Proper way to scale a car???
06-23-2009, 12:43 PM
#1
Proper way to scale a car??? Set ride heights. What is the recommended front to rear difference and left to right difference??
Next put on scales and level rear weight across scales?? With rear bar hooked or unhooked??
10lbs more on right rear using the swaybar to prload the right side?
Is this for the most part correct? What else is recommended/how do you scale your car for the track? I have heard as straight as possible front to rear. I have also heard 1" rake. I have Strange da's all the way around with rear hypercoil lowering springs and trying to find the best way to set my car up for a decent staring point.
Next put on scales and level rear weight across scales?? With rear bar hooked or unhooked??
10lbs more on right rear using the swaybar to prload the right side?
Is this for the most part correct? What else is recommended/how do you scale your car for the track? I have heard as straight as possible front to rear. I have also heard 1" rake. I have Strange da's all the way around with rear hypercoil lowering springs and trying to find the best way to set my car up for a decent staring point.
06-23-2009, 07:59 PM
#3
I have thought about that. I just feel bad cause I bought everything somewhere else. I have gotten great info from that person just need a little more. I am not sure how Madman would feel about giving up knowlege to someone that made their purchases somewhere else???
06-23-2009, 08:42 PM
#4
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When you scale the car, IMHO you want everything to be set-up as the car will be raced. Fluids, driver, etc. As mentioned, a professional chassis shop should be doing this if you are the least bit worried about getting it right.
Derek
Derek
06-23-2009, 08:52 PM
#5
I can do it myself just need to know the right procedure for doing it. I have the scales and have done the circle car stuff before just trying to apply some of that over to the straight line stuff. What is the recommended ride heights first off? After that I think I understand what is needed. The coilover project with the ride heights has me a little lost due to the fact the rear setup did not change yet the rear sits a good 1/4 inch lower than it did, no matter what I try to do with the front adjustments. I am around 26 15/16 on the right and 27 on the left (ground to rear quarter) Seems too low to me. The only way I can see to raise the *** end is to put the stock springs back in. If I could get some of this issue resolved I would feel better about the scales. I try to get my weights right on but then my heights are not what I think they should be.
On the Madman issue looks like he is a dealer for Bogart, which is my next purchase. So might be able to work out some issue there.
On the Madman issue looks like he is a dealer for Bogart, which is my next purchase. So might be able to work out some issue there.
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06-24-2009, 01:52 PM
#9
It's not like it is a major secret. I am sure each shop does something a little different but the it is all the same basic principal. I am just trying to figure out that pinciple not all there tricks. Just a basic idea on where to start. Thanks again guys.
06-24-2009, 05:36 PM
#10
Madman is the man when it comes to getting f-bodies scaled and balanced.
I dont think he will give and info out because thats how he makes his money. Best thing would be to do is have your car completely finished and send it to him. You wont be let down, take a nice road trip. It will be well worth it.
He does all of my cars and have yet to have a problem.
I dont think he will give and info out because thats how he makes his money. Best thing would be to do is have your car completely finished and send it to him. You wont be let down, take a nice road trip. It will be well worth it.
He does all of my cars and have yet to have a problem.
06-24-2009, 05:51 PM
#11
I figured Mad Steve would have caught this one.
I offer over the phone chassis tuning and set ups free of charge to anyone who purchases any chassis components from us. If you havent bought from us but still want the info we charge a one time fee of $70.00 and you get everything from scaling the car to setting up the suspension shocks etc for different track conditions.
Give us a call at the shop and we can help you out.
I offer over the phone chassis tuning and set ups free of charge to anyone who purchases any chassis components from us. If you havent bought from us but still want the info we charge a one time fee of $70.00 and you get everything from scaling the car to setting up the suspension shocks etc for different track conditions.
Give us a call at the shop and we can help you out.
06-26-2009, 02:26 PM
#15
I can agree with you. However, this site has all kinds of info and I can get cam advice but no one has scaled their own setups?? Like I said if I can get the right ride heights I can figure out the rest. Is higher better than lower? Should I have some rake or should it be level? How low is too low?
06-28-2009, 09:42 PM
#16
This is what I ended up with. If any one sees a problem with these settings please let me know.
26 1/4 ............... 26
27 1/8............... 26 7/8
That is 1/4 side difference and 7/8 front to rear diff. This was with the front bar gone and the rear disconnected. Once I finished I put 2 extra washers on the right side of the rear bar endlink to preload the right side. I will do one more final alignment and scale if this looks good to everyone. Thanks again.
The scales read
972 950
760 760
with the bar unhooked. About 755/765 with the 2 washers on the right side.
26 1/4 ............... 26
27 1/8............... 26 7/8
That is 1/4 side difference and 7/8 front to rear diff. This was with the front bar gone and the rear disconnected. Once I finished I put 2 extra washers on the right side of the rear bar endlink to preload the right side. I will do one more final alignment and scale if this looks good to everyone. Thanks again.
The scales read
972 950
760 760
with the bar unhooked. About 755/765 with the 2 washers on the right side.
06-30-2009, 09:14 AM
#17
Everything should be exactly how you are going to race it......the driver or equal weight should be in the drivers seat. All fluids, gas, water for intercooler, everything.
Some wireless scales are really nice for this
You can put it on the scales and get your front to rear percentage, but your not going to be able to change that
Normally they use some type of floating base for the front wheels, so that whem you jack it up and set it back on the scales, it will settle the suspension easier................that can be done by bouncing the front and rear suspension and rolling it a little.
Two main things
Front to rear percentage.......can't do much about that when it's on the scales.
Balanced weight on the rear tires.......uneven loading on the rear will cause wheel spin.
Make use of an anti roll bar or adjustable front shocks to do this.
the roll bar is the easy way, but if you are like me and don't have one yet, you could use your front coilovers.
I was heavy on the drivers rear and I raised the ride height on the drivers front to put more weight on the RR...
If you don't have coilovers i guess you could add weight to whichever side is light.
Some wireless scales are really nice for this
You can put it on the scales and get your front to rear percentage, but your not going to be able to change that
Normally they use some type of floating base for the front wheels, so that whem you jack it up and set it back on the scales, it will settle the suspension easier................that can be done by bouncing the front and rear suspension and rolling it a little.
Two main things
Front to rear percentage.......can't do much about that when it's on the scales.
Balanced weight on the rear tires.......uneven loading on the rear will cause wheel spin.
Make use of an anti roll bar or adjustable front shocks to do this.
the roll bar is the easy way, but if you are like me and don't have one yet, you could use your front coilovers.
I was heavy on the drivers rear and I raised the ride height on the drivers front to put more weight on the RR...
If you don't have coilovers i guess you could add weight to whichever side is light.
06-30-2009, 09:27 AM
#18
I have only seen this done a few times, but seems like they were worried about the rear being equal and not the front
I think I would hook up the rear bar with out the washers and try to get the rear back even.
that 44% rear isn't really good, might even look at adding weight to the back.
Do you have your battery routed to the back?
My car had the aps twin kit and it has 46% rear weight
I think I would hook up the rear bar with out the washers and try to get the rear back even.
that 44% rear isn't really good, might even look at adding weight to the back.
Do you have your battery routed to the back?
My car had the aps twin kit and it has 46% rear weight
06-30-2009, 09:49 AM
#19
^^^No still up front. I am going to try to put the stock springs back in to get the car up a little higher in the rear. Sitting way too low. Exhaust wanted to skim the road on a light cruise last night. I may just do the hose mod with the rear springs so that I don't jack it up too much out back and just get the front level or no more than 3/4 inch lower.