my '00 SS pre-build thread
#1
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my '00 SS pre-build thread
ok so this is more for me, just to get everything straight in my head and help me set my budget. BUT i'de also take the .02 of anybody that can help. so anyways i will be deploying with my unit sometime this year(the date has moved so much that i can't even say when for sure)and my tax free combat pay is going to be funding my build and this is what i have so far:
2000 camaro ss m6
TSP 224r cam(224/224, .581/.581) 114lsa
comp magnum 5/16 x 7.400 pushrods
patriot gold dual valve springs
slp lid, holley power shot filter
hurst billet pro shifter
pacestter ceramic coated longtubes
TSP 3" o/r true duals w/ dynomax bullets dumped
melling high volume oil pump
n-motion LS2 single roller timing set
now my goal is to have a full suspension, h/c/i car, with all supporting mods. and i do have a budget so i am sacrificing adjustability for price. so here is my list so far:
umi k-member and control arm package.
umi bolt on sfc's
spohn torque arm
spohn non-adj panhard
bmr non-adj lca's
bmr 35/25 sways
umi strut tower brace
hotchkis springs
moser axles
detriot true trac
moser 3.73's
stage II t56 rebuild from morris motorsports
fast 92/92
prc ls6 2.5 heads
tsp texas giant cam
now obviously this isn't everything. i am still deciding on things like brakes, valve train, flywheel, clutch, driveshaft, shocks etc etc. so input is welcome
also forgot to mention i am switching back to a y-pipe set up for simplicity so i wont have to worry so much with clearance issues.
2000 camaro ss m6
TSP 224r cam(224/224, .581/.581) 114lsa
comp magnum 5/16 x 7.400 pushrods
patriot gold dual valve springs
slp lid, holley power shot filter
hurst billet pro shifter
pacestter ceramic coated longtubes
TSP 3" o/r true duals w/ dynomax bullets dumped
melling high volume oil pump
n-motion LS2 single roller timing set
now my goal is to have a full suspension, h/c/i car, with all supporting mods. and i do have a budget so i am sacrificing adjustability for price. so here is my list so far:
umi k-member and control arm package.
umi bolt on sfc's
spohn torque arm
spohn non-adj panhard
bmr non-adj lca's
bmr 35/25 sways
umi strut tower brace
hotchkis springs
moser axles
detriot true trac
moser 3.73's
stage II t56 rebuild from morris motorsports
fast 92/92
prc ls6 2.5 heads
tsp texas giant cam
now obviously this isn't everything. i am still deciding on things like brakes, valve train, flywheel, clutch, driveshaft, shocks etc etc. so input is welcome
also forgot to mention i am switching back to a y-pipe set up for simplicity so i wont have to worry so much with clearance issues.
#2
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now obviously this isn't everything. i am still deciding on things like brakes, valve train, flywheel, clutch, driveshaft, shocks etc etc. so input is welcome
also forgot to mention i am switching back to a y-pipe set up for simplicity so i wont have to worry so much with clearance issues.
I would get brembo brakes of you could get the brakes off a Z06 , shox I would say Koni man but KYB is good too price wise.
#3
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yeah i was looking at both the c5 conversion kit and keeping the stock size but going to a 2 piece baer eridaspeed rotor. obviously the c5 conversion is more expensive. so i guess it comes down to budget.
also i want a shock that is a jack of all trades. i live smack inbetween HRP and MSR houston and plan to visit both.
also i want a shock that is a jack of all trades. i live smack inbetween HRP and MSR houston and plan to visit both.
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you still running your 10bolt out back? i would try to put some of that money into a rear end if it was me... especially with all the power your going to be putting down and all the suspension is really going to make you HOOK! that's just my 2 cents... that's going to be a sick build though, good luck with it!
#5
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yeah i may go with a moser 12 bolt package, but only if budget allows. if not then i am just gonna re-stuff the stock housing with moser and detriot guts and pray it holds LOL. also i don't plan on running a slick, so hopefully i can get some slight spin off the line and ease the stress a little. i'm not going for a ***** out track car. i'm building this thing for ***** 'n giggles, not to break any records.
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hey buddy. this is exciting. i say koni ftw. i love mine. but expensive. I love morris motorsports. have nothing but positive things to say about him. He put in my monster clutch. i just cant wait to see it done!!! i would get an adjustable phb. thats the whole point is to center the rear. although u may not have clearance issues like a 315. perhaps stick with all one brand of suspension stuff? i dont know about compatability between pieces. good luck bro
#7
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hey man! long time no see. hows school?
lol i can't wait ether but don't hold your breath i have to survive afghanistan first
but yeah as soon as i get back the car is going on jack stands and everything is getting yanked. and idk about an adj PHB since its only getting dropped an inch, but if i do need an adj one they aren't much more expensive so it should be no biggie. but if i decide to slam the bitch it would prob be a good idea to have one.
but yeah its a $400 diff between koni and kyb. so we'll see.
lol i can't wait ether but don't hold your breath i have to survive afghanistan first
but yeah as soon as i get back the car is going on jack stands and everything is getting yanked. and idk about an adj PHB since its only getting dropped an inch, but if i do need an adj one they aren't much more expensive so it should be no biggie. but if i decide to slam the bitch it would prob be a good idea to have one.
but yeah its a $400 diff between koni and kyb. so we'll see.
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#10
thats the same tq arm i have in the red car. its a very nice piece. but be ready for one thing. noise and lots of it. its bad enough to sound like a broken tq arm mount no matter how easy you drive it.
#11
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yeah i may go with a moser 12 bolt package, but only if budget allows. if not then i am just gonna re-stuff the stock housing with moser and detriot guts and pray it holds LOL. also i don't plan on running a slick, so hopefully i can get some slight spin off the line and ease the stress a little. i'm not going for a ***** out track car. i'm building this thing for ***** 'n giggles, not to break any records.
If I were you, I'd get adj on Panhard bar (poly/rod or rod/rod ends), LCA (poly/rod or rod/rod ends), switch to full length adj T/A and ditch the front suspension package. SFCs and Strut tower bar are questionable on benefiting on a NON ***** out track car. Get a set of Konis (SA), Relocation brackets for LCAs.
Oh, get a hollow front bar (35 mm) from Sam or Hotchkis.
#12
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hmmm idk, the fast 102 is quite expensive. i mean so is the 92 but idk if its worth the extra few cfm or not. but the texas giant is a pretty big cam: 248/254 .615/.622 so you might be right.
and yes ive been to san marcos before, but not since i turned 21. we will def have to make a trip up there one weekend.
exssve, do you think there is a better option out there? this car is going to be a driver. not every day but deffinitely a week end/summer car so i'm not sure i wanna be driven crazy by all that noise.
and yes ive been to san marcos before, but not since i turned 21. we will def have to make a trip up there one weekend.
exssve, do you think there is a better option out there? this car is going to be a driver. not every day but deffinitely a week end/summer car so i'm not sure i wanna be driven crazy by all that noise.
#15
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By the looks of the mod list of what you're planning on buying, you're going full tilt to make it an all out suspensioned out track car (1/4) however your 35/25 mm swaybars dictate that comment.
If I were you, I'd get adj on Panhard bar (poly/rod or rod/rod ends), LCA (poly/rod or rod/rod ends), switch to full length adj T/A and ditch the front suspension package. SFCs and Strut tower bar are questionable on benefiting on a NON ***** out track car. Get a set of Konis (SA), Relocation brackets for LCAs.
Oh, get a hollow front bar (35 mm) from Sam or Hotchkis.
If I were you, I'd get adj on Panhard bar (poly/rod or rod/rod ends), LCA (poly/rod or rod/rod ends), switch to full length adj T/A and ditch the front suspension package. SFCs and Strut tower bar are questionable on benefiting on a NON ***** out track car. Get a set of Konis (SA), Relocation brackets for LCAs.
Oh, get a hollow front bar (35 mm) from Sam or Hotchkis.
so what is the advantage of having poly/rod or rod/rod ends?
also y ditch the front susp package? and the sfc's? i thought our t-top cars flex a lot. and like i said i'm doing this just cuz.
edit: what branch r u in? MOS?
#16
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well the thing is i am building this just because. no real goal in mind just would like the experience of putting it all together myself. but i would like to run on the 1/4 and around the twisties too. wether it be auto-x or MSR houston or whatever.
so what is the advantage of having poly/rod or rod/rod ends?
also y ditch the front susp package? and the sfc's? i thought our t-top cars flex a lot. and like i said i'm doing this just cuz.
edit: what branch r u in? MOS?
so what is the advantage of having poly/rod or rod/rod ends?
also y ditch the front susp package? and the sfc's? i thought our t-top cars flex a lot. and like i said i'm doing this just cuz.
edit: what branch r u in? MOS?
If you're going to be driving this on the streets (potholes, road imperfections) that's a lot of beating on the heaviest part of the car and for AutoXing, I'd suggest a stiffer or beefier K member. IMO, money could be spent better else where like forced induction.
T tops do flex but not a whole lot. I've seen these T top cars go in a corner in a fast rate w/o SFCs and do a three wheeler. That tells me it's not that bad.
I understand about the fun of modding your car however you got mod it to know that it'll benefit you down the road, realistically speaking.
What it all comes down to it, its your car, your money, have fun with it.
I don't have MOS but I do have AFSC. 3E4x1.
#17
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With poly/rod ends your suspension parts can flex a little while poly/poly won't and they will bind during cornering. Rod/rod ends is the same way w/ poly/rod except more flexing allowed and it's noisier.
If you're going to be driving this on the streets (potholes, road imperfections) that's a lot of beating on the heaviest part of the car and for AutoXing, I'd suggest a stiffer or beefier K member. IMO, money could be spent better else where like forced induction.
T tops do flex but not a whole lot. I've seen these T top cars go in a corner in a fast rate w/o SFCs and do a three wheeler. That tells me it's not that bad.
I understand about the fun of modding your car however you got mod it to know that it'll benefit you down the road, realistically speaking.
What it all comes down to it, its your car, your money, have fun with it.
I don't have MOS but I do have AFSC. 3E4x1.
If you're going to be driving this on the streets (potholes, road imperfections) that's a lot of beating on the heaviest part of the car and for AutoXing, I'd suggest a stiffer or beefier K member. IMO, money could be spent better else where like forced induction.
T tops do flex but not a whole lot. I've seen these T top cars go in a corner in a fast rate w/o SFCs and do a three wheeler. That tells me it's not that bad.
I understand about the fun of modding your car however you got mod it to know that it'll benefit you down the road, realistically speaking.
What it all comes down to it, its your car, your money, have fun with it.
I don't have MOS but I do have AFSC. 3E4x1.
and if your right i may scrap the sfc's to safe some coin.
so i take it u r AF? i'm a marine, tactical vehicle operator
#18
well. that tq arm to me is the best you can get . but i just learned to deal with the noise. my passengers seem to bitch about it more than it bothers me. if your ever in the area ill let you check out that tq arm.
#19
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u live right down the street from me. i'm almost always at the kemah meet. and every now and then will hit the other spots. what other suspension mods u have done to yours? i'm assuming we are talking about the 93 Z?
#20
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umi k-member and control arm package. $1,120
umi bolt on sfc's. $300
spohn torque arm. $370
spohn adj poly/rod panhard. $130
spohn poly/rod adj lca's. $180
spohn 32/22 sways. $330
umi strut tower brace. $65
hotchkis springs. $285
moser axles. $245
detriot true trac. $550
moser 3.73's. $185
stage II t56 rebuild from morris motorsports. $900
fast 92/92. $1,075
prc ls6 2.5 heads. $1,425
tsp texas giant cam. [/b]$375[/b]
total for now: $7,535
umi bolt on sfc's. $300
spohn torque arm. $370
spohn adj poly/rod panhard. $130
spohn poly/rod adj lca's. $180
spohn 32/22 sways. $330
umi strut tower brace. $65
hotchkis springs. $285
moser axles. $245
detriot true trac. $550
moser 3.73's. $185
stage II t56 rebuild from morris motorsports. $900
fast 92/92. $1,075
prc ls6 2.5 heads. $1,425
tsp texas giant cam. [/b]$375[/b]
total for now: $7,535
Last edited by brian_rs/ss; 01-25-2010 at 01:29 AM.