Time for an overhaul... FI or NA my best option??
#1
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Time for an overhaul... FI or NA my best option??
Short version: 3-years with an STS turbo and 2-years driving at 100+MPH on the Germany Autobahn = not a happy LS1 engine. It's not dead, but is emitting a nasty rattle/whirring sound that echoes through the cat converters. I'm sure the engine is in it's death throwes, even though it only has 62K miles on it. It's led a hard life
Car is currently en-route from Germany to the great US of A. While I wait, I have time to decide the next "build"
So..... what is the best bang for the buck..... FI or NA? This is totally open to $0.02 and bench racing opinions, but it gives me something to think about.
Here's my criteria:
1. Keep the cost around (preferably under) $10K
2. Make 550 or so RWHP.
3. Have a setup reliable enough for daily driving (if needed), road trips, and the occasional autocross excursion (Laguna Seca comes to mind).
4. Keep the AC. I'm moving to Ft. Irwin, CA. AC is mandatory.
5. it's a street car, not a drag car.
I was thinking the following 2 options (though I'm open to suggestion).
1. Procharger D1SC? with a front mount and auto adjusting pully. Mate that to either a Texas Speed forged 347 shortblock or SpeedInc 370 shortblock with my existing 243 heads.
2. A SpeedInc 403 LS2 with the L76 heads or a similiar LMR or Vengeance NA longblock combo.
So....which would be better for the $$, fun factor, and reliability?
I'm in a unique situation in that my car had an STS Turbo on until 2009, so it already has some FI parts (which should save me some $$), to include the following:
1. 2-bar MAP sensor and a HP Tuners 2-bar SD tune (even though it's NA).
2. Return Fuel system with Aeromotive A1000 and Mototron 60lb injectors.
3. Front bumper sectioned for a FMIC.
4. ARP Head studs.
5. Moser 9" with 4.11 gears.
Anyhow, opinions welcome.
Car is currently en-route from Germany to the great US of A. While I wait, I have time to decide the next "build"
So..... what is the best bang for the buck..... FI or NA? This is totally open to $0.02 and bench racing opinions, but it gives me something to think about.
Here's my criteria:
1. Keep the cost around (preferably under) $10K
2. Make 550 or so RWHP.
3. Have a setup reliable enough for daily driving (if needed), road trips, and the occasional autocross excursion (Laguna Seca comes to mind).
4. Keep the AC. I'm moving to Ft. Irwin, CA. AC is mandatory.
5. it's a street car, not a drag car.
I was thinking the following 2 options (though I'm open to suggestion).
1. Procharger D1SC? with a front mount and auto adjusting pully. Mate that to either a Texas Speed forged 347 shortblock or SpeedInc 370 shortblock with my existing 243 heads.
2. A SpeedInc 403 LS2 with the L76 heads or a similiar LMR or Vengeance NA longblock combo.
So....which would be better for the $$, fun factor, and reliability?
I'm in a unique situation in that my car had an STS Turbo on until 2009, so it already has some FI parts (which should save me some $$), to include the following:
1. 2-bar MAP sensor and a HP Tuners 2-bar SD tune (even though it's NA).
2. Return Fuel system with Aeromotive A1000 and Mototron 60lb injectors.
3. Front bumper sectioned for a FMIC.
4. ARP Head studs.
5. Moser 9" with 4.11 gears.
Anyhow, opinions welcome.
#2
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i was in the same situation as you last year, and ended up going with a procharged 383 setup. I can tell you a N/A setup will be much much cheaper and more reliable than a blower, but in CA if you have to pass smog then FI is your only option to make decent power and stay emissions legal.
With a blower/motor combo, you'll eat up the $10k budget in no time.
With a blower/motor combo, you'll eat up the $10k budget in no time.
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i was in the same situation as you last year, and ended up going with a procharged 383 setup. I can tell you a N/A setup will be much much cheaper and more reliable than a blower, but in CA if you have to pass smog then FI is your only option to make decent power and stay emissions legal.
With a blower/motor combo, you'll eat up the $10k budget in no time.
With a blower/motor combo, you'll eat up the $10k budget in no time.
Unless you can find a good used D1SC kit you are looking at about $6k+ right off not including install.
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An added thought.... I'm in the US military and my state of residence is Texas. The car will be registered/plated in Texas, NOT California. That'll help keep the emissions BS to a minimum.
#6
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I would forge your short block with stock crank. Then piece together a procharged setup. f1r head units are actually getting fairly cheap used because everyone in x275 is moving up to the f1x. Plus you have a setup that can be used later if you decide to turn up the wick!
#7
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http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-1GJ20...-Speed-Kit.htm
Take a look at my complete D-1SC kit that I include everything needed but the spark plugs and the tune. If you want to see a copy of the installation instructions, send me an e-mail to brutespeed@gmail.com
Make sure you tell me what vehicle the installation instructions are for. Bob
Take a look at my complete D-1SC kit that I include everything needed but the spark plugs and the tune. If you want to see a copy of the installation instructions, send me an e-mail to brutespeed@gmail.com
Make sure you tell me what vehicle the installation instructions are for. Bob
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#8
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Forged rods/pistons rebuild if ls1 if block is not trashed.
Ls9 head gaskets,317 or 243 heads,ls6 or ls9 cam. New valvetrain. Hs,yt or jesel rockers.
Recreate another rear mount turbo. And keep your engine bay looking stockish.
That would come in way under 10k i think
Ls9 head gaskets,317 or 243 heads,ls6 or ls9 cam. New valvetrain. Hs,yt or jesel rockers.
Recreate another rear mount turbo. And keep your engine bay looking stockish.
That would come in way under 10k i think
#9
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Appreciate the input. Install will be done by myself, so I'm looking at parts cost only for the $10K budget. I also do my own tuning with HP Tuners.
An added thought.... I'm in the US military and my state of residence is Texas. The car will be registered/plated in Texas, NOT California. That'll help keep the emissions BS to a minimum.
An added thought.... I'm in the US military and my state of residence is Texas. The car will be registered/plated in Texas, NOT California. That'll help keep the emissions BS to a minimum.
#10
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For me, When they asked for my inspection sticker, I pointed to the license plate and said, Don't need one. Worked for me at least.
#12
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Guess I could always go something "tame", such as a forged 347 with a baby cam (LS6 comes to mind) and a D1SC. My computer will show that's it's been re-tuned though. Was leaning more to towards a 400+CI NA build, but I'm keeping my options open.
The one thing I'm not going back to is a STS. It was fun, but ground clerance sucked with that system.
BTW, I'll be at Ft. Irwin.
#14
Hey i dont really know much about camaros but i jus got orders to Fort Irwin CA too i got a 6.6l 2004 pONTIAC gto Am currently in Virginia outprocessing idk any places around fort irwin to work on my car!!Am putting a procharger in and a 150 shot as soon as i get there.am running 556bhp all motor right now.MAY BE WE CAN HELP EACH OTHER OUT THERE.
#15
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Heck if all you are looking for is 500-550 RWHP then go as Bob said, Bone stock LS with a D1 make in the 450-500 range and since you say you have most of the parts for a FI then I would say stick with a super. Tune correctly, a FI motor should last you a long time...,Not saying an N/A motor will not, but you may not like the drive ability of a 550 RWHP N/A motor vs a tamed 550 FI motor.
#17
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Besides 10 grand is going to be hard to do when you need a engine, you could find a used d1sc for 3500 range but you still will need fuel and a engine lol, a 454lsx i think is just about 10 grand, but if you plan of boost down the road get a block thats built for boost,