ls1 to ls6 intake swap questions
#2
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you will need to decide on how to deal with the coolant tubes. the easiest way it to remove the ribs from under neath the LS6 intake. you do not even have to remove them all. put grease on the coolant tube and set the intake in place, then whichever rib has grease on it when you pull the intake back off just remove that one. it wont do anything to the intake itself. there is also a crossover tube that you can buy that removes the coolant tubes under the intake but it blocks coolant flow somewhat to the rear of the cylinders. new gaskets are also a good idea. while you have access you might want to go ahead and install a new oil pressure sender and I believe there was a TSB about knock sensors under the intake. something about sealing them with RTV to keep water out. there are hard plastic lines on the back of the intake that go to the HVAC. those are very easy to break and are very short making install difficult so the best way to get around it is to put about 6 inches of flexible vacuum tubing inline between the hard plastic and the intake connection point to give you some room to work with. you will know you have it right when you crank it back up and your HVAC switches from vent to defrost to floor. if you havent dont the coolant bypass mod for the throttle body yet you have a coolant line running through the bottom of the throttle body so you will need to work around that as well.
#5
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All you really need, that you probably don't have is a 3 or 5/8 fuel dissconect tool. It makes it easier to swap the injectors. Other than that everything will swap right over with a couple of tools.
#6
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I did it on my trans Am, First time i pulled of the ls1 i broke the oil pressure unit haha. I think everyone does on their first time out. But after the first time swapping it gets easier. Just take your time and have patience and check the PVC lines too make sure they are not broken.
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#13
Staging Lane
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ive never had any issues with breaking the oil pressure sensor. ive had the intake off several times before doing h/c swap, and knock sensor replacement. just gotta be aware of its location.
#14
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I didnt disconnect my fuel lines, just pulled the whole fuel rail out and pushed it to the side, I was careful and still broke the damned OPSU. like aleady mentioned get the socket that fits over reach back there and put it on before you take the intake out. you can also break it putting the intake back on.
#17
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Idk how anybody could possibly break the OPSU. I have done the intake swap about 10 times now with zero issues. I just did it again the other day and from removal of the old one and install of the new one took about 35 mins. Just pull the intake out slowly and disconnect the sensor and the vacuum line on the back and guide the brake booster smoothly and you will have no problem. Same way going back in. Set it in there a little past half way and connect your vacuum line and sensor, and than guide the brake booster hose behind your wires. Before start up do a quick check and make sure everything is connected. Start it up and listen for vacuum leaks and than you're done. Good luck
#18
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My Oil pressure unit was so brittle (from age?) I barely touched it and it snapped off...
It might save you some trouble to go ahead and buy one from Autozone or wherever, just in case, and return it if you don't need it.
Oh and the cowl will eat your hands lol
It might save you some trouble to go ahead and buy one from Autozone or wherever, just in case, and return it if you don't need it.
Oh and the cowl will eat your hands lol
#20
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Honestly man, I would never go through the trouble to do that. I did my manifold swap in just a few hours, very easy job. The cowl removal would make it easier, but it would add more time for a job that's perfectly doable in 2 hours or less with the cowl in. Just my opinion though. Just DONT pull the manifold toward you AT ALL! When you get it unbolted or even before if you can, reach around the back and pull the brake booster line out. I was as careful as possible and only pulled the manifold about half inch toward me for easier access to the lines and the brake booster line still ripped the oil pressure sending unit off