Delete all PCV system?
07-03-2009, 11:43 AM
#1
Delete all PCV system? I know this has been discuss a hundred times before, but what all needs to be done? IIRC you just remove the hoses and PCV valve and plug all hose fittings. Do you keep the fresh air hose that comes off the TB or remove it also? Then put breathers on both valve covers. Will alot of oil come out the breathers, this is a track only car, but I don't want oil all over the engine bay. Thanks George
07-03-2009, 01:06 PM
#2
Ditch all of the PCV, and the fresh air hose to the TB.
Put a breather on the passenger's side in place of the fill cap, the drivers side what I did, was tie the back 2 PCV connections together, and ran a clamp on breather off a T fitting I found that fit in the valve cover, that's how I had it when I ran the stock valve covers.
Now with the aftermarket ones (nasty performance) I put a -10AN line fron the drivers side to the passenger's side, ran a T fitting there and then ran a single -10 line to a moroso catch can.
with both setups, I have not had any issues with the engine bay getting oily. You will need to increase your oil change interval's because there will be a path for moisture to get into the motor, not a big deal, just something that has to be done. I change mine after every track trip, so it's not really a concern.
Put a breather on the passenger's side in place of the fill cap, the drivers side what I did, was tie the back 2 PCV connections together, and ran a clamp on breather off a T fitting I found that fit in the valve cover, that's how I had it when I ran the stock valve covers.
Now with the aftermarket ones (nasty performance) I put a -10AN line fron the drivers side to the passenger's side, ran a T fitting there and then ran a single -10 line to a moroso catch can.
with both setups, I have not had any issues with the engine bay getting oily. You will need to increase your oil change interval's because there will be a path for moisture to get into the motor, not a big deal, just something that has to be done. I change mine after every track trip, so it's not really a concern.
07-03-2009, 03:58 PM
#4
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Hi. I would not remove the PCV. Fresh air is needed to purge the crankcase of acid forming vapors (blowby, comprised of combustion producs including water, forming weak carbonic and lower values of sulfurous acid.
The only downside of the PCV sysem is the need for a little less throttle opening at idle. Carburetors made from 1963 to about 1971 take this into account. The Holley 3310 is a perfect example. If the carb is later, you can drill the fuel idle orifices very slightly (brass inserts in the float bowl side of the metering block in Holleys). Quadrajets are a little more involved, but do-able.
The PVC system works only under vacuum. AT WOT, it is completely out of the picture and will not affect drag times or ET's.
Hope this helps.
BernieK
The only downside of the PCV sysem is the need for a little less throttle opening at idle. Carburetors made from 1963 to about 1971 take this into account. The Holley 3310 is a perfect example. If the carb is later, you can drill the fuel idle orifices very slightly (brass inserts in the float bowl side of the metering block in Holleys). Quadrajets are a little more involved, but do-able.
The PVC system works only under vacuum. AT WOT, it is completely out of the picture and will not affect drag times or ET's.
Hope this helps.
BernieK
I know this has been discuss a hundred times before, but what all needs to be done? IIRC you just remove the hoses and PCV valve and plug all hose fittings. Do you keep the fresh air hose that comes off the TB or remove it also? Then put breathers on both valve covers. Will alot of oil come out the breathers, this is a track only car, but I don't want oil all over the engine bay. Thanks George
07-03-2009, 04:19 PM
#5
PCV system Hi. I would not remove the PCV. Fresh air is needed to purge the crankcase of acid forming vapors (blowby, comprised of combustion producs including water, forming weak carbonic and lower values of sulfurous acid.
The only downside of the PCV sysem is the need for a little less throttle opening at idle. Carburetors made from 1963 to about 1971 take this into account. The Holley 3310 is a perfect example. If the carb is later, you can drill the fuel idle orifices very slightly (brass inserts in the float bowl side of the metering block in Holleys). Quadrajets are a little more involved, but do-able.
The PVC system works only under vacuum. AT WOT, it is completely out of the picture and will not affect drag times or ET's.
Hope this helps.
BernieK
The only downside of the PCV sysem is the need for a little less throttle opening at idle. Carburetors made from 1963 to about 1971 take this into account. The Holley 3310 is a perfect example. If the carb is later, you can drill the fuel idle orifices very slightly (brass inserts in the float bowl side of the metering block in Holleys). Quadrajets are a little more involved, but do-able.
The PVC system works only under vacuum. AT WOT, it is completely out of the picture and will not affect drag times or ET's.
Hope this helps.
BernieK
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07-04-2009, 07:33 AM
#8
Hi. I would not remove the PCV. Fresh air is needed to purge the crankcase of acid forming vapors (blowby, comprised of combustion producs including water, forming weak carbonic and lower values of sulfurous acid.
The PVC system works only under vacuum. AT WOT, it is completely out of the picture and will not affect drag times or ET's.
Hope this helps.
BernieK
The PVC system works only under vacuum. AT WOT, it is completely out of the picture and will not affect drag times or ET's.
Hope this helps.
BernieK
You want the PCV **** off teh car, because of the contamination it does to the intake, and the rest of the intake tract, like the ports and valves. It dirties up the intake, also getting the intake charge dirty which can cause detonation, which is a bigger problem.
The oil related issue that you speak of is true.. and there is a simple solution like I originally stated: Change the oil every time you go to the track. I have been on this type of setup for 3 years and have absolutely zero engine ralated failures, over 200 passes, with 1/2 of them in the 9 second range. Nothing more then a set of valvesprings every year and a leakdown/compression test, that's IT. Oil pressure is still right where it was when the motor went together too.
Here is a picture of my engine bay, not perfect to see how i have it set up, but it should give you an idea.
Last edited by JL ws-6; 08-14-2012 at 09:46 PM.
07-04-2009, 11:44 AM
#9
Ditch all of the PCV, and the fresh air hose to the TB.
Put a breather on the passenger's side in place of the fill cap, the drivers side what I did, was tie the back 2 PCV connections together, and ran a clamp on breather off a T fitting I found that fit in the valve cover, that's how I had it when I ran the stock valve covers.
Now with the aftermarket ones (nasty performance) I put a -10AN line fron the drivers side to the passenger's side, ran a T fitting there and then ran a single -10 line to a moroso catch can.
with both setups, I have not had any issues with the engine bay getting oily. You will need to increase your oil change interval's because there will be a path for moisture to get into the motor, not a big deal, just something that has to be done. I change mine after every track trip, so it's not really a concern.
Put a breather on the passenger's side in place of the fill cap, the drivers side what I did, was tie the back 2 PCV connections together, and ran a clamp on breather off a T fitting I found that fit in the valve cover, that's how I had it when I ran the stock valve covers.
Now with the aftermarket ones (nasty performance) I put a -10AN line fron the drivers side to the passenger's side, ran a T fitting there and then ran a single -10 line to a moroso catch can.
with both setups, I have not had any issues with the engine bay getting oily. You will need to increase your oil change interval's because there will be a path for moisture to get into the motor, not a big deal, just something that has to be done. I change mine after every track trip, so it's not really a concern.
07-05-2009, 07:19 AM
#10
There's 2 was to do it, you can either get a T fitting to put there, or you can use the stock plastic elbow that sits in the valvecover, and just put a T in the hose that runs across.
A small clamp on filter, like one you can get from autozone will work fine.
A small clamp on filter, like one you can get from autozone will work fine.
