2002 SS

iTrader: (8)

hey, can anyone tell me the exact size bolt i would need to re install my Powerbond pulley? ive tried a couple of bolts from the hardware stores and it either didnt fit or they didnt have the "hex" head. im tryna get this damn pulley back on but having trouble finding the right longer bolt. thanks!

sparkwirez06

iTrader: (18)

go to your fastenal store, buy 1 m16-2.0 d934 pt#90711 cost 1.50
buy 1 16-2x180 10.9din933 pt#34795 cost 15.53
buy a 3/4 " pipe nipple 1.5" long and 2 flat washers large enough to cover the hole in the damper pulley, and with a center hole the bolt will fit through.
the bolt is threaded all the way up. put the nut on the bolt,screwed all the way up, then the washer, then the pipe nipple, then the other washer and with the damper pulley started on the crankshaft, screw the assembly into the crank, hold the head of the bolt with a socket and breaker bar, and using a 10" box end 24mm wrench screw the nut on forcing the damper pulley on. do not turn the bolt to force it on, this may cause thread damage. I just did this yesterday!! LOL

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

There is a special tool sold on this site for $40. It is made just for the pulley install. It has a caged bearing. Works great.

spy2520

iTrader: (3)

i suggest either of these two methods mentioned. Please dont use a slightly longer bolt to get the pulley on the crank, you want a long bolt that stays stationary threaded into the crank, and drive the pulley on with a nut, easiest way is just get the tool from the guy on this site, then you have no worries of damaging anything.

ShortChevy

iTrader: (21)

The bolt part no. is 34759 not 34795, only reason I know is I just picked this bolt up at fastenal. You are a savior. I was looking for a way to install my pulley and came accross this thread. I'm sure the pulley install tool sold on here is awsome and works great but I just didn't feel like waiting to install when I can get the stuff local.

adam1803

iTrader: (65)

What i did was put it in a 400* oven for about 20 minutes, it slid 90% of the way on and the stock bolt was plenty long to get it on the rest of the way.

ShortChevy

iTrader: (21)

That sounds ok if it sled 90% on. They say you shouldn;t heat it more then 250* also you dont want to stress the threads in the crank by using them the pull the balancer on with the bolt not fully threaded.

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

LS7 3/4" longer bolt. Just ordered one for $6.00 to put mine back on after the cam swap LOL

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

I would highly suggest getting a tool made for it. I tried the longer bolt method and managed to instantly strip 5 threads out of the crank. I ended up making a tool out of m16x2.0 threaded rod, 2 big fender washers, a piece of tubing over the rod and a nut to tighten it down with. Then I put an acorn nut on the end to thread the rod into the crank since mine was all messed up.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

i bought hawks tool

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Years ago before the special install tool(which I now have in my tool box) came along I used a M16X2mmX103mm bolt numerous times with no problems. There is a step on the pulley that allows you to get the pulley started straight onto the crankshaft. You set the pulley onto the crank(add a little never seize) and start pushing it on using the long bolt. You should see the pulley move each time you turn the bolt. The torque value needed to move the pulley shouldn't be very high and if the pulley doesn't move it's time to STOP and find out why. If you keep turning even when a lot of force is needed or the pulley isn't moving toward the block you asking for trouble. This rule applies whether you're using the long bolt method or the special tool. You learn through experience when something isn't right and if it doesn't feel right you STOP and investigate the problem instead of turning the wrench more. If it was me I'd pay the $40 for the tool. It's well worth the wait for UPS to deliver it.

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

This man speaks the truth, well worth the wait for the right tool, or make your own for 20$ like I did. In my case I don't know what happened, because I started my "long bolt" with a torque wrench set at 10ft-lbs (basically nothing) just to avoid stripping threads, and they came out before the wrench even clicked. I think they may have gotten messed up by the force from the pulley remover pushing on the old bolt.

spy2520

iTrader: (3)

That is possible, i did mine a mm at a time. And i rented a shitty puller from autozone, the puller was the weakes link, i pulled every thread off that thing lol.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

10ft/lbs isn't going to damage those threads so I don't think there is much doubt the threads were already damaged BEFORE the pulley was put back on. The removal was probably when the damage was done, but there is a cure for that problem too which I've posted numerous times here. I use a BIG allen head cap screw and a couple of large flat washers. You need a cap screw that is big enough that it will just barely fit inside of the pulley bolt threads in the crank snout. You put the large flat washers (which need to be slightly smaller than the O.D. of the crank) onto the allen head cap screw and put the screw into the hole where the pulley bolt came out. You then install your 3 leg puller and buck the puller rod up against the hex hole in the allen head cap screw. This way the force of the puller pushes against the crank snout and NOT against the pulley bolt threads. Some nightmare stories on this site include guys who ruined all the threads or got the puller rod stuck inside of the crank snout and couldn't get it out. The threads can't be damaged using my method. There are other was to accomplish this task, but I just happened to have a BIG allen head cap screw on hand so I've been using this method for years and it works.