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Wiring Issue Causing Passenger cylinder bank to go Rich

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Old 05-04-2009, 10:22 PM
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Default Wiring Issue Causing Passenger cylinder bank to go Rich

So after getting some help today from Boostedlt5 with the sputtering/bucking issue with my ls1 rx7. We found out using HP tuners that the fuel trim on bank 2 (passengers side) was normal and then it was maxing out like 21 points so that side was just dumping fuel. We gave don a call and like usual he was right when he said it was prob a wiring issue. So we tear into the harness and pull it appart and start jiggling differnt parts and what do you know it smoothes out perfectly and the fuel trims come in line perfectly, then we russle the wires and the passenger side starts just dumping fuel again. So we got the region on the harness figured out, Its a wire on the passenger side but obviously its tough to figure out exactly what wire it was even after playing with it for an hour or so. Anthony Boostedlt5 thought one of the wires was crushed in its weather coating and probably wasnt visually broken so it'll be tough to find.

What I'm trying to figure out is in my mind I cant think of a single wire or even 2 wires that if broken or grounded out would cause the whole passenger side of the engine to go crazy rich. If anyone has some suggestions on what I should check first it would help because probably tomorrow I'm gonna print out a pinout, walk to autozone and buy another multimeter (left my tools on the cape) and go through the shitty process of checking continuity on every wire on either end of the harness.

Let me know
Old 05-05-2009, 07:29 AM
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My guess would be the O2 sensor wires.
Old 05-05-2009, 10:56 AM
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02s were reading fine on HPtuners. I figured an O2 was dead but he said that both of them were good
Old 05-05-2009, 12:12 PM
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Thats probably where I will start and that seems to be somewhat logical but I'm still not sure why it would effect the entire cylinder bank instead of just an individual cylinder.
Old 05-05-2009, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by crainholio
Good point, it's possible I'm not understanding what you mean by this:



Can you re-state that in terms of what data you saw on the HPT screen? And when you say "dumping fuel" do you mean the PCM is increasing fuel delivery (positive LTFT) or reducing fuel delivery (negative LTFT)?
LTFTs would spike off the charts positive
Old 05-05-2009, 02:49 PM
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Just got a noid light all of the injectors are working perfect.

So I'm guessing its a spark issue. I may have meant negative fuel trims. I dont know how to use HPtuners and I am just repeating what the guy who was helping me out said. So figuring it was negative instead of positive what do you guys think
Old 05-05-2009, 03:08 PM
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I need to get a good inline spark checker. One with a light so I can see whats goin on.

I bet its dropping 2 or 3 cylinders when I shake those wires. I just cant remember how the coil packs are wired up whether they use a common ground or the pc, grounds them. If I remember correctly they have 12v constant constant ground and then the pcm sends a signal to tell the coil to fire... I cant find pinouts of the coil packs anywhere on here. Only thing I could think of was if the coils on one cylinder bank use a common ground, that common ground wire is making intermittent contact. Or those signal wires are exposed and grounding out.

I have no clue and I dont have any tools with me again.

Lookin for some info
Old 05-05-2009, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by crainholio
The coil voltage supply is the same circuit as the four injectors for their bank.

Was the engine behaving poorly at the time you conducted the injector test?
I basically tried the injectors while the car was running well, then did it again and shook the wires and the engine started running poorly and the injectors were uneffected
Old 05-05-2009, 03:31 PM
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I just confirmed btw that it was negative 21 in the LTFTs. I had it backwards.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/11546964-post16.html
Old 05-05-2009, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by crainholio
That makes much more sense than positive LTFTs, thanks for researching it.

We're back to a shorted driver circuit. After this is ruled out, a coil not getting 12VDC or trigger is next.

With your noid light test, was it blinking for each of the four injectors? Or was it staying on constant?

Re-run the noid light test, and wiggle the harness while the engine's running. Watch the light to see if it stays lit constant.
It continued to blink even when the engine was idling terrible. Shaking the harness didnt seem to have any effect on the injectors
Old 05-05-2009, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by crainholio
Did you test the noid light on all four injector connectors?
yeah. I am gonna go check again right now just to be sure
Old 05-05-2009, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by crainholio
Yup, just get an old school inductive pickup timing light as I described above and you're in business.
I got a whole set of noid lights cause I'm away from home and away from any tools. The car was running great before this happened so I thought I was finally out of the woods and didnt need the tools

Stupid me
Old 05-05-2009, 06:38 PM
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I think i might have found my issue. The coil pack connector on the passengers side has been nothing but problems. 2 signal wires for the front 2 cylinders either came loose from the connector or the pins come disconnected inside the connector but I ended up just jumping those 2 wires and soldering in a different 2 pin connector. Anyway I grabbed the black wire at the coil pack connector and I seemed to be able to control if the engine was running on 8 or 4 cylinders (basically not running at all)

I am going to go out and check it again later but I am pretty sure thats the issue. Injectors were all fine.

That connector is a peice of **** and its pissing me off but good news is I may have found my issue. Now just how to get a new connector tomorrow
Old 05-05-2009, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by sciff5
I think i might have found my issue. The coil pack connector on the passengers side has been nothing but problems. 2 signal wires for the front 2 cylinders either came loose from the connector or the pins come disconnected inside the connector but I ended up just jumping those 2 wires and soldering in a different 2 pin connector.
You kind-of forgot to mention your coil wiring was a kludge, what a waste of time.

Old 05-05-2009, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by crainholio
You kind-of forgot to mention your coil wiring was a kludge, what a waste of time.

I didnt know there was an issue still I figured I took care of it 100%. I just noticed that stupid connector looks like its giving me trouble on the ground pin, Which would make all the sense in the world




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