LT1DOC

Building my first LT1 for a 96TA. At this point I have just started gathering information and parts. I haven't completly decided on the internals but it will be a 383.

I was wondering, those using a electric water pump with the drive shaft and bearing removed. Did you build a screen restrictor for the bearing hole? I'm thinking the extra hole could cause oil to drain to quickly. Any thoughts..

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

The hole is high on the front of the front china wall so it's doubtful that much oil actually passes through it when it's open. FWIW, the front block hole where the EWP was on my motor has been open for 6 years. If anything, it provides the timing chain with extra oiling.

69gto96z

iTrader: (13)

Same here, 3 years of it being open with no issues.

duh

iTrader: (16)

you can leave it open it won't hurt anything....infact most high dollar sbc are cleaned up around those two front drain back holes....it allows the oil to return to the pan faster, therefore allowing it to be used again quicker....stupid old-school tricks for ya....

ulakovic22

iTrader: (12)

Not that I think you are going all out, but you actually want to control the oil flow to front or rear of the block so it does drain back over all the rotating assembly. If anything you should epoxy/vent tube the windows in the center of the block and make sure your oil goes elsewhere. Of course you would have to test everything to make sure the oil actually doesn't collect in the valley after doing so.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Exactly what components on the rotating assembly depend on drain back from the oil valley?

LT1DOC

Thanks for the comments. I'm not going all out just want a strong running car. I'd like to at least be able to run high 7's (1/8). I had a 377 in a older model camaro and ran 7.80's. If I could match that I'd be happy.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

As already stated, you do not need any restriction in the oil valley. There is no need to "control" oil drain back in any way. The faster it gets to the pan the better. The rotating assy. is oiled via crank/rod journals and oil escape from those journals. Don't epoxy/vent tube anything. That's utterly retarded.
I too have been running an e-w/p and no w/p drive shaft for the last three years spinning the engine to 7200rpm. It's fine.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

yep mines open as well been that way with my 7000rpm 350 that ran for two years wit no issues and been that way for 2 years now on my 385 ripping 8200rpm.....leave it open its high enough where oil wont dump excessivly down the front and a bit extra oil splash on the chain wont kill anything anyway........i run a solid roller setup with no restrictors anywhere.....i got alot of oil up on the top end but it keeps everything nice and cool

and SSS is right the rods and mains are pressure oiled from internally in the block they dont depend on splash.......the pistons do depend on splash (unless you've got lube tubes ) but you'll be fine.....

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Oil spray from rod journals provides plenty of lubrication for pistons and wrist pins.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

yep....yea i had them do the lube tubes on my olivers when i bought them.....got forced oiling to the pins

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Well yeah.. especially spinning to 8K and having valvecovers full of oil.

GIZMO

iTrader: (8)

This is a good topic!

As mentioned above, you want to get the oil back to the pan as quickly as possible. The reason for using screens is to stop broken valvetrain parts from reaching the rotating assembly, etc.

There are a couple of reasons for restricting oil flow. They really don't apply to street motors. Especially with hydraulic lifters.

On a high RPM solid lifter motor it is common practice to put restrictors in the oil passages that feed the lifters. This keeps oil in the pan which ensures that the bottom end has a good oil supply.

It is also common to install plugs or vents in the lifter valley to reduce windage, etc.

ulakovic22

iTrader: (12)

Sorry, re-read my post and does should be doesn't. You want to keep the oil to the front or rear of the block so it doesn't drain back over the RA. The rest of my post should still be accurate though.

ulakovic22

iTrader: (12)

It's not retarded. It's not needed on a street motor, but there is absolutely nothing retarded about it.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Then you've ruled out about 98.9% of the engines on this forum. You have no idea of the application of the OP's engine, yet you are suggesting he does it. That in itself is retarded.
No. It's not. The SBC oiling system works well the way it is as long as a good windage tray is used. There is absolutely no rhyme or reason why drain back has to be controlled "to the front or rear" on these engines.

ulakovic22

iTrader: (12)

Quit trying to make a mountain out of a mole hill. In the first sentence of my post I said, "Not that I think you are going all out." Meaning that the rest of my post was based upon someone who wanted to go all out would want to control the oil flow away from the RA.

******* drama queens on this site, I swear.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Right. You are challenged with the crap you've been posting on this thread and you start to cry. How dare anyone question your intellect. Who is the drama queen?
If you have no idea what his setup is then why did you...
... suggest this?
That is telling me regardless of his setup he should do what you are suggesting.

ulakovic22

iTrader: (12)

Drama......Queen.....

Why are you getting all bent out of shape?

Edit: That's rhetorical BTW, but I'm sure you'll have some response

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Why would you suggest to epoxy/vent tube anything when you have no idea of the OP's setup?