mred

iTrader: (5)

what issues you are you having with running high temps with engine and the ac running.
i have a 4000 stall
i have a freaking gigantic cooler which measures 13x11.5x1.75 its a freaking notebook and it takes up almost half of the condensor.

i am also leaving all of the air deflector plastic stuff in place just to make sure the condenser and radiator can get all the air flow.
i am just concerned that the big trans cooler may take up too much space and cause some other cooling issues in this Texas heat.
thanks
Ed

slow67

iTrader: (2)

I have that same cooler......my transmission has hit 220 once....and I can count on one hand how many times it has broken over 200....but mine does have lockup (4L80).

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

I ran Yank ST3500 5 years with no temp guage with OE cooler and 24000 fin and plate cooler/fan installed after OE cooler, and burned 2 sets of 3/4 clutches, about 8-900 miles ago installed Yank SS4000 AND 24000 tube type with fan and ADDED temp guage in pan still going threw OE cooler allso, after TC lock up @ 45 mph running temp about 180-190, but if cruies in town @ 10-15 mph temp goes to 220-230 , tried bypass OE cooler and temp DID NOT change still slow cruise at 220-230 I am going to reconnect the OE and stay out of slow town cruise.
both of the ext coolers with fans are mounted DOPE STYLE

ps : I talked to the trans tech at local dealership who goes to dealer school each 6 months for update on trans, he stated that shool teaches that IF bypass OE cooler the external cooler looses about 40% of its cooling efficency

I was also told that to run more that one ext cooler they MIGHT cause high trans pressure which would cause high trans temp ?

as stated I am running OE cooler/ one 24000 plate and fin with fan/ one 24000 tube type and fan and still IF do town cruise @ 10-15 mph beyound 10-15 minutes still running 220-230 trans temp ??

I also need help
MY apoligy to the OP, sorry for stepping on ypur post
Johnny

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

The air deflector forces the air to go through the condenser and radiator instead of going around it. You should put it back on.

The stock cooler acts as a heater, it attempts to match the two fluids (trans and coolant) temps to each other. In cold weather climates I would recommend to leave the factory cooler functional. In TX, not so much. Some people have done back to back tests and have shown little difference though. To prove my point run both setups, and watch how quickly yours trans gets to temp with the stock cooler hooked up. Bypass it and you will see the trans takes much longer to heat up, however, final running temps may be similar. I prefer to bypass it on simple principle. A tube and fine cooler does not slow the fluid down so it does not cool the fluid as good, whereas a plate cooler restricts (slows down) the fluid so it has a chance to cool off some. For the southern states, a plate cooler is better.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

High cooler pressure drop is bullshit. The lines matter
more.

Mount it horizontal in the inlet chute if you can. This
lets more air get at the condenser / rad.

Fur sure clean the rad and condenser of debris, you
will be surprised how much crap sticks up in there
and how long it takes to quit coming out.

mred

iTrader: (5)

right on...
i cleaned the hell out of my rad. and cond. when i had it all tore apart.
so i will mount in the chute area and keep it off the condenser the best i can.
thanks
Ed

mred

iTrader: (5)

**** my cooler is just to damn big i guess. it is right up against the condenser.
this sucker is big....
thanks for the advice and what not.
i may have to get a smaller cooler.
thanks
Ed

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I just installed that same tranny cooler. I put it on the drivers side but I zip tied it up against the car...not up against the condensor. So now I have dual tranny coolers.......my old one thats been there for years on the passengers side is on the picture below.

Don't put tranny coolers up against the condensor....mount it standing away frpom it so the ram air flows all around it and through it........and mixes with the ambient ram air, then that air goes through the condensor and radiator. Putting it up against it puts HOT air the size of that tranny cooler right onto the condensor. Just my thought process.......I'd rather the hot air coming off the coolers mix with outside temp air BEFORE going through the condensor.

.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I have mine on a bracket to the lower radiator support also. It is a big MF.

GNXClone

iTrader: (7)

This comes from PATC's site:

"Transmission Cooling: You must have a transmission cooler in your radiator regardless of what someone has told you for the transmission to last. Auxiliary coolers are just that, in addition to. Water cools 32 times better (faster) than air always, period. The transmission fluid comes directly from the torque converter at a much higher temperature than the water in your radiator and is cooled to the water temperature fast. Then it goes to the auxiliary cooler to be cooled far below the water temperature. If you don't need a cooler in your radiator why does GM spend all that money doing so? If you wanted to cool a red hot piece of steel fast would you stick it in water or air, see the point. For the best cooling you need both water and air cooling for the transmission to be cooler than the motor."

pancho toco loco

iTrader: (8)

^^^^^^ Very good points. I think ppl forget when you look at your coolant temp gauge the reading is not coming from the radiator, I have a seperate gauge on my rad cap, it always reads about 20deg cooler then what my gauge says. The thing I worry about is there a pressure drop from running the factory trans rad cooler and a Auxiliary cooler? I have the same size cooler as the OP...... I run it seperate. Also alot of ppl over look the converter efficiency. I tried a 3600 stall as a test for a weekend, it ran cooler then my current one which id only 2800stll