oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

I know the tr224 114 seems like what I want but want to be sure. With my current setup (maybe lts down the road but not now) what cam could I choose that won't require tuning or stall and is streetable. I'm NOT looking for BIG or PEAK numbers here just a nice wide torque curve. I suppose I'll need springs too? I want to go as small a possible while still getting over 380 rwhp. Not doing heads and even though many will say to do the headers first I'm not interested in that right now. Will the cam stated above be too big for someone who doesn't want to beef up their tranny or rear? Am I barking up the wrong tree here or can I do it?

Recap: A SMALL cam, maybe with new springs, nice lope, no tuning or stall required, decent gains, not going to grenade my tranny etc???

Price of cam and appox. install cost would be a HUGE bonus too guys. Thanks for all your thoughts and help.

ramdaspadhye

iTrader: (3)

With an a4, you're definately going to need tuning to get the most out of any cam, fyi

KEVS98LS1

iTrader: (2)

That will be fine for you, as i am looking for a cam too.I was told to go with a 228/232 .588/.595 114.I have a few more mods then you.

streetassasin

iTrader: (30)

The stock cam will destroy the trans lol. Predator-z recomened a 230/234 612 598 111+3 for my bolt on 150shot car with a 3800 stall. As for price a mod off of here is doing my install for $800 and that includes the cam springs pushrods timing chain fuel pump and tuning it.

USArmyZ28

iTrader: (3)

GMPP ASA Cam might not be a bad choice for u, alot of people talk crap about it. But people who actually have the cam generally have really good things to say about it, yes you will need springs. But the cam only lifts .525 .525 so the springs will literally last forever.

massls1guy

iTrader: (9)

I'm one of those guys that would recommend getting headers first. They are a great mod and add a lot of torque across most of the RPM band. Just the sound of them will make you smile every time you start the car.

If you really don't want headers you will need a different cam than the TR224 to make up for the poor exhaust flow. Did you see this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...-mild-cam.html

Is there a reason you don't want a stall? A good converter can make your car really quick, and the stall you pick will depend a lot on your cam selection. Just something to think about.

Best thing to do is try to plan out exactly which mods you want so they all work well together.

02*C5

iTrader: (1)

Look do it right the first time. A cam swap any cam unless it is a stock spec cam YOU WILL NEED A TUNE, you will need exhaust, you will need a stall, you will need heads to do it right. Don't be that guy who posts pics on a thread and saying how it went all wrong with all the advise you got of this forum. It has happened and to me all those people are tools.

Save your money and do it right, if you don't you'll pay A LOT more later. It took me 37 years to do it right and plenty of money spent doing it wrong because of "Advice" the best advice was from my grandpa

"Do it right the first time because it gets more time consuming and expensive the more times you have to re do it and fix it."

Zach79Z

iTrader: (21)

Call Thunder racing about the tr224 to make sure but it should be fine without a stall and also see what springs they reccomend.

LS1-NAVY

iTrader: (1)

i say at least get headers i think there will be no way to get close to 380 with out headers unless u spray

TooLateVTEC

iTrader: (2)

Like others have said, you will want a tune regardless of camshaft selection. About the biggest I would go with no tune is a stock LS6 cam.

Headers will be a good mod as well, even MAC mid lengths would be better than stock manifolds.

ramdaspadhye

iTrader: (3)

Even if you're not wanting performance and just the sound, you still need to have it tuned to get any kind of drivability and fuel economy out of it.

oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

Ok thanks guys. I knew the headers thing would come up and I guess it would not be practical in terms of power gains and bang for buck to not do the lts first. Just heard they are a bitch on these cars and can cause a lot of banging afterwards from the y pipe. Sounds like I need them though according to you guys? The stall sounds fine and dandy but just wanted to get away from having my tranny and/or converter take a **** on me. Even with a cooler I hear they are risky business on a stock tranny. I'm not interested in a racing tranny at this time. All in all it really sounds like I am better off just leaving the car at where it is now until I want to start with the headers. Then the stall if I decide to do that. Maybe headers, then stall (or vice versa ?) which will put off my getting a cam till NEXT summer When I do that though would I be ok just to upgrade the heads to ls6? Since at that point I'll probably want to beef up my tranny and rear and invest in a set of stickies, I'll probably be too damn broke to do much better on the heads. I know the "right" way to do things but was looking for an easier cheaper way out (I know I know do it right the first time-punch me in the nuts now) but in reality I should know better. Just get excited about modding and want to put the cart before the horse I guess So when/if I get to do my cam next summer the tr224 sounds ok? Why would I go with 114 over the 112 from a perfomance standpoint?

I am taking everyone's advice and am awaiting on fuddle to give me an idea of what I need for my application. I want a stall that I can use now but will be easy to match with a cam when the time comes. Wish I could do it all this summer but that aint gonna happen.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

If you search the tranny section you won't get a Fuddle but the good news is there are several good ones to choose from. The one in sig has been very good to me....

DANOZ28

iTrader: (1)

i'm just agreeing with the other posters, first you need a tune after chg anything. your not going to install a cam and get good pwr off a stock tune. at least get a mail order tune. 2nd you must upgrade your springs. i've heard/seen stock ls1's springs bounce or flutter at about 5800 rpm. budget ported ls6 heads are about 1k. mine came with ls6 springs which are only good to 570 lift. i'm ticked at myself for going with a mild cam (ls6) at least go with the tr224 /114lsa. i'd say do it right or enjoy it the way it is. cheers!

Jason 98 TA

iTrader: (4)

The TSP 224R camshaft has been installed in stock verter A4 cars before. I've even seen a few 224/228 camshafts with stock converters. Typically guys that are doing a camshaft this size plan on ultimately adding a converter. Do you plan on staying stock verter forever? If so you might also consider the 220/224 camshaft or the 220R camshaft. We have engine & chassis dyno results for either one, give us a call if we can provide you with that data!!

Here's our complete package for under $600!!

http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=174&catid=49

oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

How important is it to do timing chain with a mild cam? I figure I'll start with a stall/headers (still on the fence with the stall-back and forth a lot) and then the cam and ported heads.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

I would run the PAC's over the 918's anyday.....