temp sender install
#2
Easiest solution, get a temp sending unit manifold. It's about $40. It's about the size of a tic-tac box, only fatter. You can get them in various thread sizes to match your cooler line size. Then go to your local parts store and get a couple of adapters (NPT to barb, whatever, etc). Install it inline in the return line and your all set.
#7
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Another vote for the pan - I have a bung welded to my pan also for temp sensor.
Temp sensor in cooler lines will not give accurate temp of tranny temp.
There supposedly is a port already in the 4L60E case that you could use also, but I would think pan temp is still more accurate representation of temp
Temp sensor in cooler lines will not give accurate temp of tranny temp.
There supposedly is a port already in the 4L60E case that you could use also, but I would think pan temp is still more accurate representation of temp
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And for anyone reading, the pressure port can work, however, it is a 1/4 NPS straight threaded hole. A sending unit is typically 1/4 NPT tapered thread. Meaning one is the shape of a soda can and the other is the shape of a pyramid. They aren't made to work together.
#9
1Quikws6, good to know... Any thoughts on how different the temps would be between the 2 locations, pan vs. return line? We talking 20* or 100* difference? (assuming normal street driving) Well, shoot... I bet ambient air temp and air flow over the sending unit in the line would impact it as well. Guess I'll have to rethink my previous answer.