BashamWS6

iTrader: (8)

Alrighty time to plan out the mods for spring
lemme know what you think

Tune: Front or dyno? (i find dyno to be over the top for bolt ons)
Rims: Currently Black powercoated C5Zs im thinking powdercoated gunmetal grey
Tires: Coopers
Rotors: Ebay cheapos
Brakes: Autozone specials
Shocks: Leaning towards (slp) Bilsteins? KYB AGX? I know konis are #1 but id like to stay away from dropping $1100 on shocks
Springs: Stranos
Interior: Gotta get my dash in since the one is cracked now. may look into new carpet since this fits horrible. might get setas wrapped (ill call the local restoration shop to see what prices they shoot me)

Suggestions? Opinions? Reasonings?
Thanks

*** a little side thought

i have the SLP LMII and was considering swaping the muffller for a Borla XR-1. will that quite down the drone?

JD_AMG

Look into Nittos.
Do you not like to stop well?
Look into some quality blank rotors and some hawk HPS pads:
http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbym...=191&ModelID=7
http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbym...D=17&ModelID=7
Koni SA's are not $1100, try $855:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=20&ModelID=7
Easily the best money you can spend on the car if you want handling and ride quality, you won't be able to spend $800 better...
Good choice.

You may need an adjustble panhard bar to recenter the rear end after lowering.

blackandgold

iTrader: (2)

Check out brakemotive for brakes. I have had mine for about half a year and they have been great plus they give great prices. If you go with either kybs or bilsteins you will be happy. Although...who doesn't want konis.

2000badbird

iTrader: (5)

Go ahead and speed the extra on the koni's blisteins are good but if your gonna lower the car your gonna be riding in out. Of the shock valving rate of most shocks and you will be hard bottoming over every bump considering if you have a stock size tire now and goin to a lower profile tire your gonna get less tire deflection and most lowering springs a stiffer to compensate for spring compression so its all in the shocks if you want to drive around jaring teeth out that's all on you but I've been there and done that as far as 1000 for a set of shocks that's absurd I spent 1200 for my Qa1s and springs for my formula but I got eibach springs and koni's on my v6 car and it handles well decent ride and they were used when I put them on bird number 2

2000badbird

iTrader: (5)

Sorry if that didn't make a whole lot of sense I posted from my phone the deal is strano springs are the shiznit but to put them on an inferior shock would be a waste of money

BashamWS6

iTrader: (8)

Nittos would be nice but for the miles i put on, they would never last. Not to mention if i started racing, id throw slicks on it.
As for pads and rotors, Theyre all the same. The d/s wont warp due to better temps and a pad is a pad. I dont plan on running anythig over 85 on the interstate and the cheapos i had on my firebird lasted 35000miles ad were still good even after i totalled it and trust me they saved me from a few deer throughout their life

Again the SLP bilsteins looks good and for $630 i get strano springs with them
UMI PHB and relocatiom brackets will be something ill do this summer if the budget allows me to

beyonddisturbed

iTrader: (5)

good choice with stranos. however I would seriously consider konis. best mod so far for my ws6. do it once do it right. i second the powerstops and hawk pads.

JD_AMG

If you want to sacrifice grip then thats up to you. FYI the factory good years had a 300 tread wear rating, the same rating the Nito NT555 have.
LOL... You are greatly misinformed sir.
Thats like saying a tire is a tire, or a cam is a cam, or a V8 is a V8 etc etc.
Rotors and pads have different thickness, material and build quality -all contributing to performance and longevity.
And drilled/slotted rotors will not only warp, but will crack too if they are not built well (see Ebay rotors - do a search). The whole "cooling" effect is mostly marketing, nothing significant with modern day pads that don't gas out.

blackandgold

iTrader: (2)

^^If the car is a high mileage daily, don't buy d/s rotors for performance. If you like the look of them though that is a whole 'nother story

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

It doesn't seem quite right that you're spending the extra coin for the good suspension parts, but going cheap on the brakes. You need those good brakes too.

BashamWS6

iTrader: (8)

I never said a V8s a V8 or a cams a cam. Im just saying name brands over price so much **** and ~$600 for baer rotors is dumb with R1 concept rotors which were once supplied by ws6store had great reviews for $150
As for tires
http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/tir...47531&pc=11515
Nittos have great grip but im 19... I dont need to be street racing and getting tickets... I have 4 already. Again if i wanna race ill buy some used prostats and throw Slicks On it
With goes with the brakes... My grandpa owned his own garage for 35 years. Hes built chevelles, corvettes, mustangs, camaros, c10s, f100s, blah blah blah. And his advice was Unless im going to be drag racing, brakes are brakes. Say what you will and call it ignorance if you want but for years my dad and his dad and my family has run the autozone/oriely/napa brand brake pads. They last 30k-45k amd our monte carlo is reaching 65k on em and still have plenty left. My trans am has cheapos but on by the last owner..theyre still lasting And again theyre good enough to get me stopped on time. (now at 145... They werent helping but like i said.. I dont plan on doing that anymore...its how i wasted the last engine..)

tswiz'smaro

LOL... You are greatly misinformed sir.
Thats like saying a tire is a tire, or a cam is a cam, or a V8 is a V8 etc etc.
Rotors and pads have different thickness, material and build quality -all contributing to performance and longevity.
And drilled/slotted rotors will not only warp, but will crack too if they are not built well (see Ebay rotors - do a search). The whole "cooling" effect is mostly marketing, nothing significant with modern day pads that don't gas out.[/QUOTE]

I have an honest question, the zr1 drilled zr1 brakes are just marketing? Not trying to be a dick, im actually curious. Thanks!

the impaler

The zr1 rotors are carbon composite, not steel, so there a whole different ball game. It wouldn't suprise my if they were a marketing tool as well though, it's a high end car, might as well look the part!
As far as all brake pads being the same, that's way off. The difference in pad compounds can be night and day.

BashamWS6

iTrader: (8)

not zr1... R1 concepts

the impaler

Yea, tswis'marow's post was asking about zr1 brakes. As far as the Ws-6 stores rotors, I have a set on my TA. They look cool, and have not warped or cracked, but they did not improve brake performance either. Switching to ebc redstuff pads made a world of difference.

BOBS99SS

iTrader: (2)

i wouldnt buy from anywhere else for brakes and rotors

JD_AMG

Are you talking about Baer's lightweight, 2 piece rotors that are thicker/bigger/stronger to the cast iron drilled rotors that WS6 sells?
That is like saying a R-compound tire is no different than a regular street tire... You're not buying the name, you are buying a larger/thicker rotor that is a 2 piece design, look at the actual rotor for god sakes...

Im well aware of what tires you're talking about, Im just saying for the same price you could get better performance (isn't that the point of owning a performance car?)
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...w=false&cs=275


While thats a false statement "brakes are brakes", you may not notice better brakes if you are just street driving like a normal car, this is not what you said before though, and this does not mean "brakes are brakes".

JD_AMG

"the impaler" answered the question well.
The ZR1 has carbon ceramic brakes, a totally different material than the regular iron brakes on many car. Drilling in them isn't bad as they arn't known for cracking, and are actually a dusty material.
Take a look at what actual race cars that use iron brakes are using, all blank or slotted rotors, none drilled... This topic has been covered a zillion times.

BashamWS6

iTrader: (8)

ok well ima have to apologize about the nittos....
i must have been looking at the 555r

and that was what i was saying, im not planning on road course or driving faster than 85 at most so bigger rotors and beefier pads are over the top in my case