Building a stock eliminator car
04-18-2009, 05:43 PM
#1
Building a stock eliminator car Hey all,
Well it's time to take the plunge. It's a super tough class for LS cars with the breaks and power addings, but thats what I want. Anyone have some good info on getting involved with this class for the 2010 season?
Well it's time to take the plunge. It's a super tough class for LS cars with the breaks and power addings, but thats what I want. Anyone have some good info on getting involved with this class for the 2010 season?
04-18-2009, 05:54 PM
#2
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I'm just starting this year. I'm sure you've seen the posts I've made you can pm me and I 'd be glad to help in anyway I can. Its an awesome class good luck and hope to see ya at some races.
04-18-2009, 07:07 PM
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Have you ever ran in stock eliminator? Are you planning on running points meets only until you have enough points to run a national event or just points meets only? National events can get very costly and a tear down is more likely. You understand the stock lift on the cam, stock ports on the heads, stock TB, etc?
04-18-2009, 08:27 PM
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I would love some more info on this topic also. I would be interested in running in mean street in the NMCA, which from the research I have done has some similarities to stock eliminator. I asked a few people over the winter but I have a feeling most guys are pretty tight lipped about their combos.
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04-18-2009, 10:05 PM
#9
Have you ever ran in stock eliminator? Are you planning on running points meets only until you have enough points to run a national event or just points meets only? National events can get very costly and a tear down is more likely. You understand the stock lift on the cam, stock ports on the heads, stock TB, etc?
04-19-2009, 08:03 AM
#13
I'll jump in on the teardown question. It is when you either get picked by the luck of the draw, someone protests you, or you set a National record. I have been in over twenty of them, but most people will never see one.
You have to pull the intake and one head. The intake and the throttle body must be stock, have accepted part numbers and not be modiofied.
The head must have accepted part numbers and will be checked for CC's on the intake and exhaust ports and the combustion chamber. They will check for any porting marks or modifications. Two valves will be pulled out and measured. Factory valves or SS replacements.
The bore (max .070 over) and stroke (+-.015) are checked and how far the top ring is down on the piston.
The lift is measured at the valve retainer(.515). The lifters are measured for size and that they are not solid. NHRA has a set of plugged lifters to check with or you have to make your own. On an LS this is a pain. You have to pull the head have it all checked out, put in the checking lifters and put the head back on do your checks, pull the head change back the lifters.
The wheel base of the car is checked on both sides and the front overhang.
As for the cubic dollars, you need this just to get to and into the race. Truck and trailer and their maintenance. Hotel room or RV? Fees just went up to enter and to get your competition numbers. Race fuel is about $8 per gallon, at least the good stuff is. New belts every two years. Slicks are about $450 a set. This year you have to have a jacket and pants. This is before you turn the key or break any parts. You are probably going to get the bug to go faster. That is when it starts to get nuts. Opps forgot. You need a pit bike to get around and a practice tree. You are going to need 20's or better lights to make it past the first round.
The friends and fun are great but NHRA makes it hard to stay motivated. We race local races here in Div 1. We have plenty within two hours of the shop. One car is planning to go to Va. next month. The one thing when I got into this I did not expect was the hours and hours of waiting.
I am always looking for young people to help us and learn. The floor is still the same distance down but getting back up is more interesting.
Last but not least. You better have an understanding wife or girlfriend. Here are the unwritten costs. The shopping money you have to give your wife while you spend three days at the track or the trip to Fla to see her friends. Don't even think of bringing them to the track. There is nothing to do all day. I'm bored and I want to be there. One guys girlfriend started up the motorhome and started driving for the gates while he was in the staging lanes. The slideout was open on the motorhome and the back door was open on the trailer.
You have to pull the intake and one head. The intake and the throttle body must be stock, have accepted part numbers and not be modiofied.
The head must have accepted part numbers and will be checked for CC's on the intake and exhaust ports and the combustion chamber. They will check for any porting marks or modifications. Two valves will be pulled out and measured. Factory valves or SS replacements.
The bore (max .070 over) and stroke (+-.015) are checked and how far the top ring is down on the piston.
The lift is measured at the valve retainer(.515). The lifters are measured for size and that they are not solid. NHRA has a set of plugged lifters to check with or you have to make your own. On an LS this is a pain. You have to pull the head have it all checked out, put in the checking lifters and put the head back on do your checks, pull the head change back the lifters.
The wheel base of the car is checked on both sides and the front overhang.
As for the cubic dollars, you need this just to get to and into the race. Truck and trailer and their maintenance. Hotel room or RV? Fees just went up to enter and to get your competition numbers. Race fuel is about $8 per gallon, at least the good stuff is. New belts every two years. Slicks are about $450 a set. This year you have to have a jacket and pants. This is before you turn the key or break any parts. You are probably going to get the bug to go faster. That is when it starts to get nuts. Opps forgot. You need a pit bike to get around and a practice tree. You are going to need 20's or better lights to make it past the first round.
The friends and fun are great but NHRA makes it hard to stay motivated. We race local races here in Div 1. We have plenty within two hours of the shop. One car is planning to go to Va. next month. The one thing when I got into this I did not expect was the hours and hours of waiting.
I am always looking for young people to help us and learn. The floor is still the same distance down but getting back up is more interesting.
Last but not least. You better have an understanding wife or girlfriend. Here are the unwritten costs. The shopping money you have to give your wife while you spend three days at the track or the trip to Fla to see her friends. Don't even think of bringing them to the track. There is nothing to do all day. I'm bored and I want to be there. One guys girlfriend started up the motorhome and started driving for the gates while he was in the staging lanes. The slideout was open on the motorhome and the back door was open on the trailer.
Last edited by STOCK1090; 04-19-2009 at 08:44 AM. Reason: spelling
04-19-2009, 09:27 AM
#15
Tom is absolutly right. All the work has been done and your learning curve is shortened. You will save a bunch of money and most of all aggravation. A good car to start with would be a 305 car in a Camaro or a Cutlass. Parts are cheap and plentyful. If you are willing to part with 25k -30k you can get an LT1 car. LS cars are in the 40's.
Try here.
http://www.classracer.com/classforum...splay.php?f=11
Try here.
http://www.classracer.com/classforum...splay.php?f=11
04-19-2009, 11:50 AM
#16
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04-19-2009, 11:56 AM
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It's a shame but a fact of life but stock classes were there for the little everyday guy but it has got way above the average joe.Girl friends and wifes unless they are into it are a pain as stated finding guys to go with you to help on a regular basis are hard to come by.I agree finding a car that someone is selling is the best way to go.Start in lower class as cost will be lower and the payout for winning is the same.I always thought a 4 cyl Mustang would be a good start.
04-27-2009, 07:33 PM
#18
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i still dont understand the high costs of these cars, i would think the concept is strip it as much as you can, dial in the suspension, and gear it properly to get the most out of a stock engine?