stock rod bolts??
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stock rod bolts??
Does everyone go arp or katech? Or are some of the decent HP cars (600-900) actually just running stock rod bolts? My short block is a LQ9 btw....
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would my 2002 lm7 5.3 have any problems over 600rwhp? because its not as strong as your l33.... also do you know any good tunning shops in california? sorry about high jack...
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#10
A 400 abc with 3.75" stroke and 5.565 is much more likely to bend /break a rod from combustion pressure than any stock stroke/6.09/6.10 Ls rotating assembly. Rpm kills rods, flexs cranks which wipes out bearings. The cap will stretch putting a side load on the bolt causing it to break. Arp bolts take that side load better. RPM IS THE#1 ROD/BOLT KILLER heavy piston make the stress much much worse. It's simple physics, the heavier the rod and piston the harder they jerk on the cap/bolts/crank multiply that times more speed and bad things can happen.
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I would say high RPM combined with less-than-great tunes have killed way more motors than straight up power. Obviously, every motor has its breaking point but if you keep the power at a loosly reasonable level, keep the RPM down, and get a spot on tune you will be surprised at how long the stock parts will last.
My stock bearings and a couple of rod bolts personally gave way to a missed 6-4 shift that ended with a 10,000+ RPM rev followed by a a spun rod bearing that ate almost 1/10" of iron off of my crank.
My stock bearings and a couple of rod bolts personally gave way to a missed 6-4 shift that ended with a 10,000+ RPM rev followed by a a spun rod bearing that ate almost 1/10" of iron off of my crank.
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I would say high RPM combined with less-than-great tunes have killed way more motors than straight up power. Obviously, every motor has its breaking point but if you keep the power at a loosly reasonable level, keep the RPM down, and get a spot on tune you will be surprised at how long the stock parts will last.
My stock bearings and a couple of rod bolts personally gave way to a missed 6-4 shift that ended with a 10,000+ RPM rev followed by a a spun rod bearing that ate almost 1/10" of iron off of my crank.
My stock bearings and a couple of rod bolts personally gave way to a missed 6-4 shift that ended with a 10,000+ RPM rev followed by a a spun rod bearing that ate almost 1/10" of iron off of my crank.