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Tick Master Cylinder Installation
#1
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Tick Master Cylinder Installation
First, I am not a mechanic and never have claimed to be. So when I drove up and talked to the the guys at Tick Performance about the Master Cylinder for a 1999 Camaro SS, I was worried if I would be able to do it. I read the forms for a long time looking for pictures for assistance and came up empty handed. My brother and I took on the challenge today. I also had my camera ready to take plenty of pictures. The installation went very smooth except for when we went to open the bleeder and my brother dropped the socket in the bell housing. The good thing is since we are going to remove the bell housing, I am going to replace the clutch while I am in there. Good thing we know somebody with a lift. Looks like I will be calling Tick Tuesday morning about their monster clutch kits. I have plenty of pictures of the install and they will be forth coming when I get back home to up-load the pictures. I hope this post will help some other people out there install their master cylinder one day.
Travis
Travis
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Pictures of Installation
This is the Location of the Master Cylinder inside the car, Right behind the clutch.
You have to take off these 2 nuts to loosen the master cylinder from the fire wall.
Clip to remove off the clutch pedal. Sorry its blurry
Hydro Line to remove off left (drivers) side of Transmission. To remove take 2 flat head screw drivers and push in the white part and pull line out. The bleeder screw is about 2 inch's above this. It will take a thin walled 7/16th socket in 1/4 drive. Be very careful and not drop the socket into the bell housing (my brother dropped it in mine)
Hydro line and Heat shield. 7mm bolt heads
After Hydro Line removed from Transmission
Removed Heat Shield
Location of Master Cylinder topside. Its tucked under the Brake Booster. You can just see the braided Hydro line
Close up of Factory Master. Notice the wire loom that's in the way. Hard to move around
Just another close up
This is the differences between the factory and the TICK Master. Yes mine was leaking
Close up of my Bad Factory Master
Close up of TICK master almost in place. This is the hard part. It will take patience cause its a blind spot. Also notice the wire loom in the way. You will have to move it out of the way per the instructions
Installed and Tucked away
Top side view after installed. When this picture was took, I had not crawled back under car to route the Hydro Line
You have to take off these 2 nuts to loosen the master cylinder from the fire wall.
Clip to remove off the clutch pedal. Sorry its blurry
Hydro Line to remove off left (drivers) side of Transmission. To remove take 2 flat head screw drivers and push in the white part and pull line out. The bleeder screw is about 2 inch's above this. It will take a thin walled 7/16th socket in 1/4 drive. Be very careful and not drop the socket into the bell housing (my brother dropped it in mine)
Hydro line and Heat shield. 7mm bolt heads
After Hydro Line removed from Transmission
Removed Heat Shield
Location of Master Cylinder topside. Its tucked under the Brake Booster. You can just see the braided Hydro line
Close up of Factory Master. Notice the wire loom that's in the way. Hard to move around
Just another close up
This is the differences between the factory and the TICK Master. Yes mine was leaking
Close up of my Bad Factory Master
Close up of TICK master almost in place. This is the hard part. It will take patience cause its a blind spot. Also notice the wire loom in the way. You will have to move it out of the way per the instructions
Installed and Tucked away
Top side view after installed. When this picture was took, I had not crawled back under car to route the Hydro Line
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I sure hope this will help take the fear of the install away from just average people when it comes to installing their own parts. If I can do it, anybody can.
Since I plan on removing the bell housing to remove the socket (boooo) I am going to go ahead and replace my clutch and slave including installing the Tick remote bleeder! I have been looking at the stage 3 Monster Clutch. What does everybody think. My car is stock right now. I plan on a getting Heads and Cam at some point. Good Idea or bad on clutch choice?
Since I plan on removing the bell housing to remove the socket (boooo) I am going to go ahead and replace my clutch and slave including installing the Tick remote bleeder! I have been looking at the stage 3 Monster Clutch. What does everybody think. My car is stock right now. I plan on a getting Heads and Cam at some point. Good Idea or bad on clutch choice?
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KrisXpc, I wish I could tell you it has been worth all my trouble but I have not been able to drive it yet. Gotta wait till next weekend at the earliest to work on removing the socket. Everything I have read tells me I am in for a very fun time once I get to drive it! The install was very easy even though it looks tough.
#6
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I was going to strongly suggest you utilize the remote bleeder. I never could get a decent bleed on the clutch line before I installed the tick bleeder (also with a new tick master) - tried the stock bleeder and the mityvac, pedal still never felt great.
I installed the tick with the monster S3 this winter and so far it's been a great setup. The monster grabs well and though it had some decent chatter for the 500 mile break in, its gotten quite a bit better.
I installed the tick with the monster S3 this winter and so far it's been a great setup. The monster grabs well and though it had some decent chatter for the 500 mile break in, its gotten quite a bit better.
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Well an update. I have ordered the Monster Clutch 2 kit from Tick today. They recommended me get this clutch for my set up. I will take pictures of the clutch install also to help people out.
Ferg95 T/A-- Let me know how your install goes.
Ferg95 T/A-- Let me know how your install goes.
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Great write up and i think i'm going to go with the whole monster/tick way too. Where did u guys with the remote bleeder line run it to, or any sugestions on a safe out of the way/place, where you would be able to bleed easily from? And and problems/issues with tick mc or stage 3 yet becides the little chatter during breakin?
#17
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Ran the remote bleeder line up to where the reservoir for the clutch master is, right near the brake master. Convenient, easy to access. I can also see it from the driver's seat, so I can watch when I am bleeding and make sure it's dumping into the container, and look at the fluid color and for any air bubbles.
#19
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For the adjustment, start the clutch pedal out very low. See if you can put it in gear with the car running. Keep backing out the adjustment nut to move the pedal higher, until you hit a point where you can shift into gear with the clutch depressed. The clutch height will most likely end up a bit lower than stock - mine is about even with the brake pedal. DO NOT attempt to adjust it out to stock height. The Tick master moves more fluid than the stocker, and if you use the full range of pedal travel, it will overextend the slave cylinder and damage it.