AIR Removal Question (With Pic)
#1
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AIR Removal Question (With Pic)
Ok, I have everything out of the car. I had a bit of trouble trying the get that little piece (where the two AIR tubes have a junction point) towards the back of the driver's side valve cover off. I took off 1 10mm nut that I could see, then I wiggled the thing and it seemed to snap off of it's bracket. I was like, oh well, cool. So then I unplugged the little connector on top of it and everything was free to come out. Can I just leave that one connector there and put some electrical tape around it? Is that all I have to disconnect back there or have I done something wrong? I seem to remember people talking about a hole to plug, but I'm not seeing the need for it!
Please see the pic I have included of the connector.
Please see the pic I have included of the connector.
#3
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hey man, you can leave that connector unpluged if you want but that hose will need to be pluged up. if you can feel to the back of the intake, there is a tee that the AC vacuum and the AIR vacuum hose connect. you can remove the tee and just plug the AC vacuum hose back into the intake. then you can just remove the AIR vacuum hose completely from the car and you will not have a leak.
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Yes, I did pull the pump at the same time..felt good to get it out of there..
So I can just plug the end of that connector line real good and I won't have any problems with crap getting into the intake? I did feel around back there but I didn't want to start ripping things out because I do know that there is that vacuum line. I'd rather just leave it and plug the hole in the end of that connector if I can. I have FRCs waiting to go back on so you won't be able to see it anyway..
So I can just plug the end of that connector line real good and I won't have any problems with crap getting into the intake? I did feel around back there but I didn't want to start ripping things out because I do know that there is that vacuum line. I'd rather just leave it and plug the hole in the end of that connector if I can. I have FRCs waiting to go back on so you won't be able to see it anyway..
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Ok Shawn, golf tee seems like a good idea. I'll put some RTV along with the tee, maybe it will seal up a bit better.
Yep, I got the cam. Also took my TB off today (getting a ported/polished on before the cam goes in) and got a shift light installed...I'm making preparations.
Yep, I got the cam. Also took my TB off today (getting a ported/polished on before the cam goes in) and got a shift light installed...I'm making preparations.
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#8
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Originally Posted by taqwache
if you can feel to the back of the intake, there is a tee that the AC vacuum and the AIR vacuum hose connect. you can remove the tee and just plug the AC vacuum hose back into the intake. then you can just remove the AIR vacuum hose completely from the car and you will not have a leak.
#11
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Originally Posted by ChevyWeatherman
Ok, I have everything out of the car. I had a bit of trouble trying the get that little piece (where the two AIR tubes have a junction point) towards the back of the driver's side valve cover off. I took off 1 10mm nut that I could see, then I wiggled the thing and it seemed to snap off of it's bracket. I was like, oh well, cool. So then I unplugged the little connector on top of it and everything was free to come out. Can I just leave that one connector there and put some electrical tape around it? Is that all I have to disconnect back there or have I done something wrong? I seem to remember people talking about a hole to plug, but I'm not seeing the need for it!
Please see the pic I have included of the connector.
Please see the pic I have included of the connector.
#13
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Originally Posted by SSactionLs1
mines been open for over a year
hmmm...then perhaps it won't leak
I remove all of that stuff and do a direct connection to the vacuum port on the back of the intake manifold. A) no reason to have extra junk hanging around B) it CAN"T leak how I have it
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When I removed my AIR setup I also didn't plug the connector and it ran fine with my LS6 cam at the time. When I swapped to the TR224 the increased Vacuum casued unmetered air to be sucked into the Intake and read by the MAP while the air was not getting read by the MAF. This resulted in a PO101 code and a miss at low rpms under steady acceleration. After months of frustration trying to find a fix Mikey at Rapid Motorsports plugged up the connector and it has not done it since November.