stngtamr29

iTrader: (1)

I know there are several people out there that say it will not work but im hard headed and had to try and i wanted to run it for a little while before I wrote anything about it so here it is. My setup is a 2000 trans am with a Heintz Racing 370ci with a F1a Procharger. We installed a Precision 66mm wastegate with a 12lb spring in the charge pipe before the fmic then we installed an AMS 1000 in the center console. We wired and plumbed it just like the AMS instuctions say and then took the radio control buttons out of the steering wheel and made black plastic block off plates for the holes. I went to Radio Shack and bought several push button switches which we put in those block off plates and wired to the AMS one for increase boost one for the AMS activation switch one and one for my line lock. After we got it off the dyno it made 704rwhp on the 11.3 psi so we took out the 12# spring and put a 7# spring in it and took it to the streets to see if all of this would work and it works exactly like you think it would I can ride around town on 7lbs of boost and at the push of a button it jumps to 12 lbs almost instantly its like having a big shot of nitrous. So then we decided to take it to the local 1/8 mile dragstrip to see how it would work there and after programing the AMS to the amout of boost we wanted on the launch and we ramped the rest in over a couple seconds we ran a 6.82 at 103 on 10lbs so we added 1lb to the AMS and ran again at 6.60 at 106.9 on 12 lbs. I have over 4000 street miles on this setup and am convinced that I will always have a boost controller on my blower car. Also we will be tuning it on 22lbs boost in the next week or so and Ill be changing the wastegate spring to 4lbs so Ill keep everyone informed. Thanks jeff

stangtrader

iTrader: (2)

Awesome to see real world results. Muscle mustangs or 5.0 magazine had a article about this many years ago. I honestly don't know why its not that popular or why people say its ineffective

stngtamr29

iTrader: (1)

I absolutely love this setup and I think with the 4lb spring it will be alot more streetable because 7lbs is still a ton of power for the street but its always nice to have a couple hundred horsepower in reserve just in case. Thanks jeff

kainedogg

iTrader: (23)

Awesome work brother. Real world testing is hard to beat.

stngtamr29

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, I just had to see if it would work for my self. thanks jeff

stevieturbo

I assume the AMS1000 needs some form of auxiliary compressed air or CO2 source to actually blow the w/g open in order to maintain the reduced boost pressure ?

In some ways I can see the appeal, but only from a point of view boost per gear or road speed kinda thing.

stngtamr29

iTrader: (1)

No not really the actual boost in the charge pipe pushes on the face of the w/g valve and pushes it open depending on what spring is in the w/g so if you have a 4lb spring in the w/g then you will have around 4lbs of boost and then when you want more you just add it to the AMS and it takes boost that you are making and adds it to the top of the w/g and on this application if you add 1 lb of boost to the AMS it adds 1 lb of boost. thanks jeff

stevieturbo

I did try briefly using my Mondo BOV just to see what would happen. Even on internal spring pressure only it was still making around 15psi.

Weird really, as the spring isnt that strong. Never bothered looking further after that though.

stngtamr29

iTrader: (1)

Well the AMS comes with two 12 volt solinoids one for boost increase and one for boost decrease that maybe why the bov didnt work. thanks jeff

stevieturbo

I wasnt blowing into the bottom port which would assist opening the valve. So wouldnt matter how many solenoids there were in that instance.

Obviously with the w/g you would be hooked up to the bottom port so you are blowing it open as normal, as well as charge pressure acting directly on the poppet valve.

Chris'stransam

iTrader: (7)

I was tons try it with a 408 with a using and a e-boost controller.

stngtamr29

iTrader: (1)

Im sure it would work the same but the biggest problem I think is people trying to use too small of a w/g. I talked to Sebastian at NLR before I started this project and he said no smaller than a 60mm and he was very helpfull and told me everything I would need he knows alot more about this setup than I ever will. thanks jeff

stevieturbo

It would be interesting to see an actual log of boost pressure to see how stable it is when venting is happening or whether it does fluctuate up/down

stngtamr29

iTrader: (1)

Well I wouldn't say fluctuate but say you have a 4lb spring when you get on it it will raise up to about 5 to 5.5lbs of actual boost but then drop down to the 4lbs in less than a second and stay there through out the pull. thanks jeff

stevieturbo

Again a datalog/graph would show a better picture. What you glance at on a gauge isnt quite the same.

I'd also think that a very large w/g would contribute to instability more so than a smaller one. Although it probably does need to vent a lot of air.

If I get bored enough some day might give it a go again.

stngtamr29

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I know it will read different but I hope to be tuning mine on 22psi this week and we will have several datalogs that I can post up. thanks jeff

Ryans99ls1

iTrader: (16)

too small of one would actually cause instability. youd get a bigger boost spike and it wouldnt settle down as fast when compared to a bigger gate.

stngtamr29

iTrader: (1)

I agree

stevieturbo

A bigger valve will have far less resolution than a small one. Although it is going to depend on airflow.
You always want to use the smallest vent possible to get the job done.

Too large could cause a huge boost drop as the valve opens before it settles. Or it could oscillate if it's too big.

trav-tech

iTrader: (1)

Is it set up to dump back in to the inlet of the sc to work like a bypass valve or does it just dump the boost out?