Forged 346 or Forged 408??
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Forged 346 or Forged 408??
Spun a rod bearing a while back and now needing advice.
Looking for the selling point of spending the extra around 1500 bucks difference.
Future goal
No S/C
Nitrous maybe
Track fun, spirited driving - its my weekend toy.
My mods are as follows
1997 C5 Targa Top 6speed
LS1 Stock Block-(Spun rod bearing at the track)
243 Heads Ported and Polished by Shawn Miller at VA speed, TEA Springs, Stock rockers
Va Speed custom cam (231-239-608-612-113) Underdrive pulley
LS6 Intake, stock TB,
Stock inj and Fuel pump/ 89% duty cycle as it was running.
Aluminum Flywheel and Textraila ZGrip clutch
BR2 Varaam RAI
85MM Maf
OBX header backs, no mufflers (which was done by previous owner)
424rwhp 392rwtq
1-If I go with a 408 (HKE and upgrade to this cam "242° 0.610" 244° 0.612" 113°+3°") with my current mods would I hit 500rwhp? Since I would not be upgrading my Intake to a fast until later this winter/spring.
2- If I go with a forged 346 I would not gain anything besides having a strong bottom end that would only be set it up for a S/C or Nitrous correct? I understand that my motor would be built but why forge a 346 if I am not putting a 200 shot or a S/C right?
3- If I only gain 50rwhp by upgrading my block to a 408/cam with my current other mods. Thats 300 bucks per 10hp. Not something I can really justify myself spending 4500 bucks and only get 50rwhp more than spending 3100 and having my same hp.
4- Forge the 346 take the extra 1500 and put a 150 shot?
Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.
-Josh
Looking for the selling point of spending the extra around 1500 bucks difference.
Future goal
No S/C
Nitrous maybe
Track fun, spirited driving - its my weekend toy.
My mods are as follows
1997 C5 Targa Top 6speed
LS1 Stock Block-(Spun rod bearing at the track)
243 Heads Ported and Polished by Shawn Miller at VA speed, TEA Springs, Stock rockers
Va Speed custom cam (231-239-608-612-113) Underdrive pulley
LS6 Intake, stock TB,
Stock inj and Fuel pump/ 89% duty cycle as it was running.
Aluminum Flywheel and Textraila ZGrip clutch
BR2 Varaam RAI
85MM Maf
OBX header backs, no mufflers (which was done by previous owner)
424rwhp 392rwtq
1-If I go with a 408 (HKE and upgrade to this cam "242° 0.610" 244° 0.612" 113°+3°") with my current mods would I hit 500rwhp? Since I would not be upgrading my Intake to a fast until later this winter/spring.
2- If I go with a forged 346 I would not gain anything besides having a strong bottom end that would only be set it up for a S/C or Nitrous correct? I understand that my motor would be built but why forge a 346 if I am not putting a 200 shot or a S/C right?
3- If I only gain 50rwhp by upgrading my block to a 408/cam with my current other mods. Thats 300 bucks per 10hp. Not something I can really justify myself spending 4500 bucks and only get 50rwhp more than spending 3100 and having my same hp.
4- Forge the 346 take the extra 1500 and put a 150 shot?
Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.
-Josh
#2
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A forged 346 with a 150 shot I think would make more then your setup on 408. If you aren't doing a 150 shot I wouldn't forge the block and just buy a cheap rotating assembly somewhere else.
I do think the 408 would see 500 on your setup though.
I do think the 408 would see 500 on your setup though.
#7
I was in a similar thought with mine but a 383 forged bottom end with a 231/239ish cam or a forged 346, I'm going the 383 route now just 50/50 if to go for FI set up or up the comp a little and stay n/a. Mine will be street driven and maybe once or twice a year track work, mainly just weekend driving though, mines an auto also, so I'd go up the cubes and nitrous or FI if budget there.
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#8
I went forged 346 for peace of mind more than anything else. Evertime I tried a stock block I wound up with spun bearings and terrible oil pressure. I got the -2cc diamonds but I never intend on spraying it. Sometime I wish I would have went with the lower compression pistons and built a forced induction system.
#9
Internet Mechanic
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WHen you spend for forged parts the difference in price comes down to machining and if needed block cost. Most of the issues people run into is going bigger on cubes is they cannot afford to go with the appropriate heads and valvetrain (sometimes intake, bolt on mods, converter, rear gear, and tuning) that the motor really needs.
Unless your plan on heavy nitrous use or some sort of FI just go basic on a small cube rebuild.
Unless your plan on heavy nitrous use or some sort of FI just go basic on a small cube rebuild.
#12
TECH Addict
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I have a forged 346 on juice, and I really wish I went for a 408, even an iron one. A 408 will always have room to grow, not like your 346. 383 is a good option but I dont think its gonna cost you any cheaper than a good deal on an assembled iron 408/413/427.
You can always buy bigger heads/intake later. A good set of cheap LS3 heads is a nice choice for the budget minded street performer.
Be sure to get a custom cam for the stroker/LS6 intake combo: something thatll peak in the 6000rpm area; It'll be a TQ monster! I noticed on many builds here that plp have problems getting those strokers spinned past 6200rpm with big *** cams...
Do it once, do it right...
3,399$ for an iron 415ci shortblock--> http://www.schwankeshortblocks.com/s...?i=1497&c=1086
You can always buy bigger heads/intake later. A good set of cheap LS3 heads is a nice choice for the budget minded street performer.
Be sure to get a custom cam for the stroker/LS6 intake combo: something thatll peak in the 6000rpm area; It'll be a TQ monster! I noticed on many builds here that plp have problems getting those strokers spinned past 6200rpm with big *** cams...
Do it once, do it right...
3,399$ for an iron 415ci shortblock--> http://www.schwankeshortblocks.com/s...?i=1497&c=1086
Last edited by Johnnystock; 08-17-2011 at 11:17 AM.