dirtydeeds

I hope this hasn't been beaten to death.

I searched and couldn't find a conclusive answer:

Is there a benefit to one over the other?

I see where drive by wire would be good since you just have to mount the accelerator. But drive by cable you'd have to mount the pedal, make sure the cable works, etc. etc.

Seems simpler to do drive by wire? Please advise, all opinions welcomed.

spacemanspif

iTrader: (5)

There are a lot of people that simply don't trust the DBW design and would prefer to be directly connected to the throttle. DBC people are always quick to jump on DBW failing but never seem to mention all the times that cable throttles have gotten stuck. Not wanting to deal with wiring is another reason, and pedal feel too. Its really up to the individual and their budget. I say that if you buy a complete engine and it has DBW, keep it...same for DBC...use what you have to keep the costs down.

ANTICOP RAM AIR

iTrader: (7)

I bought a 2003 mazda6 and I drove it for a year before I realized it had DBW... I took all the intake **** off to do a full tune up on it and when my wife turned the car on, the throttle body cycled from WOT stop to stop... scared the **** out of me. haha.. I had my fingers inside it to clean out the TB... I never noticed it didnt have a cable...I also never felt a funky pedal either...Id say the DBW systems have an aesthetic advantage as well as an advantage for swaps...

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

I can't recall seeing to many suggest dropping dbw if it's already in place. The exception would be if you are trying to save some money after you put on a new intake and large aftermarket tb.

John McGraw

Might as well just get used to DBW, because on late-model LS engines, you do not have the option for DBC. All the CAN stuff will only work with the DBW throttle. I have it on 4 of my cars and like it just fine. I have one car with a LS1 that is DBC, and I really can't tell the difference.


Regards, John McGraw

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

Never heard of any vette guys complaining and there are plenty of cam,d vettes out there. Btw the y are Dbw.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

I have DBW on my 05 pickup and an both my 72 442 and 68 corvette LSx swaps. No issues and they integrate cruise control into the ecu.
As was pointed out, later ECUs dont even have the capability for an IAC driver needed with cable TB.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

I'm thinking this guy might blame his driving on a DBW "issue"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzlg3...ature=youtu.be

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

He really should blame stupidity. It's obvious the road ahead has a slight curve to it and he thinks he can go WOT through there!!!

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

One possible reason to convert may be reaction time. I've noticed several times where my foot position is out of synch with what the computer is doing. In fact, a common complaint of DBW is late reaction to sudden acceleration after a slowdown (example: approaching a red light you know is going to turn green, and attempting to "time" it for a quick jump). I've had my G8 "think about it" for a second before reacting to a quarter-throttle hit. Under similar circumstances, my TA would just go.

Mind you, this isn't enough for me to jump over to DBC. It's just an irritation I've learned to live with. I understand some tuning adjustments may reduce occurrences. However, some people may be bugged enough by this slight disconnect between driver intent and computer delivery to make the conversion. It may be especially critical in racing scenarios.

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

I think the biggest advantage to drive by wire is if you want to add cruise control to your swap vehicle. It makes for a much easier/cleaner setup.

91sonomast

I personally like DBC, if you are doing a swap and have to change the pedal or didn't get the factory pedal it can be difficult to figure exactly what you need or if the pedal from the vehicle the engine came out of doesn't work in your particular situation that could create an issue but, you can get a grinder and welder and make any necessary modifications you need to do to make it work. I've only seen a DBW pedal crap out once on a '08 Impala. Like stated above, you can have that hesitation when you hit the accelerator but, I haven't really noticed it except in one Silverado I drove but, his TB was NASTY and gunked up, cleaned it and the hesitation was almost gone, very slight. It comes down to a matter of what you want whether you go DBW or DBC.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

The Corvette Vid again..LOL...

93Polo

iTrader: (5)

C5 guy here and you will hear very few complain about it but I wasn't very fond of the throttle response on the DBW. It seems to be a split secon behind.

If I'm going through the effort to complete a swap I'll go with what I like which is the cable.

1976CamaroGuy

iTrader: (8)

Question:

If I have a 2004 silverado 5.3 engine and harness that came from the factory with DBW and I want to convert over to DBC using a PCM from a 2004 Express Van

Other than removing the tac wiring and adding the wiring for TPS and IAC and using a cable driven throttle body all of the other wiring is the same correct?

My big reason for swapping over is pedal options....I am limited to the bulky factory 2004 silverado pedal which have have already shortened.....but the switch housing takes up a lot of real estate in a 2nd gen camaro

Using the cable lets me keep the factory pedal so I know everything is in the right place and looks factory

psiconversion

iTrader: (5)

If you are changing to a car intake you will have to change the injector connectors and move the MAP lead.

Jon
PSI

74novacustom

Or just do what i did and cut the pedal assy to a stump, bolt it to the firewall and cut and weld your factory pedal to the assy so it retains the factory pedal in the factory location. In my nova oddly enough there were two factory holes in my firewall that lined up..

Kingstir

Anyone tried the Lokar throttle pedal yet? They make some claims about it removing the lag time and being programmable. Wondering if someone has the proof?

Blanchard