nitr0racing21

iTrader: (5)

I recently have a knock in my motor and I am not sure what route to take I can get a LQ4 for about 1000$ with 41000 miles on it, or I can try to fix my motor and build it up. I want to do a blower and push 8-11PSI my main goal is 550 RWHP as close to that as I can get I want to spend no more then 4k on the motor but that does not include the blower setup.


What do you recommend

IT_SS

iTrader: (5)

LS Block LQ Block

800< LS1
800> LQ9/4

I was recently talked out of an LQ block, but its a broad topic...

cablebandit

iTrader: (37)

I would build your current motor...eagle rods...stock crank ...wiseco pistons and let it eat

nitr0racing21

iTrader: (5)

I dont understand you > and < lol?? what made you get talked out of a LQ block

IT_SS

iTrader: (5)

> less than
< greater than

and i'm not shooting for more than 700 RWHP, and thats just for a dyno pull to get my rocks off

edit : not to mention is cheaper to keep her...that stock ls1 block that is and address the weak points; rods & pistons etc

nitr0racing21

iTrader: (5)

So I should upgrade the rods pistons and what else?

JAX04

iTrader: (17)

i was under the impression that and lq4 would take more boost then an ls1 in stock form, and even more with upgraded springs and rod bolts?

transamfreak01

iTrader: (8)

with a forged 347 you can put out over 700rwhp. i would stick with that and put the rest of the moeny somewhere else

trnsfmr99

iTrader: (1)

I'm learning about this stuff, but wouldn't it be better for him to go with more cubic inches, have the ingredients checked on the LQ-4 (make sure they're good), then build from that? 347 to a 364, less boost needed to meet his goals.

I had that same question a few months ago. My sig has most of the components that i'm using with my build. I'll post later on how it performs, but from what i've learned, getting the bigger motor is the route to go. Also, I found my LQ-4, with 13k on it, so its practically brand new. If you dig some more, you can find one with way less miles that that. Good luck and hope this helps!!!

nitr0racing21

iTrader: (5)

I was wondering the whole 346 vs 364 thing I am curious if someone has the answer

trnsfmr99

iTrader: (1)

I'll have an answer for you soon....

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

You actually have them backwards if your identifying the symbols. Easy way to remember it is since we read from left to right, < you come accross the small pointy (less) end first, so its "less than"....and vice versa.

< - Less than
> - Greater than

IT_SS

iTrader: (5)

lol, thanx dude, i sucked in math

Nitro and trnsfmr99 - 346 vs 364 same stroke as the LS1 (3.622 in) with a larger bore. I beileve an LQ4/9 and LS2 can achieve 377 CI with the stock LS1 crank...i could be wrong, im not an expert

The Fugitive

iTrader: (6)

with the time and money that you would spend to forge either you should just buy a 370 and be done with it all together and run whatever boost you want. the price of parts and labor is about the same unless you're going to be doing the work yourself. I have the lq4 in mine right now and only pushing a 5psi maf tune until I upgrade everything to push it to 12 or 14 psi (ofcourse I am saving for a new block if this one goes, so people can know around about it's limits). I go this block for cheap with very very low miles.

RPILS1

iTrader: (3)

Maybe i can help on the 346-364 question say a 346 with rated at 305 hp equals .89 hp per cubic inch.A 364 with the with similar cam heads and cr would make near 324 hp. A forged 347 bottom end would safely hold near 2 hp per cubic inch, imo, and that would put u safe into the 700 hp range while a 364 would be safe to 730 +/- simply put, more cube = more power.

LT1TA

iTrader: (17)

so if we wereto buy an lq4 block, i'm assuming we can purchase the forgred internals for a ls1 block? like, would i still search for parts as if it was still a camaro/firebird, or is it supposed to be whatever car that has the lq4 motor form factory?

RPILS1

iTrader: (3)

yea lq4 and lq9 parts are usually listed under ls1 family stuff just order the right parts depending on your rod length and get pistons for the correct bore size and your choice of stroke but they have the same rod/crank journal sizes

The Fugitive

iTrader: (6)

you would have to get the LQ4 parts as it it a different bore but seeing as though it's going into an f-body you would have to make sure the crank regulator sensor thing is the correct one but I have been told that the LQ's are just like the LS motors only made of iron not aluminum. <-- chime in someone that knows for a fact if this is true.

NemeSS

iTrader: (127)

if by crank regulator sensor thing you mean 24x reluctor, then yes every lq4/9 ever produced is 24x and will work with a fbody pcm

The Fugitive

iTrader: (6)

yes that sh*t I had a brain fart and couldn't remember the name of it, thanks btw