streetknight2

iTrader: (10)

Just wondering if you have any pics and what size tap was needed.

Thanks

63-7867

Try The Bandit's post

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-6-0vvt-4.html

mille_3

iTrader: (1)

The thread size is M10x1.5. Maximum drill depth is 32.5mm. Maximum Tap Depth is 17.5mm

Rick Speed

iTrader: (55)

It's actually a drill bit labeled R for the size tap you need to use.

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

I was going to post something about that earlier. I just ordered an "R" size bit from Grainger for a project I am working on. It was about $6 after tax - not bad for good USA-made bit.

streetknight2

iTrader: (10)

Ok guys, am I missing something. I found this guys pic and it uses an aluminum block, but the hole in question isn't being used and an extra bracket from the rear.

Does this mean drilling the extra hole in front is not needed or what?

TIA

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

I made a drill guide and used a helicoil tapping cast iron is a pita.

Rick Speed

iTrader: (55)

That's the f body bracket that is extra support for the factory and you have to use that other bolt hole. The extra little bracket and one long bolt will fail. The original f body main bracket uses 3 long bolts. The 2 main bolts also hole the alternator in place so it is a must have.

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

On the other end of this comment, I have been told that the rear support is not necessary if you're using all of the bolts in the front bracket.

thenovaproject

iTrader: (1)

Easiest tap ever ls1 truck blocks are soft cast iron bought the tap and drill bit at home depot came together for 8 bux don't be scurred

thenovaproject

iTrader: (1)

Use the bracket as a drill guide

frankmarroquin

iTrader: (31)

Ive used just the one bolt on the bottom and the elbow in the back and worked just fine for me... My setup at the lime was LQ9 with LS3 Top End, Torquer V2 with supporting bolt ons revvin upwards too 7k RPMS.

Snkebait95

iTrader: (16)

I just used the bracket as a guide like thenovaproject said. Mark it with a marker and if your bits long enough you can put the bit through the bracket holes to help keep you straight and level. Very easy i just eyeballed it all and it was perfect.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Good tip. Lots of folks have said they went without it. But, its so cheap and easy to accomplish...why not?

I have a bubble level on my drill. So I used some levels and a floor jack to get my motor as level as I could make it. The top valle cover surface is what I used for reference. Then just drilled it out.

Use electric tape around the drill bit to set your depth...or a locking collar. Drill it, tap it using lots of tapping oil.

Easy.







J.

tired2valve

Pretty Dam easy when I did it. Took my time and everything bolted up perfect. I just have the two on the alt holding it to the block. The. The rear mount was already on the alt so I used it. Just make sure you don't tap the threads crooked.

fox12303

iTrader: (7)

Check out my setup. I installed it on an iron block(ear was already drilled/tapped), though I am showing it on an LS1 now. I have an offset adapter bracket i'm working on which would add the center hole that is missing on the iron gen III blocks. Then the F-body alternator bracket would bolt on using all three bolts and keep the rear support. This would then use the truck pulley offset. The f-body waterpump pulley can be swapped for the truck pulley.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...available.html

Let me know what anyone thinks of this idea. No pictures of the adapter bracket yet as it is not complete, but maybe in a week or so. PM me if your interested.