Xer0ta

Ok so it's my first Lt1, I obviously haven't built one before so i'm looking to you Lt-Pros for some advise. I've done my research and this is what i've come up with as far as potential packages.

I'm looking to make 400 hp at the wheels, you guys take a look at this setup and tell me what you think. Also any opinions on the heads and cam is GREATLY appreciated!

Pace Setter Long Tubes
Pace Setter Off Road Y-Pipe
Borla Cat-Back Dual/Dual

SCC Ram Air Hood and Box
Edelbrock 58mm Throttlebody + Airfoil
Edelbrock Air-Gap LT4 Intake

TCI 3000 Stall
Richmond 3.73 Ring and Pinion

Good Dyno Tune

Ok here is the heads and cam i'm considering, this is where I need your help

Comp Cams ''XFI'' Hydraulic Roller Camshaft
Operating Range: 2000-6000 RPM
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 230° Intake / 236° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.6 Rockers: .576'' Intake / .570'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 113°

Edelbrock RPM Xtreme LT4 Cylinder Heads
54cc Chamber Volume
195cc Intake Port Volume
75cc Exhaust Port Volume
2.02" Intake Valve Diameter
1.57" Exhaust Valve Diameter
Maximum Valve Lift: .600"
-Flows about 270/190 @ .550

Heads come port matched to the intake and i'll have the intake port matched to the 58mm TB.

Think that will do what I want it to? Any differing opinions?

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

360rwhp tops

bigj2717

iTrader: (15)

Instead of buying heads send yours to some body like LE or AI and have them ported and have them make a cam for you. Also dont waste your money on the Edelbrock intake get your stock one ported and it'll flow better

Xer0ta

So it would be smarter to send in my heads and intake to LE and have him port and match the heads and intake, and do a custom grind cam is what your saying. And teh power available from something like that?

joelster

Ai heads, LE heads or AFR heads will put you way further ahead than Edelbrock stuff. Are you keeping it a 350? You didn't state otherwise so I'm assuming that you are. If you are going to take the car to the track you'll want more converter than that. That cam peaks higher than what Comp says it does too. It's more like 4000-6600rpm.

bigj2717

iTrader: (15)

Yeah thats what Im saying. The power really depends on your budget and things. But look on his site and it says what his normal kits give you

Xer0ta

Yeh prolly gonna keep it a 350, no stroke job in the near future. I was also looking at the Le2 package you guys just suggested, with a 226/230 degree, .565 lift, 111 LSA cam and send him my intake have it ported and matched all for 1800 + shipping. opinions on that setup + what i listed above (exhaust, TB, ect)

pillarpod

if it was my car i would ditch the Edelcrap and for a stall get a Yank or Circle D

Xer0ta

Yank and Circle D both have nice 3200-3400 stalls for about 700 dollars each. not to bad I can afford that. Think a 3400 stall is good enough for a 400 rwhp car with 3.73 gears and a cam with a 2200-6200 powerband?

z_speedfreak

iTrader: (3)

there you go, much better than your first plan! good thing you came here first cause edelbrock + LT1 = an expensive, under-performing heap you would actually loose HP w/ their LT4 intake. if you have the coin thou personally I'd get trickflows 21* heads and send them off to LE.
also you can save some $$ by going with a professional products TB, its a company started by a disgruntled ex-edelbrock engineer w/ cheap prices but high quality stuff so it seems.
edit: and don't forget some rockers like some CC ultra pro mags and some springs if your not getting new & assembled heads

SpeedDensityZ

iTrader: (5)

Hell, I think that was being generous through an auto. LOL. Like everyone else has said, Advanced Induction or Lloyd Elliot is your best bet. Oh, and if you're gonna be running the 4l6oE I would bump that stall up to a 3600 and take advantage of the lockup.

Xer0ta

well if im going to go with the LE2 package i'd grab come CC gold 1.6 rockers and the head package comes with nice 155 lb closed beehive springs.

lemme go check out a PP TB

quick question. As far as the rockers go, do just normal SBC 1.6 rockers with 3/8 studs fit the LT1 heads or is it a special rocker like the LS ones.

Xer0ta

That PP TB is nice, but I see summit racing has their 58mm polished TB with included gaskets and mounting hardware for the same price. anyone have experience with something of that nature?

SpeedDensityZ

iTrader: (5)

I run the Comp Cams Pro Magnum rockers. Yes, regular SBC rockers will work but, you will need to add guide plates.

There is much controversy about throttle bodies in this section. Some say you need it and some say the stock one is sufficent for your power level. The same can be said about the ported intake too. I have a BBK and it works okay. I like the way the Holley is setup though. My buddy has one and it has been a better TB than the BBK IMO. I know there are a few other companies that make though.

joelster

I run the Summit 58mm TB, and have had no issues. I can't say if it's needed at your power level, but it is a quality built piece and it's priced right.

z_speedfreak

iTrader: (3)

don't get 3/8 rockers!! upgrade the studs to 7/16, those 3/8's are all over the place at high rpm

Xer0ta

Hm...

Well I work in an auto parts store so I have access to vendor items cheap and quickly and I priced a few rocker sets today tell me what you guys think

CC Magnum Rockers with Magnum Pushrods (1.6)- 16pc set for 298.99
CC Magnum Rockers with High Energy Pushrods and Guide Plates (1.6) - 16pc set for 277.99
CC Pro Magnum Rockers with Magnum Pushrods (1.6) - 16pc set for 405.99

All 3 sets say they use "OEM Size Stud"

I'm assuming no matter what i'm going to need guideplates with it? When I looked it up by application in our computer only 1 of 11 sets mentioned / offered guideplates.

z_speedfreak

iTrader: (3)

theres a video floating around here some where showing how much those 3/8 studs flex, if you saw it you wouldn't be considering them. weather or not you need guideplates or not depends on if you get SA or NSA rockers, personally I'd get NSA rockers unless you insist on keeping the 3/8's studs then NSA rockers would be kind of pointless since you wouldn't(shouldn't) spin your motor high enough to take advantage of them.
o and don't use the GM guideplates cause there not hardened

Xer0ta

So 7/16 studs are the way to go than. I'm fine with that. Do they just bolt onto the head or do I have to have some work done to the head to make the studs fit? assuming i go with 7/16 studs and a non self-aligning rocker, hardened guideplates and hardened pushrods, should be fine that way right?

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

If you have never done something like this it would probably be best to buy a cam kit. It takes all of the guessing out of the equation so you don't end up spending more $$ down the road fixing your mistakes.
http://www.advancedinduction.com/AiProductsCK.html