T/ALT1

iTrader: (3)

Well I finally made a good deal on a used Fast Classic, sequential with datalogger, wideband, tuning software eveything for $850shipped so I jumped on it. I will need a distributor for the Fast and to send the spark to the plugs so I will go with a conventional mounted distributor in the intake, just plug the opti hole on the timing chain cover and swap cams while it's that far down. Since I will be able to turn more rpms it makes since to add some duration and lift. What are the quickest all motor, solid roller, LT1's running for cams nowadays? My current cam is 248/254@50 110L/s 650lift and I would like tio add at least 10degrees on both intake and exhaust duration. Anyways what crank trigger setup are you guys running, distributor some say Vortercs work? How hard is tuning on the fast setup compared to stock pcm's?

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

Congrats man! Cam depends on how much converter you can run. Something in the 4800-5500 range will let you run ALOT of camshaft in a 12:1 383. I'm planning on running something around 270 @.050 later this year, probably doing 1.7 shaft mounts to run about .720 net lift. I want it to peak about 7400. How much spring you want to run, and how much life you want out of them will dictate the lobe profile you want to run. How high do you want to spin it, and how big are the heads on there?

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

You can still use the optical signal in the opti as your trigger. Gut the rest of it and use coils ala LS1.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

^^^ This is what I would do. It is a PITA to play with distributors under a fourth gen cowl, even the low profile crab top ones.

Of course you know the cam will depend on a ton of **** - what the heads flow at what lift, runner size, engine compression, stall size, car weight, gearing, etc.

Your cam is already pretty nasty, what is it peaking at right now?

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

crank trigger and the appropriate distributor wouldn't require too much "messing with," if he's got the money he should do that. Accurate, and trouble free.

toby

iTrader: (1)

as far as the cam. i would look for something around 260/268 and about 650 lift. the lsa needs to be 106. that should get you in the ballpark.

T/ALT1

iTrader: (3)

I will probably go with the crank trigger b/c they are only $230 and don't have anything to go break like the opti. I would like to use opti for signaling and firing but don't know how well it will hold up with the higher rpms. I only want to do this one last time and get this old LT1 running to it's full potential.

lt1badbird

iTrader: (-1)

im running a MSD crank trigger, and MSD pro billet distributor on mine with the opti hole plugged. Was running a converted LT4 intake but im in the midst of swapping to a single plane right now

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Use the Optical portion of the opti, take the rotor out. Use an LTCC setup with coils and the Standalone will fire it. You will only use the optical portion of the opti.

Buddy of mine did this and it worked well, The LTCC box will have to be modded to go up there though(RPM).

T/ALT1

iTrader: (3)

Can you give me some part#'s for distributor and crank trigger you used. i also just swapped to a single plane so I plan on using that hole in the intake and get rid of the opti all together. I don't want 8 coils when one can do the job. Thanks Clint

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

just a suggestion... they're kinda spendy but you should look at getting a dual sync distributor from f.a.s.t. or accell (mallory). that way you can run sequential. the opti will also let you run sequential (at least in dfi) lust my take on it.

T/ALT1

iTrader: (3)

Checked into that already and they have problems with those distributors over 7krpms also. My friend Tim herrington blew one up, (Accel dual synch) brand new tuning the Gen7 DFI on the dyno so he then went to the crank trigger which is only $230. So why not just put the trigger plus MSD billet and forget about it. Later

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

hm good info thanks i didn't know that in that case whenever my opti blows up i'll probably go crank trigger with a crab cap.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

I have the dummy dist you need to put in the rear of your intake. Its new.

In the link in the sig

T/ALT1

iTrader: (3)

Thanks David but actually I am looking for: MSD part#8570 or the newer one part#85551 b/c it also has a cam sensor on the distributor so thats all I need for the DFI, crank trigger and cam pickup. LMK Thanks Clint

STOCKTA

iTrader: (8)

I have a brandnew 85551 never installed Im thinking of letting go, let me know if your interested. And it is capable of dual synch when I was looking into a cranktrigger to run with it. Figured I wouldnt need a cranktrigger with my mild build so I was going to use it just like old school setup. Im so hating selling off my toys but family comes first!

T/ALT1

iTrader: (3)

Definately interested and was thinking about the distributor having a pickup so why would I need the crank trigger also? LMk Later

twin turbo 383 lt1

efi conections make a trigger for the cam and crank for the lt1 i have a ls1 pcm ls2 maf and a ls2 coils on my 383 lt1 with a ls1 crank and cam made to the lt1 motor what do i need to run the fast kit on my engine

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

You can use the opti signal but I wouldn't reccommend it......mine was misfiring above 7300 with the opti....i switched over to a msd crank trigger for the signal and still used the opti to send the spark to the plugs......im revving to 8000+ and not having any issues......as for the cam thats about where mine is im a high 250/ low 260 with .703/.713 lift w/a 1.6 and its on a 107 and I peaked at 7400 and made usable power to 7900 almost 8000.