Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

I was just curious as to how much you brake stall it at the track? Just because its a 4000 stall, does it mean that you rev it up to that rpm when launching? Is that possible?

Whats the STR on this particular converter?

What kind of times can I expect out of this converter?

What kind of gas mileage are you getting in town and on the highway?

Lastly, please list your track results from this converter and what you think of it overall.

Thanks a lot!

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Colonel...maybe you can help me out. I know youre running this particular converter.

slyws6

I'm running this converter but unfortunately the day I put it in I broke a valvespring so my new heads are going on tommorow hopefully if they show up in the mail, I'll let you know how the car does. As far as the STR it's a 2.55

-Sly

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Does the SS3800 and SS4000 have the same STR because according to Yank's site, the SS3800 has a 2.55 STR. The SS3600 has a 2.5, so I figure that the 4000 would have a 2.6.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Also from Yank's site states that the SS3600 has a 4700-4800 shift extension while the SS3800 has a 4900-5000. So again, I would assume that the SS4000 would have a 5100-5200, correct? I just look at it like this...jump up 200 rpms in the stall, go to the next set of numbers. 4700-4800, 4900-5000, 5100-5200, 5300-5400, etc... Does that make sense and is that correct to assume or is that the way you figure it?

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

The STR of the 4000 will be slightly higher than the 3800; not enough to worry about.

You'll probably need to experiment on launch rpms to see what works best with your set-up. Start at 1000 rpm and experiment by raising your launch rpm by 500 and see how it goes. Keep doing it until you have hit maximum brake stall.

Highway gas mileage should be the same as a stock converter.

My PS4400 holds around 5300 rpm on the upshifts. Expect about 5000 rpm on the 4000 depending upon your shift points and torque curve.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Ive never owned an automatic sports car muchless an aftermarket converter, how will I know when Ive reached maximum brake stall?

Whats the average mileage on the highway with a stock converter? Again I dont know because I have no experience.

If my rev limiter is set at 6700 and I shift at 6500 to allow me enough time to shift the car before I hit the limiter, are my shift points going to change any when I convert? Should I set them the same or higher since the auto is going to be shifting faster than I am? Im going with a non-computer controlled tranny, so I dont know if its any faster or slower than one thats controlled by a computer. Thanks a lot for your input!

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

Maximum brake stall is the most you can stall before the power of the motor just overwhelms the brakes and you start to roll.

Gas mileage is dependant upon many factors (gearing, cam, speed, etc). Just understand that on the highway the converter is locked and therefore doesn't impact your mileage.

You'll have to experiment on the shift points; it takes practice to shift an A4 as fast you can shift a manual. I'd get a shift light light just like an M6.

Colonel

Whats the STR on this particular converter? Check Yank's website.

What kind of times can I expect out of this converter? Anywhere between 13s and 8s...depending on setup and conditions.

What kind of gas mileage are you getting in town and on the highway? 23.5 on the HWY and I don't know in town.

Lastly, please list your track results from this converter and what you think of it overall. Check sig and do a search for the threads I've made about this converter and my track times as of late.

BTW, my shift extension shifting at roughly 6600-6700 is about 5200-5250 on the 1-2 and 5250-5300 on the 2-3 shift.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Ragtop 99: The car is still a 6-speed, but not for long, why would I need a shift light if Im going to let the auto shift itself? Do you auto guys shift them manually or let the tranny do it itself? Im getting the tranny built with an auto. valvebody, where should I set my shift points at? I will be using a 200-4R, so I need to set them right the first time because I wont be able to change them with edit. I personally dont know how to work on auto. trannys, so I wouldnt be able to go in there and mess with the shift points. Do the non-computer controlled trannys have more accurate and faster shifting? If so, then if my rev limiter is set for 6700, I wont have to go as low as I would with a computer controlled tranny because of it being slower and hitting the limiter if I set it too close to it. Does any of that sound right?

Just because I will be running a 4000 stall doesnt necessarily mean that I will be revving it that much at the track prior to launch? I know lots of factors will affect how far I will be able to rev up the engine before the brakes give. I want to do it just before it starts to roll according to your definition of maximum brake stall. So if that ends up being 2500 for instance, then how does the 4000 stall come into play? I will be running ET Streets if that makes any difference.

I always see people launching at different rpms with the same converters, how come different rpms work better for one person than it does the other? For some, hitting the gas off the line works better than brake stalling it and vise versa. How is this? You would think that the higher you get the engine speed, the harder its going to hit, the closer it is to its power range, and the quicker you get out of there, right?

Colonel: I wont have heads yet and I will be running a 3.42s, will the shift extensions be any different than yours?

Colonel

"Colonel: I wont have heads yet and I will be running a 3.42s, will the shift extensions be any different than yours?"

Not enough to even consider. The 3.42s will raise the SE theoretically, and let me stress, ever so slightly but we're talking such a tiny difference that you wouldn't be able to tell. Same goes for having heads. They would increase the TQ a bit at the SE point but it wouldn't be a big enough change to worry about.

BTW, let the tranny do it's own shifting. It'll be faster, more consistent, and more reliable. All you need to do is set the shift points in the ballpark and let 'er rip.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

What should I set the shift points at if my limiter is set for 6700? I know that guys running computer controlled trannys dont put their shift points too close to the limiter because it will hit it. Do you think that if I put the shift points at 6500, it will give the tranny enough time to shift it without hitting the limiter?

Will the 200-4R shift any harder than the 4L60E? Faster? More accurate? I know that the gearing on these trannys are different, but if everything was identicle between 2 cars except 1 had the 200-4R and one had the 4L60E, how much of a difference is there going to be in numbers at the track? Will the 200-4R put down better numbers on the dyno since its a lighter tranny? Is it more efficient than the 4L60E? Sorry for all the questions. But I do appreciate everyones help so far.

Colonel

I have never had a 200-R4 and if I did it would be have a manual valvebody (Why? Because if I were running anything other than a 4L60-E then it means it's going in a full race application.) Maybe someone else can comment.

200-R4s are extremely light and efficient. That much I do know abouth them.

Why the 200-R4 anyway?

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

From what Ive heard, a 200-4R can be built stronger than a 4L60E. Plus, I wanted to go with a non-computer controlled overdrive tranny. Its an easy swap too, easier than me going to the 4L60E.

You state that its lighter and more efficient, what kind of advantages is that going to have at the track and on the dyno? Oh and I talked to Mike himself to verify this info, and he said yes, even with all the best of the best parts out there, the 200-4R can be built stronger.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

When you said "...to allow me enough time to shift the car before I hit the limiter..." I assumed you were getting a manual VB (just like Colonel said). You don't need a shift light if the 200 R-4 is going to be automatically shifted. You'll adjust your PCM's shift tables BY EXPERIMENTING AT THE TRACK until you get the shifts just where you want them. You'll need LS1Edit or similar tool to do that.

FEAR THE LS1

iTrader: (1)

With any converter depending on how much engine power you are making the stall will vary.

I have a Yank SS 4000E it stalls to 4100 rpm with my transbrake.

I put down 404 RWHP through the unlocked converter, TH400, Steel drive shaft and Moser 12 bolt. Not sure what my engine HP would be rated at.

For example, if you had lets say the same setup as me but your motor put out 380 RWHP the same converter would stall to maybe 3900 rpm and if you were making 600 RWHP it would stall to alot higher than 4100 rpm.

Lee

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Ragtop 99: This is the exact sentence/quote you are referring to:

"If my rev limiter is set at 6700 and I shift at 6500 to allow me enough time to shift the car before I hit the limiter, are my shift points going to change any when I convert?"

I was actually referring to my manual tranny I currently have...if you read the end of the quote, I was then referring to the auto. Sorry for the confusion.


The 200-4R is actually a non-computer controlled tranny, so I wont have the ability to go into the PCM and change the shift points. I may be wrong, but I think you have to go into the tranny and remove/add weights to change them.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

I don't how you were planning to set the shift points (every one I know with that tranny has a manual VB) so I didn't even focus on it being non-computer. :o For a mild set up like yours, I don't understand why you are jumping through all these hoops with 200-R4.

Colonel

A 4L60-E is fine for a moderate NA setup running mid 10s or slower. In fact, with the parts that are available now, I think it can work properly down to high 9s if setup right (I ran 10.03 with a 4L60-E way back in the day.)

But yes, a 200R4 can be a major baddass setup for some all out trailor queen 8-9 second racing...but at that point you should be shifting manually, IMO.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Colonel: Why do you suggest that I shift manually? Mike from Century was saying that I could either shift manually or let the tranny do the work, it was up to me. I dunno...it doesnt bother me which one I do, which ever will get me down the track faster.