StuntmanMike

iTrader: (2)

Over the past few months or so it seems like my car has been riding a lot worse in the rear.

I take a road with a lot of frost heaves (picture small speedbumps running across the road) to work, and I swear it feel like the rear is coming off the ground and skipping sideways whenever I hit them. Same thing when going over highway overpasses with expansion joints or broken concrete.

Also, I'll get an intial jolt, and then what feels like a secondary jolt after I've cleared the bump. It seems to reverberate through the whole car. It feels like it's going to shake itself to pieces. If I have my hand on the shifter, I can even feel it there.

The front isn't great, but it doesn't feel like it's gotten worse, it's the rear I have a problem with.

At this point I don't even enjoy driving the car, it's so uncomfortable. My solid axle Jeep with Rancho springs (stiff!!) rides better right now.

I replaced the rear shocks, and that didn't help. Just cheapo KYB GR2's, but I thought they'd make SOME kind of difference. Nope, ZERO improvement.

Shocks that were on the back, and are still on the front, are original DeCarbons with 87k on them. The ones I took off the rear actually didn't seem to be that bad.

Any suggestions as to what it could it be??

Could it not be the shocks and maybe be the torque arm bushing? I have no idea what they symptoms of a bad one could be.

Thanks!!

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hello
I would look into replacing the shocks. And also look to see what the bushings look like they do eventually go bad! If you check out our control arms they have a grease able fitting as well as Energy Suspension Urethane Bushings (they last a lot longer than rubber). Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer!

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...rjbvfeqkkp2ds2

If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help!

Thanks
Brad

pjb

iTrader: (2)

want some low mileage decarbons?
bought them as new "take offs" from SLP long ago.
put them on my car a little while ago but almost never drive the car.
just bought a set of konis, so they are coming off. rears are already off.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I think for stock replacements I would personally look at either Bilstien or Tokico blue shocks.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

It's a shock issue, to be sure..... Almost anything would be better, to various degrees, depending on the mileage of the stock ones.

StuntmanMike

iTrader: (2)

Really, nothing else could be the culprit? I mean even though the KYB's are just cheap shocks, they should have made SOME kind of improvement, right?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Not if they aren't any better (or worse valving) than what you took off. Bottom line is the ride is the pervue of the shocks and springs. If nothing else changed, and the springs haven't changed or sagged, then the only think really left are shocks. Maybe something else isn't right, maybe you added a lot of unsprung weight with new wheels and tires (don't know). All else being the same worsening ride is an issue with the shocks not be able to control the axle very well.

I really can't tell you that GR2's must be better, although I find it odd you saw no change at all.

StuntmanMike

iTrader: (2)

Well you're the expert , so I value your input.

I guess I'll have to step up to a set of quality shocks.

Now aside from shocks, is there anything else that I could change to improve the ride?

It was suggested by someone else that I look into a set of LCA's with urathane bushings. How does urathane compare to poly or rubber for a street car? I've read other places that poly for instance is great for straight line, but can bind under suspension travel and worsen handling in corners. Is this true?

Thanks!

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

It depends on where you put the poly. I'm sure you don't want poly everywhere. There's certain bushings in the front arms that you don't want to change to poly. You probably want to spend a little time doing your homework to figure out what parts do what. LCA's, PHB, torque arm, etc... they all have different purposes. Changing them has their pros and cons.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Bear in mind I can't see or drive the car. Assuming you don't run a lot of air pressure (which can wreck ride) then the shocks are the big cause. I'd also check that your bumpstops are intact and in place as trashed ones can cause an abrupt hit vs. the nice long progression the way they should be.

As for the LCA's. No way would I recommend poly bushings and/or boxed or tubular arms unless you are trying to kill a wheelhop issue. In fact the reason why most stock cars use the star type bushings is for compliance, you will lose that if you go to a solid urethane type bushing. In fact if the bushings need replaced, I'll go to a 1LE style solid rubber bushing which helps kill some windup, but the softer rubber still allows more rotational movement.

If you were drag racing and had a big wheelhop issue, ok. But for ride? No way can I recommend arms like that--even if costs a sale.

StuntmanMike

iTrader: (2)

Thank you very much for that info, that really helps alot and answers all the questions I had about that subject.

I don't have the best traction at the track, but no wheelhop though. And I'm sure the traction problem is due to running all seasons.

Also, I forgot to mention earlier, I'm running '02 WS6 wheels with Michelins, at 32psi. I DID notice a bit of a stiffer ride w/the Michelins, but that was over a year ago, and I've gotten used to it. It was nothing so dramatic as what is going on now.

And thanks for the tip about the bumpstops, I'll take a look at them.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Try 30 psi in the rear.... See if that help at all. Should, a touch.