Traction Control won't stay on.
#1
Traction Control won't stay on.
What would cause the traction control to turn off? When you first start the car, you can flip the switch and the TCS turns on and off, light goes on, light goes off, etc. As soon as you start moving, the TCS off light comes on and the switch does nothing until you turn the car off then back on again. As far as I can tell, there are no codes showing up. I just had the emissions codes tuned out and there were no other codes or issues showing up.
What I know of what was done to the car, the rear carrier was replaced with a 3.23 up from a 2.73. The computer has all the of the correct settings now as well. The tires in front and back are both 255, but Goodyears and Sumitomos.
When I got the car, the TCS module was unplugged under the hood and the switch had 2 wires clipped, twisted together and taped up. A brown one and another if I remember correctly. I repaired all that, plugged it back in and now the switch works as stated above, but the TCS will not stay on and the switch does nothing after you start moving. I'm not familiar with the TCS system and really have no idea what is causing this or how to fix it. I have an SLP reverse module for it and would like to get it functioning again.
What I know of what was done to the car, the rear carrier was replaced with a 3.23 up from a 2.73. The computer has all the of the correct settings now as well. The tires in front and back are both 255, but Goodyears and Sumitomos.
When I got the car, the TCS module was unplugged under the hood and the switch had 2 wires clipped, twisted together and taped up. A brown one and another if I remember correctly. I repaired all that, plugged it back in and now the switch works as stated above, but the TCS will not stay on and the switch does nothing after you start moving. I'm not familiar with the TCS system and really have no idea what is causing this or how to fix it. I have an SLP reverse module for it and would like to get it functioning again.
#3
I'd rather have the traction control functioning as it was in my previous car. It was quite helpful in the rain. The SLP device is just so I don't have to turn it off everytime I get in the car when it's dry out. I know most people want it off permanantly, but I'm that one guy that wants it functioning as I do find it useful occasionally, lol.
#4
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iTrader: (5)
If you get it to turn on and use it... you'll change your mind. This is first generation TCS - hardly worth a dime.
The TCS on this car will not help you while you are driving. It only kicks in when you are starting from a stop and going very slow.
What's the other car you want it to work like?
The TCS on this car will not help you while you are driving. It only kicks in when you are starting from a stop and going very slow.
What's the other car you want it to work like?
#7
I had a very similar/the same issue when I first got my car (TCS would turn off and and not turn back on until you turned hte car off and on, and the switch would work just fine if it hadn't turned itself off) The solution: I needed a new TPS sensor. Yes it sounds wierd, yes it sounds unrelated, yes it 100% fixed my problem. You might not know your TPS sensor is going bad if you had a bunch of emissions related codes tuned out, but I'm not the expert on codes, so you'll have to ask someone else.
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#8
Hmmm, TPS sensor is an interesting suggestion. Cheap enough too... I'll check the sensors when I get the car up on a lift next week to replace the tranny and torque arm mounts. That'll be the best first step. Make sure they at least look good.
Yes, it could be the fact that the previous owner replaced the 2.73 carrier with a 3.23. I thought getting that set up properly in the computer would fix the TCS, but no go. The computer now knows the correct ratio and wheel size at least. It still could be the cause though. The PO also had at least one rear wheel bearing replaced as it was roaring. He also supposedly replaced the other one some time back, but I can't confirm that. Not sure if screwing with the wheel bearings, if the mechanic damaged the sensors.
Also, I do agree that the TCS isn't the greatest in the world. I did use the ASR on my previous 99Z though. Without it on, I'd spin and fishtail off the line when it was raining. With it on, at least it wasn't much of an issue in the rain off the line. The Z had loads of power too, so that made it far far worse with it off.
Yes, it could be the fact that the previous owner replaced the 2.73 carrier with a 3.23. I thought getting that set up properly in the computer would fix the TCS, but no go. The computer now knows the correct ratio and wheel size at least. It still could be the cause though. The PO also had at least one rear wheel bearing replaced as it was roaring. He also supposedly replaced the other one some time back, but I can't confirm that. Not sure if screwing with the wheel bearings, if the mechanic damaged the sensors.
Also, I do agree that the TCS isn't the greatest in the world. I did use the ASR on my previous 99Z though. Without it on, I'd spin and fishtail off the line when it was raining. With it on, at least it wasn't much of an issue in the rain off the line. The Z had loads of power too, so that made it far far worse with it off.
#9
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iTrader: (5)
Yes, it could be the fact that the previous owner replaced the 2.73 carrier with a 3.23. I thought getting that set up properly in the computer would fix the TCS, but no go. The computer now knows the correct ratio and wheel size at least. It still could be the cause though. The PO also had at least one rear wheel bearing replaced as it was roaring. He also supposedly replaced the other one some time back, but I can't confirm that. Not sure if screwing with the wheel bearings, if the mechanic damaged the sensors.
Have you scanned specifically for ABS/TCS codes?
#10
Personally, no. Would they show up in Hp Tuners though? That's what was used to modify the computer settings. I'm pretty sure when we went over the settings that he went over traction control settings and didn't see anything wrong or report any other codes though. I think.
#11
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iTrader: (5)
The main thing people scan is the PCM. (Some scanners can't go beyond that.) Its probably worthwhile confirming if you can or have scanned for ABS/TCS or Airbag codes. Those codes come from other computers in the car.
You could have a speed sensor, etc. causing problems with the TCS system since it and the ABS system share a bunch of parts.
You could have a speed sensor, etc. causing problems with the TCS system since it and the ABS system share a bunch of parts.
#12
I shouldn't even mention this, but, it was the fuse. There was no fuse in the TCS BAT spot. The previous owner cut and spliced the wires at the switch, unplugged the module and removed the fuse. I doubt they could have done much else to disable the system short of calling a priest out for an exorcism or tossing the module in a black hole. For what it's worth, the system works now. With the virtually free SLP module I got, it stays off all the time and is there for bad weather emergencies should it ever be needed. I don't expect any miracles with it, but it sure can't hurt having the option available to use it if needed.
Now to figure out why the ETC spot has a 15 amp fuse instead of the 10 that it's rated for.
Now to figure out why the ETC spot has a 15 amp fuse instead of the 10 that it's rated for.