My Big Brake swap
12-31-2010, 01:54 PM
#1
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: fort walton beach,fl
Posts: 1,954
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My Big Brake swap Well I'm at it again..i figured i would post this here since alot of beginners start here and may not know this and for those of you i talk to regularly. Still working on paint in various stages,plan on interior soon,gathering valve train goodies ,changed my exhaust a little this morning at the shop up the road..
But I'm now dick deep in a brake conversion...i currently have around 500miles on my sliver zinc plated drilled slotted rotors and pads F&R (Hardly signs of any wear & front now Available for sale for 93-97lt1 f-body) PM me
I have decided to jump on the band wagon and do the "LS1 Swap" Fronts ONLY FTW!..as its been found that there is little to no gain from all the work of swapping the rears ..
For those of you that don't know the parts needed for this conversion are found on any 98+ f-body..That's right ANY ...V6 or V8 . My family owns a paint and body shop with a junk yard and until recently i didn't realize it but there was a totaled 48,000mile 00 Camaro V6 sitting out there along side a 97 Camaro V6 and a 95 T/A
..So i grabbed a long sleeve shirt some gloves,a hammer,pair of needle nose,a jack and an adjustable wrench and Went to Strippin' ;D and inside of 30min i had both complete assembled steering knuckle assembly removed from the ball-joints and Gladly paid my greedy uncle $120 then headed to the impact gun where i disassembled it all to be sand blasted then i will paint it all... calipers will end up red with a T/A decal on each.
My score and ** parts needed are as follows Calipers,spindles,knuckle,rotors,brake line from caliper, ABS pigtail from caliper** . since my stock hubs have 180,000miles on em' now these used ones are as close to new as i should need really
***A tip to removing the hubs from the knuckle easily is to loosen the hubs bolts just a little and whack the bolt heads with a BFH and it'll POP right out same goes for the ball-joints @ the castle nuts ..back the castle nut off to the top of its threads then Whack em' out***
I've also read "to take complete advantage of the swap get a 98+ master" ..not sure why but if i feel like it I'll go back and grab that too
For your viewing pleasure, Pic's to come when i go pick up the blasted parts today and after paint,then during install
But I'm now dick deep in a brake conversion...i currently have around 500miles on my sliver zinc plated drilled slotted rotors and pads F&R (Hardly signs of any wear & front now Available for sale for 93-97lt1 f-body) PM me
I have decided to jump on the band wagon and do the "LS1 Swap" Fronts ONLY FTW!..as its been found that there is little to no gain from all the work of swapping the rears ..
For those of you that don't know the parts needed for this conversion are found on any 98+ f-body..That's right ANY ...V6 or V8 . My family owns a paint and body shop with a junk yard and until recently i didn't realize it but there was a totaled 48,000mile 00 Camaro V6 sitting out there along side a 97 Camaro V6 and a 95 T/A
..So i grabbed a long sleeve shirt some gloves,a hammer,pair of needle nose,a jack and an adjustable wrench and Went to Strippin' ;D and inside of 30min i had both complete assembled steering knuckle assembly removed from the ball-joints and Gladly paid my greedy uncle $120 then headed to the impact gun where i disassembled it all to be sand blasted then i will paint it all... calipers will end up red with a T/A decal on each.
My score and ** parts needed are as follows Calipers,spindles,knuckle,rotors,brake line from caliper, ABS pigtail from caliper** . since my stock hubs have 180,000miles on em' now these used ones are as close to new as i should need really
***A tip to removing the hubs from the knuckle easily is to loosen the hubs bolts just a little and whack the bolt heads with a BFH and it'll POP right out same goes for the ball-joints @ the castle nuts ..back the castle nut off to the top of its threads then Whack em' out***
I've also read "to take complete advantage of the swap get a 98+ master" ..not sure why but if i feel like it I'll go back and grab that too
For your viewing pleasure, Pic's to come when i go pick up the blasted parts today and after paint,then during install
Last edited by defaultexistence; 01-01-2011 at 09:55 PM.
12-31-2010, 02:33 PM
#2
I did the same swap last spring. Deffinately a good upgrade, but get some good brake pads. I bought some durlast golds from autozone and they leave alot to be desired IMO and once their hot (which doesn't take long at all) they suck. Get some Hawk pads I have heard alot of good things about them
12-31-2010, 03:30 PM
#3
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: fort walton beach,fl
Posts: 1,954
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
good to know..i'll prob go ahead and start with some golds on these rotors that i had turned to get me going..and buy some hawks and flashy rotors in a month
12-31-2010, 04:36 PM
#6
My rear brakes are going to consist of cobra rotors, cobra calipers, and hawk pads Possibly EBC coated rotors, but I haven't heard enough about them to pull the trigger just yet. Just alot of advertisement on power block 
Front will be new rotors (cooked mine) maybe EBCs again and hawk pads. But I have alot more going on than just brakes, just have to keep my progress slow but sure
Like I mentioned the upgrade is worth it, but those Gold pads from AutoZone suck, and they are just as much as the hawk pads are so don't waste your money IMO
Possibly EBC coated rotors, but I haven't heard enough about them to pull the trigger just yet. Just alot of advertisement on power block Front will be new rotors (cooked mine) maybe EBCs again and hawk pads. But I have alot more going on than just brakes, just have to keep my progress slow but sure
Like I mentioned the upgrade is worth it, but those Gold pads from AutoZone suck, and they are just as much as the hawk pads are so don't waste your money IMO
Trending Topics
01-01-2011, 12:14 PM
#9
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: fort walton beach,fl
Posts: 1,954
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well since i'm running a lil short on $$ ,patience and i wana do this NOW.I chose to have the rotors i got from the Camaro turned and bought wearever silvers...they are shitty i know but in a month i'm getting flashy rotors and hawk pads..so why spend more than necessary ... heres some Post sandblasting primer and paint shots
01-02-2011, 04:51 PM
#11
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: fort walton beach,fl
Posts: 1,954
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well...today i got right to the swap ,yesterday it was raining like a somebitch,
i noticed almost right away that the engine doesn't try pushing thru the brakes at a red light or when power braking anymore.
after i tore down the original setup i weighed everything old parts and new crunched the numbers and the total weight change is a loss of 10lbs.
The LT1 model knuckles and iron calipers where heavier and the ls1 rotor is heavier.
In all I'm happy with the mod not only for its looks but its extra stopping power ..cant wait to see what Hawk pads and drilled slotted rotors do to its feel..might grab those later this month
Michael
i noticed almost right away that the engine doesn't try pushing thru the brakes at a red light or when power braking anymore.
after i tore down the original setup i weighed everything old parts and new crunched the numbers and the total weight change is a loss of 10lbs.
The LT1 model knuckles and iron calipers where heavier and the ls1 rotor is heavier.
In all I'm happy with the mod not only for its looks but its extra stopping power ..cant wait to see what Hawk pads and drilled slotted rotors do to its feel..might grab those later this month
Michael
01-02-2011, 07:37 PM
#12
You should NOT swap the master cylinder to the 98-02 F-Body version unless you’re also swapping to the 98-02 rear disc brakes. The LT1 (93-97) F-Body rear brakes need a residual pressure valve to overcome the pad retraction springs in the (rear) calipers. The earlier master cylinder has this, the later does not. Been there, done that, got the scars.
The marketed kits to install C5 front brakes on any forth gen F-Body have the caliper mounting bracket and should not need the knuckle swap.
As these cars have the ABS module, understand that the only way to properly bleed them is by pressure bleeding them, all four corners of course. Don’t have a pressure bleeder or a bud that does? Have a shop do it-it’s a good way to flush your system too.
You all do know the best rotors for braking are blanks, not drilled and/or slotted, right?
The marketed kits to install C5 front brakes on any forth gen F-Body have the caliper mounting bracket and should not need the knuckle swap.
As these cars have the ABS module, understand that the only way to properly bleed them is by pressure bleeding them, all four corners of course. Don’t have a pressure bleeder or a bud that does? Have a shop do it-it’s a good way to flush your system too.
You all do know the best rotors for braking are blanks, not drilled and/or slotted, right?
01-03-2011, 05:52 PM
#14
TECH Regular
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 481
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
01-04-2011, 06:06 AM
#16
Village Troll 
iTrader: (2)
Not sure if the C4 calipers have a different pos. on the brake line, but I was able to use LT1 brake lines w/ my C5 conversion w/out them stretching from lock to lock. For the love of all things holy, use a sawzall above any other option as well as a can of WD-40 to keep the blade cool and lubed. Job will be done in minutes compared to using a grinder or hack saw.
01-04-2011, 07:59 AM
#17
I've seen it mentioned quite a few times that you have to purchase a set of aftermarket spindles to run C5 calipers. I've never seen or heard of these aftermarket spindles, but there are companies out there that sell aluminum brake caliper brackets that will allow you to install C5 brake calipers on your factory spindles. I purchased a set of these brackets and 13" rotors for my car years ago, but I never did get around to installing them.