Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

I know this is getting to be a popular item in here, but I'm wondering what you guys have spent for a total cost to get this setup.

I developed a horrible misfire right at the end of my driving season and I have a feeling I ruined another opti. The first one the bearing went out of it and the rotor would wobble and I think that 3 years of 7k rpms finally took its toll on my new one.

I really haven't got into finding the problem right now, I have other projects in line first, but it obviously has to get fixed.

Now back to the 24x kit, I have plans for a new motor and would like to set up the kit on my current motor and work out the bugs before hand so I don't have to do it with a fresh motor.

But I'm curious to see what you guys have spent on the kit, I know the prices are on their site, but I also know that the little extra bits and pieces can add up quick.

And has anyone been successful fitting a double roller timing chain with the kit? And if so whats involved with fitting them together.

Thanks in advance and sorry if its been gone over, I thought I looked over most of the 24x threads

green96ta

iTrader: (11)

This is what I know so far. Im going to be doing this very soon, if your not picky about some of the parts you can scrounge them up used. Like the coils, coil harness, pcm, and brackets. You can probably find all of that stuff for around $250. Ok, now onto your questions.

As far as a double roller with the 24x kit you HAVE to buy their billet timing cover. Then you will have to machine the hub for the extra space of the double sprocket and the reluctor. Im personally hoping the professional products hub im gonna order will work without machining since it comes with so many spacers.

S10Wildside

Let's talk 1996-97 LT1 engines and a double row timing set...
The clearance between the crank seal area of the timing cover and 4x crank reluctor is minimal as GM designed it. If one were to make a new 4x reluctor that first cleared a double row timing chain on the back side (toward crank timing sprocket) and second was dished out on the front side to clear the crank seal area of the timing cover, you will find that there is no material remaining of the reluctor. So that means you must move the crank seal area of the timing cover forward. Your next problem is that the lower optispark "leg" or mount is significantly limiting the distance the crank seal can move forward.

This is the issue with the GM timing cover, double row timing set, and crank reluctor.

green96ta

iTrader: (11)

But you can run it if you buy your billiet timing cover, right? Or have I read bad information somewhere?

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

S10Wildside/Mike,off topic, any update for obd1 4l60e running the 24x?

ThreeHonks

iTrader: (10)

It is absolutely not compatible with the LS1 pcm. I burned through 3 transmissions doing this (I was basically the guinea pig).

The pump, valve body and seperator plate are all different. It is not jsut a converter locking issue (I got mine to lock fine). It will bleed off pressure and cause it not to be stable. Your 3-4 clutch pack will fail after some time. You have been warned!!!! lol

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

So what's the OBD I trans fix? Swap to an "OBD II trans "lol

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

So, in other words, SOL for us obd1 4L60e for this LS1 pcm conversion.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Ok so can I do a billet timing cover, double roller, and then turn down the hub to keep the belt in line with everything else?

I have a Cloyes double roller timing chain, stock cover and stock 95 crank hub and absolutely no issues at all. I would like to keep the double roller, it just makes me feel a little more comfortable

Now as far as cost I know I can get used parts, but I also know there is a gamble doing so.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

How is that possible, what in the trans is physically different between the OBD I and OBD II 4L60E's?

robsquikz28

iTrader: (246)

the trans is different..PWM and the other isnt. Shift solenoids/valve bodies are different. VSS sensor is different as well

ThreeHonks

iTrader: (10)

Yes, you need to either swap to a 96-97 housing with all the late model parts OR you can take your trans out of the car and swap to the newer valve body (and electronics), newer seperator plate, and the newer pump.


partially right. Shift solenoids are the same besides there is no PWM solenoid and the 3-2 downshift noid is changed, the harness is different as well. The VSS is a different connector, but it does not make a difference in how the trans operates.


I was nervous doing this conversion with an early year 60e, but at the time EFI told me that it should work just fine with tuning. They never gave me any reasoning on why I NEED to run a 96-97 trans. $1000's of dollars later I learned the lesson and now I try to warn everyone else

ThreeHonks

iTrader: (10)

you guys can feel free to pm me if you need more info on this. Or ask a question in a thread so I can answer it publicly, so more people can benefit.

qc97z

iTrader: (9)

A common misconception here is that this will cost over $2K. Not true. If you purchased the entire EVERYTHING from EFI Connection's site, then yes, you'd probably be touching $2K.
I bought almost the entire kit (everything but coils) with the pre-made 'plug n play' harness lightly used for $1100. My coils were $100. Wires another $100 (LSX DIY MSD's). So for $1300 I was up and running.
What's the big deal about double rollers? There are single roller cars out there that are drag only turning 10K+ rpms that run single rollers. I'm making pretty damn big power, and I'm also running a single roller without issue.
To me, running a double roller with this setup is more of a PITA than bargained for. And the cost goes up significantly, without the same ratio of benefit increase.
I'm sure with more scrounging than I did and re-pinning your own harness, the 24x conversion can be had for around $1K.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Whats a good single roller timing chain? I know there are fast cars with a single on there, but I have always used and was told to use double rollers so that technique it burned into my brain LOL

And I'm not planning on getting everything from EFI, but I'm getting the harness, possibly the timing cover, and maybe some other stuff I don't know yet.

But what coils are the recomended ones to get? I'm still debating if I should drop the coin to get this or just get another opti and hope for the best.

ThreeHonks

iTrader: (10)

search my recent threads for a thread on a good single roller

qc97z

iTrader: (9)

Any LS series coils will work. It all depends on how you want to set them up. I started with the truck style ones, and ended up switching over to the coil set that EFI Connection offers, just because I liked their look better and went with a clean premium look for my whole build.
The sky is the limit with coil mounting, you can do anything you want. Moroso makes extension harnesses for the main harness to coil sets, but Casper's can make them any length you want (I custom ordered a set from them and ended up not needing them).

S10Wildside

Yes, any of the TPIS billet aluminum LT1 timing covers will clear a double row timing set.

S10Wildside

The exact same is true if you wanted to install a 96-97 LT1 PCM in a 94-95 LT1 car...or swap a 94-95 4L60E into a 96-97 LT1 car.

It's not just an LS1 PCM sort of thing.

S10Wildside

I'm still fuzzy about this. But there is more talk about this in the http://www.impalassforum.com.

A few threads...
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...0e+differences
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=227225