sc.schultz

iTrader: (2)

I just installed in my '97 SS LT1 T56:
Competition Clutch Stage 2 (2250)
-clutch
-pressure plate
-throwout bearing
-pilot bushing
Resurfaced stock flywheel
ARP Flywheel bolts
Flushed transmission fluid

I was very particular when tightening down the flywheel and pressure plate bolts, making sure they were done sequentially. I also used a T56 input shaft as the clutch alignment tool. Anyways, when I take off in first gear, the car kind of jerks,shakes,shudders,chatters violently. It doesn't do it as bad at higher RPMs or when the engine is warm. I have put less than 50 miles on this clutch so far and wanted to find out if this is normal clutch chatter or if something was done wrong?

Lastly, there is a tiny bit of slack in the clutch pedal. It's not much, but with what is present, the clutch pedal seems to vibrate or bounce back and forth. I was wondering if this is just because the throwout bearing is new or if it needs to be bled? Maybe neither?

If the description isn't enough, I'll try and post a video.

Thanks

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

The material is listed as "Brass Plus/Cerametalic."
Ceramic material in discs will grip better at higher temps and engagement is more abrupt. It should get better as you drive, there usually is a break in period.

BALLSS

assumeing your install was good and the parts are working properly you are experienceing what is called "chatter". As mentioned the ceramic disc material is more aggressive than organic.

It should go away after the 500 mi break-in and your driving habits adjust to it.

sc.schultz

iTrader: (2)

Is it normal for me to have to rev to 2000 rpms for a less chatter take off during the break in period?

tbag_skywalker

Don't think I have to rev to two grand with my Spec2 clutch, but I can say I do have to rev a little higher than I had to with the stock clutch or the whole car shakes and jerks like crazy until the car gets moving. It was worse during break-in, though it never completely went away.

I think you'll be fine.

Just for *****, did you make sure when you finished torquing down the pressure plate that it was sitting flat against the flywheel? One of the guys in the LT1 section just had this problem, the plate was sitting unevenly and was causing a ton of vibrations. You sound like you were pretty meticulous about your install, but I thought I'd ask anyways just in case.

sc.schultz

iTrader: (2)

I'm not exactly sure how you check to see if it is sitting flat against the flywheel, but when I torqued them down, I did make sure the pressure plate was sitting flush against the flywheel all the way around. I would imagine this would mean the clutch was sitting flush. I ended up having to tighten each pressure plate bolt a turn going around in a star pattern until it would sit flush. Once each one was flush, I then torqued them down to 22 ft/lbs.

Oh and the clutch pedal only vibrates back and forth within the amount of slack it has. If I lightly rest my foot on the pedal it doesn't do it. I'm assuming this is because theres a gap in between the clutch fork and slave cylinder, allowing the fork to bounce back and forth? I'm going to bleed to clutch soon and see if that resolves this issue.

BALLSS

you need to find the "sweet spot" on engagement of rpm's and how fast you release the clutch. you don't want to slip it. while you may need some more rpm's your release should be on the quicker side vs slipping it. I am not saying dump the clutch.

just a learning curve AND break-in

with this said the more aggressive disc material will always be less forgiving on engagement but you should get the hang of it quickly. stop & go traffic, starting from a incline will be the most challengeing conditions.

tbag_skywalker

In all honesty, I don't think anythings wrong with your car. You installed everything properly and followed the rules. It just sounds like you need to drive the car and get that clutch broken in. That clutch is a lot grippier than a stock clutch which makes it trickier to get used to. Chatter/vibration will be normal during break-in, and may not completely go away with that specific type of clutch.

Couldn't hurt to bleed the hydraulics I guess, but I don't think it will make anything better, unless the clutch is engaging too close to the floor.

I guess I'd have to actually drive your car to see exactly what you mean. But like I said, I think you did everything right and you just need to put some miles on the car, let the clutch break-in and let yourself get used to it and all will be well.

sc.schultz

iTrader: (2)

I've been driving it a lot since I posted this thread. I think I have maybe 100 miles on it. It's starting to fade away and my driving is adapting to it. It's no where near as bad. Thank you everyone for the help.