CamaroManLS1

iTrader: (1)

So I have pretty much figured out my suspension kit I am going to get. I am getting Bilstein HD shocks, adj. panhard bar, and LCA relocation brackets. Well I am stumped on which springs to get. My SS has the stock decarbons, it doesnt have the upgraded ones from SLP. I was looking into either, eibach pro kit, bmr, or strano. I want to know which one will give it the best looking stance. I also want the front slightly lower than the rear. ive seen pics of all these but some seem higher than the other but then sometimes its the opposite. What exactly are the isolators and how do they affect the height? Much help appreciated

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Fronts that drop you -1", and hose-mod the stock rear springs. An even drop all
around will not look quite right.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Our springs will drop you down about 1.25-inches from stock both front and rear. The back will normally sit a little higher since it do so from the factory.

CamaroManLS1

iTrader: (1)

damn, i think you have me sold on bmr judging from those pics

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Good!

Feel free to give me a call since we sell everything you're looking to buy.

- Kevin

DANSBIRD

iTrader: (2)

I ran Eibachs for 5 years... they always set lower in the back and it annoyed me.... I just put on Strano springs and couldn't be happier. The car now looks great.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...ring-kits.html

Looks are subjective.

Also, don't think you need every part on your list just because you are lowering the car. You don't. Might want them, but don't need them. And fwiw, I sell Bilstein's and they start @ $379.99/set for SLP's (and these days the two are the same shock, so why pay more?).

CamaroManLS1

iTrader: (1)

What do you think I don't need? Do I just need springs/shocks? I read that they recommend doing other stuff to help the car adjust to the lowering

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

We never recommend lowering on the stock shocks, especially the DeCarbons. We sell several packages with Koni and Tokico shocks/struts because they work well with lowering springs. There are people who have had success with Bilsteins as well.

BMR encourages lower control arm relocation brackets and an adjustable panhard for a reason. Lowering the car will impact its ability to gain traction because it will change the lower control arm angle. Whether you notice this or not will depend many factors, but the fact is you have just changed your control arm angle and we make a bracket that will correct it and improve traction by doing so.

The adjustable panhard is more of an aesthetic piece, unless it's really out of whack, for those who are bothered by the rearend not sitting squarely in the car. The design of a panhard suspension is set to a specific spring height. When this height is changed, the length of the panhard must be altered to counter this but the factory panhard is a fixed length (and flimsy). We've seen cars lowered to the point where the springs don't even sit correctly in the perch.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I know you read. Funny enough, my car is lowered and what do you know.... I don't have aftermarket LCA's or brackets on it.

Yes, you want shocks, you NEED to do shocks if you want the car to drive well. You would be well served to get an adjustable PHB. Skip the other stuff, because you don't need it just because you lower the car. And if you find you want it, it's easy to add later.

See, that's the thing I hate about the 'net. It's too easy to read something (often based in fairy-tale land) and then it becomes fact. I also would like to point out, while it'd be easy to say you need that stuff, and I can sell it all to you (I could, I have it), I don't believe it's the right thing to do.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

I'm speaking from the countless calls (and the threads that have been posted on a near daily basis) we get from our drag racing customers who can't understand why they can't hook after they lower their car. If this is encountered, then there are parts that can fix it.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

No need to debate this.

I take a let's see what happens approach, because I find we often have no need for them. Some take a different approach. To each his own. I didn't see anything in the original post to make me think they are required. I don't see where he drag races, and I don't much like the effect they can have (in a bad way) on handling. There is the difference. Some of us are about handling, some of us are about drag racing.

V68Sweep

Well, I'm not going to even try and argue against either BMR or Strano, but I would think that if the OP doesn't need any one thing, it would be the adjustable panhard bar.

OP, I would personally take BMR's advice and do the lower control arm relocation brackets and new lower control arms if you can. My car is lowered with new shocks and I do not have LCAs and I have bad wheel hop when I try to take off hard-this can be damaging to your rear differential. I am going to go with LCAs soon so I can hopefully not break my 10 bolt very soon :/

Good luck!

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

And I can launch my car @ 4k rpm and have NO wheelhop. Don't you think it's smart to see if you need a part before assuming you do? I have nothing against LCA's or brackets, when necessary, if are used for the right reason (or any reason that actually exists). I know, I'm just insane. :/

V68Sweep

Lol, no one is calling you insane.

I try to live by the philisophy that it is better to be safe than sorry. Upgraded/better performing parts are always a good idea in my opinion, unless money says otherwise.

OP, do whatever you feel is best for your car

JD_AMG

I think you missed the point. There are parts that are aftermarket that are not always "better" than the stock parts.
Relocation brackets may help launch (they didn't do much for me - wasted money IMO) but can also hurt handling.
Some LCA's (like poly) can bind, which hurt handling and ride, while something like rod-ended LCAs can be noisy, and harsh. Some situations it would be better to stick with stock LCA's and 1LE bushings.
So you may end up buying something because someone wants to make a quick sale with their brand name on it like LCA's or relocation brackets, then when you get them you don't need or like them. Its better to wait to see if you need them IMO.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

Lowered with the hose mod w/ Koni's....1LE style LCA bushings with no relocation brackets....I didn't notice any difference with launching.

Granted, it's less of a drop, but I noticed my car sits lower from the factory than some do without lowering springs.

What I'm saying is, don't buy parts until you try something and see what you'll need. The most you'll be out is $80 or so for the brackets and a few days waiting for them to come (when you can still drive your car).....the best case is you save $80. I'd only go with aftermarket lower control arms if you are having issues launching and new bushings for stock LCA's won't cut it.

DANSBIRD

iTrader: (2)

When I lowered my car, the rear end kicked out pretty far on one side. The adjustable PHB was the fix for this. I would say it was absolutely necessary.

V68Sweep

Mine stayed perfectly centered.

I guess this would have to fall into the Wait & See category as well.

DANSBIRD

iTrader: (2)

More times than not, it's seemed like it was a must. So much so when I got mine, Thunder Racing was having a package deal w/ their springs that included the BMR adjustable PHB.