that $500-600 isn't going to break the bank, but if I eat it, the number of forums I get on and post feedback increases exponentially.
I'll play...
I work offshore for 3 weeks at time (50% of the time) on ROV's. A little bit of an explanation.
I work on a vehicle that is entirely hydraulic, controlled by electronics and the stuff has to work at up to 10,000 feet deep.
Yes it actually has to work, more than I can say for your transbrake setup.
I don't think the other two guys who have had issues with it want to get involved but one is a sponsor here who builds them day in and day out for a living, and the other builder I spoke to that had issues also builds nothing but performance units for a living.
I've been building transmissions for about 15 yrs now as well as being an ASE master certified tech, master engine machinist, L1, not to mention several years of college education.
I spent over a yr building nothing but performance GM automatics out of my shop, which I run 100% of the time now even when I'm not here.
The offshore job keeps the family covered with medical insurance, the shop pays the bills and keeps 3 people employed full time.
I quit building full time and left for a year to go work in Iraq (twice) because being a mercenary pays better than building transmissions and is more exciting most days.
Here's a question for you,
why do you run your business through Randy's as a front?
By the way what's the address to ship your junk back to you, do you want the VB since you owe me one?
Randy's is a partner who is getting into this business, and to be honest it is do to a divorce that this is run through him.
There are about half a dozen Tech guys who are my customers. I've done a few 4L80s and TH400s.
I don't mess with too many 4L60Es so for the most part this isn't my demographic so I'm not as well known here but I have a known reputation for my builds on other sites as well as among several performance trans rebuilders. Some I do warranty work for locally to save shipping.
Call BTE and ask them about the fucked up converter they sold me ( and wouldn't fix) several years ago. Get an estimate on the lost sales for that one....
IMO,
If 3 professional builders can't get your stuff to work, something is wrong, and chances are it's not ALL 3 of the builders.
Did you change something between the time the above customer bought his and you sold the rest?
Nothing has changed.
Because there is definitely an issue with the reverse pressure, slow to engage cold or warm, pressures going up and down, and reverse going in and out.
A CKPerformance brake fixed the pressure issue. The trans is on the bench to see what got injured with your setup before I turn it loose again.
CK performance is running one of my Transbrakes with no problems. Also Kris is the one making the parts.
When I bought your transbrake you were fine with me posting pics and giving feedback here. Now you seem to not want it since the feedback involves bad news.
Do you want me to reiterate the mismachined parts, the VB you sent that I had to fix, the fact yo don't want to refund shipping on a failed product, etc.
I really don't care if I eat the cost, I make enough that $500-600 isn't going to break the bank, but if I eat it, the number of forums I get on and post feedback increases exponentially.
It is not about playing it is about acting professional. Responding to an individual that has be slammed on this thread is exactly professional. I am sure you are probably an experienced builder just like many others here but this is a forum for people to find out why they are experiencing problems. See above for the rest of you answers.
Quote " I believe it is a design flaw with the way the torque signal circuit is used but I spent more than enough time trying to figure it out."
Explain to those who are less knowledgeable how YOU think this is a problem? What is Torque Signal Oil used for? Please elaborate?
04-20-2009, 12:16 AM
#13
Jim,
You might want to check with Chris about your transbrake working without any issues.
If you remember I'm the one who sent you to Chris to get seperator plates made when I gave you the initial feedback on the install. I told you having plates made would give the kit a more professional appearance as well as save you time.
I'm aware Chris is making the parts. I deal with him often, spoke with him briefly today. I spoke to him a week ago when I installed his transbrake to replace yours.
Both the builders I've spoken to that have tried your automatic brake setup have had issues with it locking up in manual low.
With your MVB transbrake the final outcome was the reverse pressures were very unstable. Spiking to 275 psi, dropping to 75 psi. I had 175 psi in forward gears. Forward gears were OK, brake functioned, reverse would slip and engage and was always SLOW to engage.
Upon installation of the CK brake, I had 200 psi line in forward gears, 325+ (maxed out gauge) pressure in reverse, positive brake function, instant reverse engagement.
The CK brake also maintains the 1-2 accumulator which I feel is preferable for sprag reliability, and the 3-4 accumulator. Yours doesn't.
So the pressure issues are definitely valve body related, not reverse boost valve, not any internal circuits.
Torque signal circuit is used to control line pressure. On older units it would have been the "modulator" circuit. It modulates the line pressure based on force motor input.
You are using the TS circuit to feed the brake. Your brake is a shift solenoid that acts as an orificed bleed. Turn the sol on, kill the leak, activate the brake valve to reroute fluid.
On paper it all looks OK even to me, however in practical application it seems the bleed on the TS circuit is causing unstable pressures.
I think if you pulled the brake feed off of line pressure it would be stable.
I haven't tried to study it in depth because I feel I've spent enough time "R&D'ing" your transbrake and haven't had time to mess with it. It's sitting in a box still soaked in ATF from when I pulled it off my customers car.
As far as I'm concerned the CK piece fixed the issue, my pressures are stable, the brake holds and releases good, everything works as it should. The pressure issues with your brake have caused it to slip enough in reverse that the trans had what I felt was excessive material in the pan so after we tested the CK setup, I pulled the unit to inspect and repair.
The band and directs looked "OK" but the reaction carrier had heat spots. I replaced all of them.
As for the derogatory post before mine. Why should I get involved in that? There are moderators here to take care of that type of stuff.
The OP is the first person I've heard of that even got your setup to work. You say you have a bunch of them working fine but the feedback here indicates otherwise.
I am actually disappointed because I have several more units to build with a transbrake and a couple are automatic versions. I'll be sending my business to Rossler for those but had your unit worked, I would have already had them built.
They've been in a holding pattern while I tried to sort this one out.
You might want to check with Chris about your transbrake working without any issues.
If you remember I'm the one who sent you to Chris to get seperator plates made when I gave you the initial feedback on the install. I told you having plates made would give the kit a more professional appearance as well as save you time.
I'm aware Chris is making the parts. I deal with him often, spoke with him briefly today. I spoke to him a week ago when I installed his transbrake to replace yours.
Both the builders I've spoken to that have tried your automatic brake setup have had issues with it locking up in manual low.
With your MVB transbrake the final outcome was the reverse pressures were very unstable. Spiking to 275 psi, dropping to 75 psi. I had 175 psi in forward gears. Forward gears were OK, brake functioned, reverse would slip and engage and was always SLOW to engage.
Upon installation of the CK brake, I had 200 psi line in forward gears, 325+ (maxed out gauge) pressure in reverse, positive brake function, instant reverse engagement.
The CK brake also maintains the 1-2 accumulator which I feel is preferable for sprag reliability, and the 3-4 accumulator. Yours doesn't.
So the pressure issues are definitely valve body related, not reverse boost valve, not any internal circuits.
Torque signal circuit is used to control line pressure. On older units it would have been the "modulator" circuit. It modulates the line pressure based on force motor input.
You are using the TS circuit to feed the brake. Your brake is a shift solenoid that acts as an orificed bleed. Turn the sol on, kill the leak, activate the brake valve to reroute fluid.
On paper it all looks OK even to me, however in practical application it seems the bleed on the TS circuit is causing unstable pressures.
I think if you pulled the brake feed off of line pressure it would be stable.
I haven't tried to study it in depth because I feel I've spent enough time "R&D'ing" your transbrake and haven't had time to mess with it. It's sitting in a box still soaked in ATF from when I pulled it off my customers car.
As far as I'm concerned the CK piece fixed the issue, my pressures are stable, the brake holds and releases good, everything works as it should. The pressure issues with your brake have caused it to slip enough in reverse that the trans had what I felt was excessive material in the pan so after we tested the CK setup, I pulled the unit to inspect and repair.
The band and directs looked "OK" but the reaction carrier had heat spots. I replaced all of them.
As for the derogatory post before mine. Why should I get involved in that? There are moderators here to take care of that type of stuff.
The OP is the first person I've heard of that even got your setup to work. You say you have a bunch of them working fine but the feedback here indicates otherwise.
I am actually disappointed because I have several more units to build with a transbrake and a couple are automatic versions. I'll be sending my business to Rossler for those but had your unit worked, I would have already had them built.
They've been in a holding pattern while I tried to sort this one out.
05-11-2009, 08:24 AM
#14
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Shawnee KS
Posts: 498
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Update - transmission failure again.
Lasted ~700 miles, 1 trip to the track on street tires, 3 dyno pulls, and some long distance driving. Shortly after the dyno pulls I noticed some odd sounds from the converter. Max power made was 490rwhp with the power dropping fast (one idea was the converter was failing).
Thinking the flexplate was broken due to the sound that was being made a friend helped me drop the trans. Once the converter was unbolted we spun it and you could hear something inside "flicking" the fins and causing it to spin easy then hard, then easy for a few turns, and hard for part of one. Also sounded like a buch of crap was cascading down the sides of the converter as you spun it slowly. After pulling the converter we noticed small steel strips of steel on the outside of the pump splines and some mangled metal in the converter. The converter has lock up, but was never used. Also never tried the transbreak.
I have not torn into the trans yet, so not sure what is burned up, but judging from the color of the fluid (almost that of used motor oil) im betting most of the trans is burned up. Before the dyno I was starting to notice the super delayed reverse engaugement, and hesitation again, forward shifts were still firm. The car was driven ~40 miles after the dyno.
I am not sure yet if the trans failed again and took out the converter, or if the converter failed taking out the trans. Either way the converter is going in to be rebuilt. Unsure if I will be switching to a Th400 or trying to rebuild this one AGAIN and using a new VB and a Transgo FMVB.
Lasted ~700 miles, 1 trip to the track on street tires, 3 dyno pulls, and some long distance driving. Shortly after the dyno pulls I noticed some odd sounds from the converter. Max power made was 490rwhp with the power dropping fast (one idea was the converter was failing).
Thinking the flexplate was broken due to the sound that was being made a friend helped me drop the trans. Once the converter was unbolted we spun it and you could hear something inside "flicking" the fins and causing it to spin easy then hard, then easy for a few turns, and hard for part of one. Also sounded like a buch of crap was cascading down the sides of the converter as you spun it slowly. After pulling the converter we noticed small steel strips of steel on the outside of the pump splines and some mangled metal in the converter. The converter has lock up, but was never used. Also never tried the transbreak.
I have not torn into the trans yet, so not sure what is burned up, but judging from the color of the fluid (almost that of used motor oil) im betting most of the trans is burned up. Before the dyno I was starting to notice the super delayed reverse engaugement, and hesitation again, forward shifts were still firm. The car was driven ~40 miles after the dyno.
I am not sure yet if the trans failed again and took out the converter, or if the converter failed taking out the trans. Either way the converter is going in to be rebuilt. Unsure if I will be switching to a Th400 or trying to rebuild this one AGAIN and using a new VB and a Transgo FMVB.
05-11-2009, 09:36 AM
#15
Maxx,
I've figured out a setup using the TransGo -3 kit that seems to work well on the 4L80E for full manual configurations.
Shoot me an email and I'll explain it to you.
jakeshoe@yahoo.com
I've figured out a setup using the TransGo -3 kit that seems to work well on the 4L80E for full manual configurations.
Shoot me an email and I'll explain it to you.
jakeshoe@yahoo.com
05-11-2009, 02:11 PM
#16
Jake-does whatever you did to the Transgo HD3 make it shift better, and if one is already modded with Transgo's kit can it still be used-the one i converted back to full auto is working great, but i still have the man v/b and the trans i robbed the v/b out of to make mine auto, i could build a full man one as a spare, lol
