help deciding susp. for my SS build.
01-29-2010, 03:44 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
help deciding susp. for my SS build. https://ls1tech.com/forums/chevrolet...l#post12794036
so i have a pretty decent budget, but still not quite sure what to do with it yet. some ppl have already suggested full coil overs, full rear susp. with all poly/rod parts, sways etc etc. i want decent/good cornering along with 1/4 mile capability. but i'm no suspension expert. so here are some questions that arose from that ^ thread.
-to do k-member package or not to do k-member package. it's pricey, but i want it, just not sure if it's worth it.
-4 corner coil overs vs not. pros/cons? which coil overs should i go with if i do decide to.
-torque arm. trans mount vs relocation vs tunnel brace mounted.
-sfc's. 3 point vs 2 point. welded vs bolt in. or maybe not at all?
-if i do a 12 bolt how will that affect my suspension choices?
so i have a pretty decent budget, but still not quite sure what to do with it yet. some ppl have already suggested full coil overs, full rear susp. with all poly/rod parts, sways etc etc. i want decent/good cornering along with 1/4 mile capability. but i'm no suspension expert. so here are some questions that arose from that ^ thread.
-to do k-member package or not to do k-member package. it's pricey, but i want it, just not sure if it's worth it.
-4 corner coil overs vs not. pros/cons? which coil overs should i go with if i do decide to.
-torque arm. trans mount vs relocation vs tunnel brace mounted.
-sfc's. 3 point vs 2 point. welded vs bolt in. or maybe not at all?
-if i do a 12 bolt how will that affect my suspension choices?
01-29-2010, 03:55 PM
#2
Hard to work in generalities.
I'd be happy to help you with a setup that can do both, handle and still launch pretty darned well. Drag setups do not handle very well fwiw.
I will whole heartedly recommend a UMI k-member since I had a lot of input into it and it's way stronger than the single-tube designs. My swaybars are both hollow and the lightest set you can get that actually handles as they should (since my background and development of them involves actual handling). My lowering springs again are lighter than most any other set out there, proven to handle (as designed), and can get power down because I don't use a stupid high rear spring rate.
I also have some coil-overs, but you can't go to a drag race shock and expect the car to ride or handle like it can.
SFC's, sure we can do them and discuss different types. 3-pt are strongest and a must if you opt for a tunnel-mount TA. 2-pts cost and weigh less while making the car stiffer, you're call really.
12 bolt won't change much... added weight might mean we should consider a double adjustable rear shock to help damp the extra unsprung mass.
Give me a call, happy to talk it over with you and see what we can hammer out....
I'd be happy to help you with a setup that can do both, handle and still launch pretty darned well. Drag setups do not handle very well fwiw.
I will whole heartedly recommend a UMI k-member since I had a lot of input into it and it's way stronger than the single-tube designs. My swaybars are both hollow and the lightest set you can get that actually handles as they should (since my background and development of them involves actual handling). My lowering springs again are lighter than most any other set out there, proven to handle (as designed), and can get power down because I don't use a stupid high rear spring rate.
I also have some coil-overs, but you can't go to a drag race shock and expect the car to ride or handle like it can.
SFC's, sure we can do them and discuss different types. 3-pt are strongest and a must if you opt for a tunnel-mount TA. 2-pts cost and weigh less while making the car stiffer, you're call really.
12 bolt won't change much... added weight might mean we should consider a double adjustable rear shock to help damp the extra unsprung mass.
Give me a call, happy to talk it over with you and see what we can hammer out....
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01-29-2010, 04:29 PM
#3
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
Hard to work in generalities.
I'd be happy to help you with a setup that can do both, handle and still launch pretty darned well. Drag setups do not handle very well fwiw.
I will whole heartedly recommend a UMI k-member since I had a lot of input into it and it's way stronger than the single-tube designs. My swaybars are both hollow and the lightest set you can get that actually handles as they should (since my background and development of them involves actual handling). My lowering springs again are lighter than most any other set out there, proven to handle (as designed), and can get power down because I don't use a stupid high rear spring rate.
I also have some coil-overs, but you can't go to a drag race shock and expect the car to ride or handle like it can.
SFC's, sure we can do them and discuss different types. 3-pt are strongest and a must if you opt for a tunnel-mount TA. 2-pts cost and weigh less while making the car stiffer, you're call really.
12 bolt won't change much... added weight might mean we should consider a double adjustable rear shock to help damp the extra unsprung mass.
Give me a call, happy to talk it over with you and see what we can hammer out....
I'd be happy to help you with a setup that can do both, handle and still launch pretty darned well. Drag setups do not handle very well fwiw.
I will whole heartedly recommend a UMI k-member since I had a lot of input into it and it's way stronger than the single-tube designs. My swaybars are both hollow and the lightest set you can get that actually handles as they should (since my background and development of them involves actual handling). My lowering springs again are lighter than most any other set out there, proven to handle (as designed), and can get power down because I don't use a stupid high rear spring rate.
I also have some coil-overs, but you can't go to a drag race shock and expect the car to ride or handle like it can.
SFC's, sure we can do them and discuss different types. 3-pt are strongest and a must if you opt for a tunnel-mount TA. 2-pts cost and weigh less while making the car stiffer, you're call really.
12 bolt won't change much... added weight might mean we should consider a double adjustable rear shock to help damp the extra unsprung mass.
Give me a call, happy to talk it over with you and see what we can hammer out....
ok umi k-member is a go. and your hollow 35/22 sways look good too. now with the 1.2" springs, i already have clearance issues with my TSP TD's do you have any experience with making them clear? or do u think i should just go to a y-pipe?
anyways, what number should i contact you by? the one in your sig?
01-29-2010, 04:56 PM
#4
Yes sir, the one in my sig would be just fine. You don't need to change springs unless you prefer to be lowered. A stock sprung car can handle really quite well with good shocks and bars added. There is no accounting for exhausts and how they fit.....
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
01-29-2010, 05:15 PM
#5
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
hmmm. ok thats a good thought. so would a stock spring set give me pretty decent launches too? because of the travel etc?
i'll probly end up calling you some time next week.
i'll probly end up calling you some time next week.
01-29-2010, 05:51 PM
#6
the softer rate of stock springs helps launching vs. stiffer lowering springs. also going lower causes the pinion and lower control arm angles to change which is not ideal for launching. an adjustable tq arm and relocation brackets can help with this but you still run into the stiffer spring issue. don't be afraid to lower because of this, but beware. strano's springs ^^^ are still pretty soft in the rear so launching isn't hindered much.
01-29-2010, 07:09 PM
#7
Before you do any of the rear suspension stuff I would get a better rear. What would be the point of hooking better if you can't launch the car?
I am pretty sure the Texas Giant is meant for big cube motors and wont clear stock pistons.
I would also wait on the k-member and control arms. They really dont do much more than simply free up weight on the front end.
Longer torque arms give you better weight transfer but if you aren't doing some serious drag racing you wont notice a difference. I like my UMI tunnel mount, it doesnt make as much noise as others due to not having a rod end on the front mount.
I would go adjustable on everything, its worth the extra $.
I am pretty sure the Texas Giant is meant for big cube motors and wont clear stock pistons.
I would also wait on the k-member and control arms. They really dont do much more than simply free up weight on the front end.
Longer torque arms give you better weight transfer but if you aren't doing some serious drag racing you wont notice a difference. I like my UMI tunnel mount, it doesnt make as much noise as others due to not having a rod end on the front mount.
I would go adjustable on everything, its worth the extra $.
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01-30-2010, 03:20 AM
#8
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
yeah a 12 bolt is deffinitely something worth speding money on.
really the texas giant wont clear? u sure? its 248/254 .615/.622 and the MS4 is 239/242 .649/.609 and it clears stock heads/internals. i understand its for bigger cube motors but that doesn't have to mean it wont clear. anyways i'm not going with that cam so it makes no difference.
oh and just how noisy are rod ends? are they worth putting up with some noise?
and i think if anything the k-member is at the bottom of the priority list. but its just so sexy its hard to say no lol.
really the texas giant wont clear? u sure? its 248/254 .615/.622 and the MS4 is 239/242 .649/.609 and it clears stock heads/internals. i understand its for bigger cube motors but that doesn't have to mean it wont clear. anyways i'm not going with that cam so it makes no difference.
oh and just how noisy are rod ends? are they worth putting up with some noise?
and i think if anything the k-member is at the bottom of the priority list. but its just so sexy its hard to say no lol.
01-30-2010, 10:17 AM
#9
good ones are not very noisy at all. i daily drive with poly/rod lca's and they're no louder than my poly/poly set was. UMI's new roto joint may be better for a daily driver though. when my rod ends wear out i plan on switching to those.
01-30-2010, 02:00 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
well i have no experience with 9"s, i have a 12 bolt in my '68 and i'm pretty damn familiar with it. i can stand a little extra weight, and i plan on shedding weight in other places so i don't see that weight being too big of an issue. and like sam said, double adj rear shocks and it should be ok.
01-31-2010, 12:34 PM
#13
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I have poly/rod and they have a little noise. At first it bugged me, but now I feel like something is wrong if I don't hear it. Don't waste your time on poly/poly ends. Had those before and swiched. ^^I hear ya man people always think something is broken.
I don't know why that made me laugh so hard. Probably because it remindes me of the "You know you drive an F-body when" thread. LOL
01-31-2010, 01:11 PM
#16
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haha. You know you drive an fbody when... you go through a drive thru while its pouring and your window wont go back up.
but yeah. People expect like a quiet *** floating ride in the car. uhhhh its a sports car bro. not your moms camry (:
but yeah. People expect like a quiet *** floating ride in the car. uhhhh its a sports car bro. not your moms camry (:
02-01-2010, 07:35 AM
#18
Hello
Like mentioned above we offer a roto joint application for our pan hard bars and LCA's. They handle like a poly bushing but hold up as well as a rod end. Below is a link to show you what I am explaining.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...qcooljf0hcjlh6
If you have any other questions feel free to ask! And I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad
Like mentioned above we offer a roto joint application for our pan hard bars and LCA's. They handle like a poly bushing but hold up as well as a rod end. Below is a link to show you what I am explaining.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...qcooljf0hcjlh6
If you have any other questions feel free to ask! And I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad